Meteor Cylinder Quality

[MCW]

By the look of the pics, it looks usable. Time to learn how to cut the squish Brad.

Honestly my sub $100 Chinese 372bb kit looks nicer. I can post pics in a few days when I get home.

Is that one of the kits I sent you Will? I can't remember whether I sent you one of the newer, nicer kits or only the early crappy one that hooked a ring. Well I definately know I sent you a crappy one

 

[wigglesworth]

Now that you've seen it, I'll write my "unbiased" review.

Is this kit the prettiest I've seen? No. It still has "issues" that I, as an "enthusiast" would "improve" before I slapped it on and said go. The bevels are a bit much, the intake a little misshapen, and in full disclosure, the plating in this jug doesn't look as crisp or clean as the previous one, with some honing marks that concern me. I tried to get a pic of em, but the flash over exaggerated em, so i didn't post em. Is it usable as is? Probably so, and I will find out before altering it.

Is it OEM? Absolutely not. The final "fit and finish" just isn't as nice, but it looks just as nice as every single aftermarket kit I've held in my hands,
but with a much, much nicer piston. What it is, is a viable option for someone who doesn't mind doing the fit and finish work himself, like most of us "hobby porters".

Will they make as much power as OEM? I dunno, but I'll find out.

Funny story about aftermarket cylinders. I had an 066 kit by an aftermarket manufacture named "New West". It looked to be a chrome bore, with no decomp and definetly not the prettiest thing I'd seen. Had some rather odd shaped ports too. Well, this guy I know, who won't be named, but goes by the name mastermind, didn't have a jug for the 066 buildoff I had in the spring, so I gave it to him, so he wouldn't be left out of the build.

Well, he used that "crappy" cylinder, and proceeded to kick everyone down here's hiney. That Bastard....

[video=youtube;ulNVq-5uQts]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulNVq-5uQts[/video]

 

[Rudolf73]

PTO side transfer

Hmmm casting lines look similar to the 066 cylinder I posted a few pages back

Had an old 660BB kit laying around so I thought I would post some pics

 

[thomas1]

Now that you've seen it, I'll write my "unbiased" review.

Is this kit the prettiest I've seen? No. It still has "issues" that I, as an "enthusiast" would "improve" before I slapped it on and said go. The bevels are a bit much, the intake a little misshapen, and in full disclosure, the plating in this jug doesn't look as crisp or clean as the previous one, with some honing marks that concern me. I tried to get a pic of em, but the flash over exaggerated em, so i didn't post em. Is it usable as is? Probably so, and I will find out before altering it.

Is it OEM? Absolutely not. The final "fit and finish" just isn't as nice, but it looks just as nice as every single aftermarket kit I've held in my hands,
but with a much, much nicer piston. What it is, is a viable option for someone who doesn't mind doing the fit and finish work himself, like most of us "hobby porters".

Will they make as much power as OEM? I dunno, but I'll find out.

Funny story about aftermarket cylinders. I had an 066 kit by an aftermarket manufacture named "New West". It looked to be a chrome bore, with no decomp and definetly not the prettiest thing I'd seen. Had some rather odd shaped ports too. Well, this guy I know, who won't be named, but goes by the name mastermind, didn't have a jug for the 066 buildoff I had in the spring, so I gave it to him, so he wouldn't be left out of the build.

Well, he used that "crappy" cylinder, and proceeded to kick everyone down here's hiney. That Bastard....

[video=youtube;ulNVq-5uQts]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulNVq-5uQts[/video]

You're not comparing apples to apples. Some builders can make a good saw better, some can make them great. Just because a builder charges the same amount as everyone else does not mean that you will get the same value for your money.

If someone buys a scored 372 what should they do?

Saw with trashed cylinder...........$200.00.................................$200.00
Porting.....................................$250.00.................................$250.00
New p/c...................................$300.00 OEM..........................$150.00 Aftermarket
______________________________________________________________________
Total....................................... $750.00.................................$600.00

I guess the question is, will a ported OEM cylinder run $150 better than a ported aftermarket cylinder? Never mind, Wiggs already posted that video.

 

[albert]

Are you for real? Did you see the same intake I did? What about the chamfers and casting flash? Sorry but the pics say all I need to know.

