New SpeedPro Kinetic Log Splitter from TSC...

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I saved a couple from the crusher. Anyone with a machining and design background knows even a new rack and pinion, which would be by far the most expensive items that could ever fail and with the new heat treated racks probably never will, wouldn't equate the the additional cost of some other brands of kinetic splitters. These things are built so simplistically that with minor design upgrades as the cheap bearings fail and the weak links are found, a guy could keep one of these things running for years and years as a splitter to use for making wood to heat your home with. With a redesigned head plate and bearing housing, along with proper adjustments made to reduce flywheel rpm, the two I have are working awesome and anyone who wants to buy one for $1000 can get a hold of me. I'll have parts or make parts to keep mine, and whoever else wants one, running for at least another 20 years. By then I'll be done heating with wood and I will have saved myself a minimum of 5 hours a year over splitting in slow motion with hydraulics and at not much more cost up front. Super Split obviously builds a tremendous machine and it is probably true that a rising tide does raise all ships, but for these things to be melted down would have been an even bigger waste than the deisel fuel burned to bring 'em across the pond.
Great thread!
Buy local, not from wal-mart or msc.
 
Well, I hate to say it, but the one I bought for half price has now gone through three different racks. I am now in the process of trying to figure out how to reengineer this so it is reliable. I have only split 2 cord so far. Looks like I will be buying a different rack and pinion and figuring out a way to slow down the flywheels.
 
Well, I hate to say it, but the one I bought for half price has now gone through three different racks. I am now in the process of trying to figure out how to reengineer this so it is reliable. I have only split 2 cord so far. Looks like I will be buying a different rack and pinion and figuring out a way to slow down the flywheels.


keep RPMs @ 2700 or less
oil the clutch
grease the rack

enjoy.
 
Clutch

BSD,

Please share your method for oiling the clutch. You are using a lube that you use on your snow equipment IIRQ.

Thanks,

Tom
 
its called Fluid Film, just spray into the cover while the belts are spinning.
 
Well, I hate to say it, but the one I bought for half price has now gone through three different racks. I am now in the process of trying to figure out how to reengineer this so it is reliable. I have only split 2 cord so far. Looks like I will be buying a different rack and pinion and figuring out a way to slow down the flywheels.

did you break teeth or grind them down?
 
RPMS were just enough to engage the clutch. Clutch was lubricated immediately after buying the machine. The two extra replacement kits I received with the machine came with grease for the racks, which I used. It seems to me that when the machine hits a particularly difficult piece of wood the rack lifts up enough for the pinion gear to grind off the teeth on the rack. When this happens there is a loud grinding noise. I read this entire thread before I bought the machine so I knew there was risk involved. Speedco will not send me another rack so I am looking at other options. First thing to do is replace the bolt holding the cam and the welded in rod that acts as a cam stop. These were bent and replaced after the first rack. I am going to .5" rod for the cam bolt and welding in a vertical plate with a nut and bolt to act as an adjustable cam stop.
 
It's Official...I have jumped ship

It's been a busy work season. It's been daylight till dark since the days started getting shorter. I just haven't been paying attention to ArboristSite much at all till lately. First thing that caught my eye after catching up was that a couple speedpro owners had recently returned there machines for a full refund. Well that prompted a call to TSC and a talk with the manager. An hour later, he called me back and told me that I could return the machine. Knowing I was gonna have to take it to the service center to have bearings put on the split head. My fault for not taking it in sooner because I already argued with speeco about doing it myself. And probably gonna take a month plus for parts (local bearing shop said they were oddball AND metric and wanted over $100 for 4 bearings). So...after some serious debate, and reading about "lack of future parts" issues in this thread...I returned it last week. Just got the check yesterday.

I got to split for free last year so I have no regrets, it was a learning experience on how these kinetic splitters work.
Can't go back to splitting in slow motion...my SS will be here around Thanksgiving. Hopefully crow ain't half bad!!
 
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Those bearings could've been replaced with a part #HK-1012 Ina from Motion Industries for about the cost of $4.22/each. These are in stock in Chicago. Make a sleeve to put over the OD and you just got a set of $100 bearings for $16.88 plus shipping in about 3 days or less. If one sets their mind on making a Speedpro work, it will. They are not complex. Don't be afraid to snatch up one of these that are out there on the market used. Mine still has the original bearings on the head. Of course, I could forsee problems with how they were designed and made some preventative upgrades to the head piece.
Still wondering if anyone is interested in some prints on how to make a jackshaft kit for theirs. This slows down the flywheels by 50% and eliminates stripped racks forever.
 
