Your Super XL and XL-12 stories and pics

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Those saws are what they are....Very nostalgic for me as an XL-12 was one of the first saws i ever ran as a kid.

I picked one up at a yard sale a year or so ago ($10), and got it up and running with a line and a carb kit. I still take that saw and cut a truck load of wood with it once in awhile, because it does the job just fine.... Not fast or smooth, but it gets it done and it makes me smile.

I don't have a current pic, but here it is the day I bought "Old blue".............

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Here's one I passed on to another AS member.

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Circa 1970

The E-ber seller listed it as "not pretty, but a solid saw" - Most of the paint was gone, but it was really clean inside.

I liked it, used it, but ended up with too many other, newer saws.

Figured someone else could use it.

luck,greg
 
Saw a brand new old stock one on C'list a few weeks back.
Guy wanted 2 bills and change for it.
figured I'd post it in the "seen it on c'list " thread for whoever might be looking.
I finished looking at the page I was reading , looked back and the ad was gone.
 
Mutual admiration club????

The OP wanted opinions and I will probaly get hung out to dry by the Homlite XL and SXL mutual admiration club .:D:D . Here goes nothing . I am not trying to step on any toes either.

I have had many of these saws over the years and have never been impressed with any one of them. What is the big deal about these saws anyway ???? They are so incredibly average, don't cut all that great just so so and is nothing to brag about, most of them won't run right or perform the way a good saw should work. If you come across one that comes close to working good it is a rare find because most of them suffer from bad bearings, sloppy cranks, crank seal problems, and bad carburation along with ignition problems. Most of these saws are not worth the time and parts to fix because there are so many of them around and as a rule don't have much of a resale value.

I will give these old Homelite XL some credit. Considering the abuse some of them go through they will manage to still start and run to some degree. They are also good for first time saw tinkerers

I probaly stepped on a few toes but this is just my opinion of the XL. Sorry if it is a bit on the negative side.

I will confess I have some in my junk pile and a couple on display that do run but they have a clearing bow bar and a regular bow bar on them and are basically conversation pieces or for when I get a wild hair to cut some wood with a bow.

I was going to mention that Mark but I decided to let it go. I just thought it would be best to not come down too hard on the saw.

Chain, get your hands on a GOOD running 360 Pro Homelite. I guarentee you will throw rocks at that XL and see what I am talking about. The 360 and the XL are about the same vintage and engine displacement. The 360 was a very advanced saw for it's time and still rivels many of todays saws with it's speed , torque and anti-vib mounts . I can get one of these saws up and running good with no problems compared to the XL's. The 360 is a much more complicated saw to work on but is worth it to me

I have no idea what a new 360 cost back in the day, nor do I have a clue about the XL . I am assuming the 360 was alot more because of the pro features and the XL was more of a consumer type saw.

If you look at today's e-bay prices both saws bring about the same money in average condition . I would buy the 360 before the XL.

Wow did you ever miss the mark. These saws INTRODUCED the "average" (meaning they set the standard for a lightweight, reliable, powerful 'smaller' saw in an era when chainsaws were BIG, HEAVY, and SLOW) back in 1963. Nobody, especially the Euros had ANYTHING comparable at that time. The North American manufactures got competing (and often quite 'similar' looking) models out in a hurry. This was the first saw with the "new" Oregon 3/8" pitch chain and the Tillotson HS carburetor.

"Don't cut that great just so so and nothing to brag about"? Really? No they're not a 346XP/550XP/whateverwhizbangwondersaw, but they WERE designed decades earlier, and DO cut just fine. Without the XL-12/SXL series, there would be no lightweight wondersaws. The saws you've come in contact with were probably clapped out, abused saws that don't owe anybody anything................having put hundreds of cords of wood in the trucks. The 'faults' you describe are ALL issues that would plague ANY saw that had been ran for decades, with indifferent maintenance (common for these saws). I used nothing but a Super XL-12 (3.55ci, but with the single reed manifold and no AO pump) to cut many truckloads of wood. Got a nice '70s SXL-AO after that and cut many more truckloads of wood with it. Legions of others have done the same. They're reliable, and pull the chain around the bar and through the wood just fine. There's a reason why this design was built/sold for over 30 years.