I would run the kit as recieved. Then knock it if it didn't perform close to oem. The intakes look much different between the kits. Casting flash and beveling most likely make little difference is how it runs. Some think it has to be pristine looking to make power, I have seen and run cylinders that the porting looked like it was done by a blind guy with a chisel, but ran very strong. We all have seen beautiful looking porting, bevels, no flash, that ran worse than stock. Some of these pristine looking jobs blew on their first run. These kits cost way less than oe so if they run with or very close to oe and hold up, whats the problem? The kit was sent to Brad to check out, why would he not install it as recieved and degree it and run it? Brad seems like a guy who wouldn't use a vacuum stock, so what is he wishing for? He is going to grind and reshape all the ports anyhow.

 

[lone wolf]

Hey guys my friend just brought his MS440 over it needs a cylinder and piston. The saw is not really worth putting a Stihl cylinder and piston so he tells me. So what aftermarket cylinder and piston would be recommended ?

 

[thomas1]

Hey guys my friend just brought his MS440 over it needs a cylinder and piston. The saw is not really worth putting a Stihl cylinder and piston so he tells me. So what aftermarket cylinder and piston would be recommended ?

Might as well throw it in the trash. Only way to get a decent aftermarket cylinder is to have it looked at by a competent person. If only there was such a man.....

 

[DSS]

I see no reason why this kit won't run. Is it beautiful.....no. But 99% of the people who use these won't know a transfer tunnel from a flippy cap. They buy them because they can't afford the stupid prices for OEM. Why would you expect it to be perfect?

It needs to be put on a saw, exactly the way it came out of the box, and ran. That's the only way you're ever going to prove anything. Taking a bunch of pictures and saying 'oh, that's a piece of crap and I'm not using it', doesn't help.

Or send it to Randy. Apparently he knows how to work with aftermarket stuff.

 

[edisto]

I would run the kit as recieved. Then knock it if it didn't perform close to oem. The intakes look much different between the kits. Casting flash and beveling most likely make little difference is how it runs.

Bad beveling can dramatically affect the life of the saw. The rings pop in and out of the ports, and the beveling determines how violent of an event that will be.

I never put an old jug back on, or a replacement jug on without cleaning up the ports, and doing that removes enough to require regrinding the bevel. I didn't see anything in the pics that would scare me off. Not for the difference in price anyway, but then again, I have realistic expectations

What might be an issue then is what someone could expect who was just going bolt it on and run it. I did see some mildly scary things in that regard, but it really should be run...I have seen some ugly in cylinders pulled off of saws that ran well too.

What hasn't been mentioned is the one thing that a reasonable person might expect to account for the higher cost of Meteor cylinders over other aftermarket cylinders (apart from the pretty piston), and that is the plating. That will take a lot of saws running for a long time to evaluate properly, but I seem to recall hearing that the plating is something Meteor does to these cylinders in house?

Makes sense to me to pay a little extra for better plating.

 

[parrisw]

Is that one of the kits I sent you Will? I can't remember whether I sent you one of the newer, nicer kits or only the early crappy one that hooked a ring. Well I definately know I sent you a crappy one

Yes LOL, its a ring hooker with a tilted ex port.

 

[edisto]

Yes LOL, its a ring hooker with a tilted ex port.

Knew a girl like that once...

 

[Mastermind]

Well using Brads pics I will do a side by side comparison. That may take a little while, watch for it.......

I must have some really messed up eyes because I see a hell of a difference.

Now I really see an agenda. :msp_unsure:

 

[SawTroll]

Well using Brads pics I will do a side by side comparison. That may take a little while, watch for it.......

I must have some really messed up eyes because I see a hell of a difference.

Now I really see an agenda. :msp_unsure:

Even if the kits are bought at about the same time, they may be from different production lots...

 

[Mastermind]

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/216916.htm#post3997167

 

[blsnelling]

Well using Brads pics I will do a side by side comparison. That may take a little while, watch for it.......

I must have some really messed up eyes because I see a hell of a difference.

Now I really see an agenda. :msp_unsure:

What is this agenda is you keep referring to? The only agenda I have is to see the quality of these AM kits a LOT better than they are.

Are you guys satisfied with these kits? Perhapst you're not looking at it from my perspective. If you're just looking for the cheapest way to get a saw back in the woods, and are not concerned about quality and performance, then maybe. But that's not the kind of builds I'm doing.

My perception is that someone spending $250 for a port job, doesn't want to invest that in a sub par cylinder. Also, I'm not putting my name and reputation on them. Why would I choose to port an AM cylinder that takes a lot more work to make it right, and for the same money? It just doesn't make sense to me to use these on saw being built for performance, by a paying customer.