Those bearings could've been replaced with a part #HK-1012 Ina from Motion Industries for about the cost of $4.22/each. These are in stock in Chicago. Make a sleeve to put over the OD and you just got a set of $100 bearings for $16.88 plus shipping in about 3 days or less. If one sets their mind on making a Speedpro work, it will. They are not complex. Don't be afraid to snatch up one of these that are out there on the market used. Mine still has the original bearings on the head. Of course, I could forsee problems with how they were designed and made some preventative upgrades to the head piece.
Still wondering if anyone is interested in some prints on how to make a jackshaft kit for theirs. This slows down the flywheels by 50% and eliminates stripped racks forever.

any pictures of your modifications?
 
I spoke to a guy today that has broke the teeth off of two racks. The teeth broke in the same location on both racks. He is saying that the rack isn't fully engaging. This topic has been discussed before IIRC?
I agree that buying these machines used is a good move. I just picked on up for $500.00.

The broken tooth guy was asking if the tooth could be built up and ground back. My answers is it would quickly fail.

21ACREWOODS, I am interested in your idea too.

Thanks,

Tom
 
The teeth on a rack could be built up using welding and then ground to profile. It need the right alloy filler metal. But done right it would end up stronger than the original part. This isn't the sort of repair that just any fab shop could handle, it isn't hard, just needs to be done right. Shops that can do it get paid pretty well for their work. Heavy racks and gearing are repaired this way all the time. Drive gears on cement mixers, housing swing gears on cranes, off highway transmission gears, etc. are all repaired this way all the time. Often much cheaper than a new gear.

Now, having said that...

The rack on the speeco splitter is probably not worth paying to have worked on. :msp_thumbdn:




Mr. HE:cool:
 
As has been said before, the rack is not fully engaging, at least on mine. I have bent bolts that will attest to that. These bolts are the weakest link so the rack lifts up and the pinion grinds down the teeth on the rack. The clutch doesn't have a chance to slip since the bolt gives first. I all think the play in the head doesn't help matters. I believe I read somewhere that the supersplit has 1/16" of play. Mine has 1/4". I will be modifying mine this weekend and will try to post pics if everything works. My problem now is that I do not have a good rack. Anybody know what rack from Mcmaster Carr will work? I have no clue how to figure out what the pitch and tooth count is on the one from speedco.
 
Those bearings could've been replaced with a part #HK-1012 Ina from Motion Industries for about the cost of $4.22/each. These are in stock in Chicago. Make a sleeve to put over the OD and you just got a set of $100 bearings for $16.88 plus shipping in about 3 days or less. If one sets their mind on making a Speedpro work, it will. They are not complex. Don't be afraid to snatch up one of these that are out there on the market used. Mine still has the original bearings on the head. Of course, I could forsee problems with how they were designed and made some preventative upgrades to the head piece.
Still wondering if anyone is interested in some prints on how to make a jackshaft kit for theirs. This slows down the flywheels by 50% and eliminates stripped racks forever.

I am also interested in some prints of the jackshaft kit and other mods you have done to yours.
 
Speedpro makes another big pile of splits

I just went out and split another cord, maybe more, of some maple walnut and part of it was the stump of an old hickory. Let's come up with the final engineering change............jackshaft. I don't have a lot of time to make drawings or even come up with the concept, but if there were people willing to chip in, I would make time. I still feel if we can get fly wheel rpm down to 250 and with the engine running about 2500 all issues with stripped racks will be over. I know some of you have said there is extra clearance between rack and pinion when rack is in fully engaged position. Well, the 2 I own are nice and tight. In order to get rack engaged to full you actually have to press pretty hard to get the cam follower past center because it is number for number with no clearance.

Gettin close to a flawless machine and lovin it. Maybe the best $800 investment I ever made.

Go Speedpro!!!
 
I just went out and split another cord, maybe more, of some maple walnut and part of it was the stump of an old hickory. Let's come up with the final engineering change............jackshaft. I don't have a lot of time to make drawings or even come up with the concept, but if there were people willing to chip in, I would make time. I still feel if we can get fly wheel rpm down to 250 and with the engine running about 2500 all issues with stripped racks will be over. I know some of you have said there is extra clearance between rack and pinion when rack is in fully engaged position. Well, the 2 I own are nice and tight. In order to get rack engaged to full you actually have to press pretty hard to get the cam follower past center because it is number for number with no clearance.

Gettin close to a flawless machine and lovin it. Maybe the best $800 investment I ever made.

Go Speedpro!!!

If you read back through this thread you will find many options for slowing this machine down without adding a jackshaft. The easiest I found was to call SS or DR and order a clutch pulley (make sure of engine shaft size). I believe DR wanted around $75. There drive pulley diameters were substantially smaller than that of the speedpro. This change should put you in the rpm range that you desire.

Maybe if I only had $800 invested (is that in both machines???) I would feel worse about returning my speedpro.
21ACRE welcome to the SpeedPro site and welcome to our dilemma....:bang::bang:::givebeer::censored::givebeer::bang::bang:
 
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