The 360 is NOT a design from the same time period as the XL-12 series. It also wasn't "advanced" compared to its competition (unlike the XL-12 when it was released). Yes the SXL-AO and XL-12 were still being produced when the 360 (with "pro" written on it) was introduced, but were now lower price-point saws that were still being sold and produced because they had a stellar reputation as a reliable workhorse. These saws weren't receiving any more 'updates' or 'advancements' (meaning no R&D time/money), as they design was around 15 years old at the time of the release of the 360 and had more than paid for itself. Only minor changes to things like ignition systems, and some changes to lower production costs (such as the cheaper manual oiler plunger setup on the 1980's and later saws) were done. Of course the SXL-AO saws outlived the 360 by a wide margin, being produced through 1994 or so. The 360 had been dead for close to 15 years by then, and had been replaced by another 'advanced model' (the 410) which also fell by the wayside while the SXL-AO continued on...

My experiences with the 360 don't mirror yours. I'd consider it "average" at best (no way would a 360 ever make me wanna "throw rocks" at my XL-12 series saws). They have more RPM's to be sure, but I find them lacking in torque. I much prefer my XL-12 series saws, 10-series Macs (especially my 70cc variants which weigh no more than a 360), Poulan 306A, and Poulan 3400 to a 360 by a LONG shot. All of those saws can be had cheaply in my local area EXCEPT the 360, which always seems to be listed for stupid prices..............probably because they say "pro" on 'em. The cinderblock PM610 series Macs are in the same boat with those 360's in my area for some reason. No thanks...

I've never experienced the fuel boiling issue that sometimes happens with these saws (and other saws with fuel tanks in close proximity to the crankcase, such as the SX-925, Poulan 361, Pioneer 1200, etc). Read/heard other people's accounts of it however. I have experienced it with an SXL-925.

Nobody here was saying these saws were superior performers over any and all chainsaws. They were just relating their positive experiences with these models. Why does that garner the "mutual admiration club" crapola? Your negative opinions of these saws seems to come from handling roached old warhorses...

How bout that!

Must have been the base model. :laugh:

The XL-12 was always the "base model" of the series. Manual oiler only, smaller displacement (3.3ci), and single reed (except for late XL-12's that had the pyramid reed setup). In 1965 when Homelite released the XL-Automatic and Super XL-Automatic (as an 'updated model' to the XL-12) they did sell them with the manual oiler 'blockoff' deal in the rear handle. Not sure why. In one of the early IPL's I have there's a part number for the 'kit' of parts needed to add the manual oiler to these saws. I wish we could do that with modern AO-only saws. The majority of the 1967 or so and later Super XL-Automatic and SXL-AO labeled saws had both manual and auto oilers from the factory.
 
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Here's my first XL-12. It's now a "Super" as it has a P/C from a later SXL-AO. Still has the single flat reed intake. It has cut a lot of wood in my hands. It was an ebay score from an AS member (who I didn't know at the time). Was a 'birthday present' for me from my lovely and understanding wife. Since then I've owned several saws in the series.
 
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Thanks for the informative post Eccentric. I am in agreement with you on many points but not all. In it's hey day Homelite was without a doubt a leader to be followed .It is sad to see what the name Homelite has evolved into what it is today cheap plastic throw away saws . Comments like you pointed out have been made in the past about how the design of the Xl was copied by so other saw manufactures. Compared to running something like a Homelite ZIP it is easy to see why the XL line was copied so much. If Homelite hadn't of done it I am sure another manufacturer would have came up that same design sooner or later.

Today was the day for some of my Homelites to be the star performers in the wood pile and that included that blue XL. My main goal was to see if that 925 that has been giving me fits finally had all the little quirks fixed that has been driving me nuts so I could possible use as a part time milling saw because I am partial to manual oiler for that task . It finally passed and I am happy with it.

In addition to the 925 I decided to get that blue XL up and running again so I can make some hands on comments instead of relying on my memory concerning this 360/ XL rock throwing issue I inadvertly started. It didn't take a whole lot to get the old blue XL going and I actually had good 16 in. bar and full chisel chain to go on it which is about the set-up on the 360's only they have 20 in. In all fairness the XL is not in as good as shape as my 360's. I must say it did ok cutting wise got right with it mid point in the cut. I am still not convinced that it is as good or better than a 360 even if the engine was in better shape compression wise. There is just no comparision between a piston ported 360 engine verses the reed valve XL. This weight issue that popped up isn't an issue to me. Both saws are about the same to me, granted the XL is lighter but difference really isn't all that much and if the 360 had a 16in. bar on it it would be almost dead even. I was very impressed with a 360 from the day one I tried it out, nice smooth cutting saw with plenty of power and torque. Maybe I got ahold of couple of oldie but goodie 360's and mine are an expection rather than the rule.

Here are a few pics of my XL's. Intially the blue XL came with that big bow which is why I bought it. The engine is tired so I wanted something with a little more snap to it. I finally found that red XL that works good but still have to tinker with it some more and put the finishing touches on the bow.

After going to the trouble of getting the blue XL running again and cutting with a straight blade I am going to do more work on it because it isn't in too bad of shape and looks decent and did alright today cutting and starting when it needed to start. I have a set of rings and a new 16in Homelite bar. With a better piston and cylinder it might actually be a good runner even though it is a solid bodied saw.
 
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So you're comparing a clapped out 3.3ci single reed version of this saw series (the 'weekest' version) against a strong running 3.5ci 360? Of course it's going to come up short.:rolleyes:

Why not compare your 360 to a strong running SXL-AO? That's a 3.55ci four petal pyramid reed saw (the 'strongest' of this series)? That saw is closer in power output, displacement, and time frame to the 360 than a 1960's XL-12 (that you just call an "XL"). You said you've "never been impressed by any of them" (so the SXL-AO should also be included here). Should I go find a clapped out 360 (maybe with a leaking intake boot) and compare my best running SXL-AO to it??? Come on man...:dizzy:

Model Profile: XL-12

Model Profile: 360

Model Profile: SUPER XL AUTO

I don't want to split hairs about which saw model is 'better'. That wasn't my intention when I posted. I was just addressing your ludicrous statements (paraphrasing here) that a 360 is worlds better than an XL-12/SXL series saw (to where an owner of them would want to "throw rocks" at their saw after running a 360), and that saws of that series are 'mediocre', not deserving of praise ("What's the big deal with these saws anyway???"), etc. I wasn't trying to "convince" you that the XL-12/SXL saws were "as good as or better than a 360". Just was correcting a fallacy. Enjoy your 360's. Keep running your SXL-AO and XL-12 saws.

By the way..............being a piston port engine instead of a reed valve engine doesn't make it more advanced, better, stronger, faster, or able to turn more RPM's. Piston ported 2-strokes (and rotary valve 2-strokes) have been around LONGER than reed valve 2-strokes. Look at MX bike, GP bike, and Kart 2-troke engines.....................the CURRENT and FASTEST ones. What induction setup do they use?

The ONLY high performance racing 2-stroke engines that I know of which don't use reed valves (aside from hotsaws built from piston port production saws) are the rotary valved 30,000+ RPM RC engines. There are also racing 1/2A model aircraft engines that use reed valves (Cox), and they turn well over 20,000 RPM. Can't recall any piston port racing RC engines. Only piston port RC engines that you'll find now are some of the giant scale engines that use current production chainsaw P/C's (and that's what's available). I love my piston port 10-series Macs, especially my SP-81. I also love me a Homelite 650/750 (have worked on and ran friend's saws, but don't own one yet). I also love my reed valve saws. My reed valve SXL-925W will run right with my SP-81 in bigger wood (and has a bit more torque but a shade less revs than the Mac). A healthy running reed valve Poulan 5200/5400/8500 will run right with a stock 064 and close to an 066 or MS660..............and a reed valve Poulan Pro 655BP will flat embarrass that MS660. Stock for stock.
 
first saw I ever ran was a Mc Culloch mac 10, the next saw was a Homelight something something 150a (you'd think i could remember) a few years later that homie became mine and I cut with it for 10 or so years, sometimes with a sachs or a homie 330a, my folks are still holding on to all those saws including a few stihls and one junker husky,

couple of years ago friend of mine gave me an xl-12 as something to dink around with... few months later he was found... with a rope... anyway I cleaned it up and got it running real nice, vibrates pretty bad and its noisy as Hel but its fun to mess around with and it reminds me of him and learning to cut wood, so I hang on to it despite having many newer,faster, bigger, quieter, lighter, more comfortable saws to play with.

And considering that some of these old xl-12s are pushing 60 years old and still run good (remember they are 2-stokes) yer bound to find a few with bad crank seals, and shotty bearing, but find any other saw that old that still runs with just a little cleanin and a new fuel line...

Friend of mine used to run a self loader, he carried his trusty blue xl-12 for bumping knots and bucking the occasional tree length mess... even though the owner of the company bought a new 044 every few years...
 
My first XL when I was about seven years old was like this one.:msp_smile:

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This one is Randymac's now. He did not get the Bow bar.;)

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I have one more of these if I can find the pic.
 
Thanks for the informative post Eccentric. I am in agreement with you on many points but not all. In it's hey day Homelite was without a doubt a leader to be followed .It is sad to see what the name Homelite has evolved into what it is today cheap plastic throw away saws . Comments like you pointed out have been made in the past about how the design of the Xl was copied by so other saw manufactures. Compared to running something like a Homelite ZIP it is easy to see why the XL line was copied so much. If Homelite hadn't of done it I am sure another manufacturer would have came up that same design sooner or later.

Today was the day for some of my Homelites to be the star performers in the wood pile and that included that blue XL. My main goal was to see if that 925 that has been giving me fits finally had all the little quirks fixed that has been driving me nuts so I could possible use as a part time milling saw because I am partial to manual oiler for that task . It finally passed and I am happy with it.

In addition to the 925 I decided to get that blue XL up and running again so I can make some hands on comments instead of relying on my memory concerning this 360/ XL rock throwing issue I inadvertly started. It didn't take a whole lot to get the old blue XL going and I actually had good 16 in. bar and full chisel chain to go on it which is about the set-up on the 360's only they have 20 in. In all fairness the XL is not in as good as shape as my 360's. I must say it did ok cutting wise got right with it mid point in the cut. I am still not convinced that it is as good or better than a 360 even if the engine was in better shape compression wise. There is just no comparision between a piston ported 360 engine verses the reed valve XL. This weight issue that popped up isn't an issue to me. Both saws are about the same to me, granted the XL is lighter but difference really isn't all that much and if the 360 had a 16in. bar on it it would be almost dead even. I was very impressed with a 360 from the day one I tried it out, nice smooth cutting saw with plenty of power and torque. Maybe I got ahold of couple of oldie but goodie 360's and mine are an expection rather than the rule.

Here are a few pics of my XL's. Intially the blue XL came with that big bow which is why I bought it. The engine is tired so I wanted something with a little more snap to it. I finally found that red XL that works good but still have to tinker with it some more and put the finishing touches on the bow.

After going to the trouble of getting the blue XL running again and cutting with a straight blade I am going to do more work on it because it isn't in too bad of shape and looks decent and did alright today cutting and starting when it needed to start. I have a set of rings and a new 16in Homelite bar. With a better piston and cylinder it might actually be a good runner even though it is a solid bodied saw.

Do what Aaron said and buy a good pyramid reed SXLAO. Blue or red. Most of the blue ones that I have seen just have the auto oilers with the manual spot plugged with a flat head screw. Then most (if not all) of the red ones that I have seen have the auto with the manual override. The SXL was better with more "features" than the XL-12 when it came out. SXL had a little better muffler (not by much), had the auto oiler, had 4 more CCs, had a ball bearing on the clutch side opposed to just two rollers, and had the oil plug in a lot more convenient spot. They also seem to be just a little bit better quality over the 12. Don't get me wrong though, I tend to use a XL-12 more over a SXL probably because I like the sound a little more and I like controlling how much oil I am using.
When I go out to cut I will mostly take my 455 Rancher and a SXL or XL-12. Trust me the 455 is fast as hell through soft wood but through that thick hardwood the SXL or 12 has way more torque and does not bog as much even though the 12 has 3ccs less than the 455 and is 45 years older. Those old 60s and 70s Homelites were built for one thing...to last forever as long as they were tuned right, cleaned, oiled, greased, and not beat on too bad. Hell most of my old Homelite's start faster than my new ones!
You said that your engine on yours is not in the best shape on that XL-12 of yours. Then take the bow off your red SXL that you have there and put that bar with the chisel chain on it. Take that up against your 360. Guarantee that they will be very close in power and torque. If they were both brand new out of the box with brand new chains and bars I would say that the SXL would be better by a nose. But it is hard to tell now since both saws are old and engine wear and tear varies.
The 360s were also anti vibe (If I remember right). So that means more rubber and plastic parts to wear out. Especially the boot. Not as bad as the boots on the 330 tho. But it still has a boot which cracks and tears overtime especially with this new crappy gas.
 
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My first XL when I was about seven years old was like this one.:msp_smile:

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This one is Randymac's now. He did not get the Bow bar.;)

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I have one more of these if I can find the pic.
That toy Homelite is probably the only saw that you own that has a bar and chain instead of a bow. Right?#:msp_biggrin:
 
Do what Aaron said and buy a good pyramid reed SXLAO. Blue or red. Most of the blue ones that I have seen just have the auto oilers with the manual spot plugged with a flat head screw. Then most (if not all) of the red ones that I have seen have the auto with the manual override. The SXL was better with more "features" than the XL-12 when it came out. SXL had a little better muffler (not by much), had the auto oiler, had 4 more CCs, and had the oil plug in a lot more convenient spot. They also seem to be just a little bit better quality over the 12. Don't get me wrong though, I tend to use a XL-12 more over a SXL probably because I like the sound a little more and I like controlling how much oil I am using.
When I go out to cut I will mostly take my 455 Rancher and a SXL or XL-12. Trust me the 455 is fast as hell through soft wood but through that thick hardwood the SXL or 12 has way more torque and does not bog as much even though the 12 has 3ccs less than the 455 and is 45 years older. Those old 60s and 70s Homelites were built for one thing...to last forever as long as they were tuned right, cleaned, oiled, greased, and not beat on too bad. Hell most of my old Homelite's start faster than my new ones!
You said that your engine on yours is not in the best shape on that XL-12 of yours. Then take the bow off your red SXL that you have there and put that bar with the chisel chain on it. Take that up against your 360. Guarantee that they will be very close in power and torque. If they were both brand new out of the box with brand new chains and bars I would say that the SXL would be better by a nose. But it is hard to tell now since both saws are old and engine wear and tear varies.
The 360s were also anti vibe (If I remember right). So that means more rubber and plastic parts to wear out. Especially the boot. Not as bad as the boots on the 330 tho. But it still has a boot which cracks and tears overtime especially with this new crappy gas.

I am going to take that advice. I honestly didn't know there was that much of a difference in the reed valves mostly because I never paid all that much attention to these saws. I actually have one of those blue supers in my pile because after reading Eccentric's post I decided to do a little more homework and pulled the carb out of it and seen for myself what he was talking about. Unfortunely the saw is junk and won't run because the piston and cylinder are roached but the carb tested good .

I am going to take that bow off and put that bar and chisel chain from the blue one and put it on that red super xl and see how the two saws compare. I recently got that SXL and it is in good shape just need to get carb quirks out of it.. It has a Zama carb not the Tilly HS and it looks like it has the four reed pyramid from looking at the intake manifold. After finding out about the differences in these XL saws I know now that it wasn't a fair comparision using that older model blue XL 12. i guess I am guilty as charged. What is my punishment ??? Shunning:msp_biggrin::msp_biggrin:

The 360 does has a nice anti-vib design that I really like. Which is why I like the saw so much. This is important to me because like so many others in the business of cutting trees I suffer from the white fingers afflication that comes from running vibrating saws in real cold weather over a long period of time. It doesn't take much cold weather to trigger it these day's.
 
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I am going to take that advice. I honestly didn't know there was that much of a difference in the reed valves mostly because I never paid all that much attention to these saws. I actually have one of those blue supers in my pile because after reading Eccentric's post I decided to do a little more homework and pulled the carb out of it and seen for myself what he was talking about. Unfortunely the saw is junk and won't run because the piston and cylinder are roached but the carb tested good .

I am going to take that bow off and put that bar and chisel chain from the blue one and put it on that red super xl and see how the two saws compare. I recently got that SXL and it is in good shape just need to get carb quirks out of it.. It has a Zama carb not the Tilly HS and it looks like it has the four reed pyramid from looking at the intake manifold. After finding out about the differences in these XL saws I know now that it wasn't a fair comparision using that older model blue XL 12. i guess I am guilty as charged. What is my punishment ??? Shunning:msp_biggrin::msp_biggrin:

The 360 does has a nice anti-vib design that I really like. Which is why I like the saw so much. This is important to me because like so many others in the business of cutting trees I suffer from the white fingers afflication that comes from running vibrating saws in real cold weather over a long period of time. It doesn't take much cold weather to trigger it these day's.
No punishment. All is good. As long as you know the difference. You might beable to put that carb from the blue one on that red one. Only if the red one has the large gas line opening that goes into the box and tank. I know the old blue ones took that big gas line. And yeah those Super XLs, XL-12s, Super EZs were the worst for roached pistons. They were so easy to run lean for people who did not know how to tune em. They tuned em till they sounded real good, then they wondered later why they stopped running. I usually try to look at the piston's on em before I buy em especially on those models.
And don't get me wrong. The 360 was a good saw. It just kinda pisses me and others off when others are quick to judge.
If you did not know you can pop out that reed assembly. The 4 reed one that is. The 1 reed kinda looks like a choke or throttle plate down in there. I don't think that you can take out the 1 reed assembly very easy.
 
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So what is the difference between an XL12 and a C-51. I juts picked up two C-51s and the XL12s look very similar.
 
Having owned about 12 or so XL-12's, SXL-AO's, these are still some of the greatest saws to ever come out of Port Chester. I also have a 360 and its a good saw also, IMHO. Which is my favorite? Anyone care to guess?

Which ever one I have buried in a big piece of oak with a good sharp chain.

:rock:
 
The four reed comes out easily enough. I tucked that carb and reed assembly away in a safe place for later use. The one reed is a different story. The air box / handle stock have to come off to get that out. The only way I am going to get that involved is if I intend to tear down the saw down for a top end rebuild.
 
That toy Homelite is probably the only saw that you own that has a bar and chain instead of a bow. Right?#:msp_biggrin:

I have one.:msp_biggrin:

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Running Homelites in 1977, SXL, S-EZ, SXL-925. They were one or
two years old at the time.

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This was my grandfather's farm saw. It's 40 years old and still in service. If I wanted a new saw I'd walk in and buy one. This one flat works.
 
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