 

[Mastermind]

What is this agenda is you keep referring to? The only agenda I have is to see the quality of these AM kits a LOT better than they are.

Are you guys satisfied with these kits? Perhapst you're not looking at it from my perspective. If you're just looking for the cheapest way to get a saw back in the woods, and are not concerned about quality and performance, then maybe. But that's not the kind of builds I'm doing.

My perception is that someone spending $250 for a port job, doesn't want to invest that in a sub par cylinder. Also, I'm not putting my name and reputation on them. Why would I choose to port an AM cylinder that takes a lot more work to make it right, and for the same money? It just doesn't make sense to me to use these on saw being built for performance, by a paying customer.

Brad you know I think the world of you. You are a true friend of mine. But for you to say that you see no improvement at all is hogwash and you are either blind or have an ulterior motive.

 

[8433jeff]

The improvement, to my eyes, which have been checked in the last month, is there, as well as some flaws.

I recently received PN 1127 020 1210 in the mail from a member here who stated (to the best of my memory, which ain't as good as my eyes), "OEM, bought for a customer that bought a different saw instead". Well, I might have too, at OEM prices. Its OEM, as stated, but it can't be run like it is. Well, maybe it could be. When I get a saw for it. But it won't be.

It looks fine, but as someone said, there will be some things done to it before it goes on a saw. No biggie, but I think it needs to be done. Done the same with many of mine, current and former, Big Name or also ran, on a teardown/repair, thats what we do here; tinker, and think its better because we did. Sometimes its plainly evident, sometimes, not so much, but we'll never know the other side after we tinker, because its not the same.

To say that OEM is wildly better because its OEM, in my opinion, is wrong.

It needs to be run as is. If you don't want to or can't test it, thats fine, pass it along if its OK with the supplier.

Most engine rebuilds are considered successful if the motor lasts half again as long. Most strive for again as long, at least 75% as long, but half is acceptable to most. I have heard that from more than one shop, from more than one mechanic, and in more than one field, from small engines to off road diesels. Most will tell you it is not do only to the quality of parts used, but the quality of the work done, and the attention paid to the components coming from the original motor. If a certain shop says that all we do is remove and replace, the price and their reputation will reflect that, as well as the shop that tries to get by on the cheap.

Both will have certain customers only once, and their lifetime ones also, as long as they are in business.

Choose wisely.

 

[Mastermind]

The improvement, to my eyes, which have been checked in the last month, is there, as well as some flaws.

I recently received PN 1127 020 1210 in the mail from a member here who stated (to the best of my memory, which ain't as good as my eyes), "OEM, bought for a customer that bought a different saw instead". Well, I might have too, at OEM prices. Its OEM, as stated, but it can't be run like it is. Well, maybe it could be. When I get a saw for it. But it won't be.

It looks fine, but as someone said, there will be some things done to it before it goes on a saw. No biggie, but I think it needs to be done. Done the same with many of mine, current and former, Big Name or also ran, on a teardown/repair, thats what we do here; tinker, and think its better because we did. Sometimes its plainly evident, sometimes, not so much, but we'll never know the other side after we tinker, because its not the same.

To say that OEM is wildly better because its OEM, in my opinion, is wrong.

It needs to be run as is. If you don't want to or can't test it, thats fine, pass it along if its OK with the supplier.

Most engine rebuilds are considered successful if the motor lasts half again as long. Most strive for again as long, at least 75% as long, but half is acceptable to most. I have heard that from more than one shop, from more than one mechanic, and in more than one field, from small engines to off road diesels. Most will tell you it is not do only to the quality of parts used, but the quality of the work done, and the attention paid to the components coming from the original motor. If a certain shop says that all we do is remove and replace, the price and their reputation will reflect that, as well as the shop that tries to get by on the cheap.

Both will have certain customers only once, and their lifetime ones also, as long as they are in business.

Choose wisely.

Good post Jeff. :msp_thumbup:

 

[Genius.]

Hey guys my friend just brought his MS440 over it needs a cylinder and piston. The saw is not really worth putting a Stihl cylinder and piston so he tells me. So what aftermarket cylinder and piston would be recommended ?

I see you can get Forster cylinders for like $40, I'd use one of those:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Genius.]

Might as well throw it in the trash. Only way to get a decent aftermarket cylinder is to have it looked at by a competent person. If only there was such a man.....

That'd be me buddy:msp_thumbup: