Pioneer chainsaws

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Look for a scrap of aluminum in the bottom. Kinda trapasoid shape. Formerly held in with epoxy glue in my PP 655.:msp_angry:

I looked for a metal piece, but no luck. I did find a whole bunch of rubber pieces. Must have been a daiphram. My local saw shop mechanic said that part is integrated into the case seal and that he would have to crack the case and that I was looking at about 20 hrs of shop time. :buttkick: So, for the last five hrs, I have been disassembling my saw. I have it all taken down except for the fly wheel. Seems to be common for those to be stuck on very well after 40 yrs. I think I will let the shop pull the fly wheel and crack the case, but atleast I think I cut my shop bill down signifacantly. Hope he doesn't throw a wrench at my head for that. Might be a good opportunity to get a fresh coat of paint on it with no parts in the way:msp_wink:
 
I looked for a metal piece, but no luck. I did find a whole bunch of rubber pieces. Must have been a daiphram. My local saw shop mechanic said that part is integrated into the case seal and that he would have to crack the case and that I was looking at about 20 hrs of shop time. :buttkick: So, for the last five hrs, I have been disassembling my saw. I have it all taken down except for the fly wheel. Seems to be common for those to be stuck on very well after 40 yrs. I think I will let the shop pull the fly wheel and crack the case, but atleast I think I cut my shop bill down signifacantly. Hope he doesn't throw a wrench at my head for that. Might be a good opportunity to get a fresh coat of paint on it with no parts in the way:msp_wink:

Search some more on here. It can be done without splitting the case.
 
Search some more on here. It can be done without splitting the case.

Yup.

But, OTOH, I'd be much more comfortable if the little plate was held in by two or three #6 screws or drive rivits. That way, if it leaked, it wouldn't be the total disaster it is when it falls plumb out.:bang:

My PP655 has low comp. (125 psi) so it will get a complete rebuild when I ever get to it.
 
Carl, I think your best bet is to take a piece into an automotive paint supply store and have them match it. There is an auto paint store near me that can actually put a urethane in a rattle can. There is a button on the bottom of the can you press in and it releases the catalyst. Shake like heck. You have about 24 hrs. to use the can.

Urethane paint is the best for saws in my opinion.

Just found this link and will be going there this PM to check them out.

Sherwin-Williams Automotive Finishes - Automotive Paints
 
450 Restore Project

Hey guys its been a while since my last post but I still haven't anywhere to get parts haha but i went ahead and completed my saw. and here it is.
 
Picked up a P-25 parts/project saw from fellow member GrizzlyAdams86 yesterday. It's pretty rough, and will likely get used for parts for my 1073 or whatever comes along in the future. It did come with a well used but repairable roller tip 16" bar though. I'll try to get some pics later this evening or tomorrow, gotta go out and plow the driveway now.
 
The Pioneer portion of last night's pickup. Fresh barn find ...

GEDC0986.jpg


GEDC0985.jpg


Needs a recoil handle and probably a few bits. Anyone have a suggested source?


Chris (cbfarmall) will need to post his Mercury-Disston 2-man saw from the haul ...
 
Last edited:
The Pioneer portion of last night's pickup. Fresh barn find ...

GEDC0986.jpg


GEDC0985.jpg


Needs a recoil handle and probably a few bits. Anyone have a suggested source?


Chris (cbfarmall) will need to post his Mercury-Disston 2-man saw from the haul ...

Try Chainsawr Ted. They seem to have quite a few Pioneer parts.
Any brands you didn't get covered last night?
 
Try Chainsawr Ted. They seem to have quite a few Pioneer parts.
Any brands you didn't get covered last night?

Thanks Tim ... I'll limp on over there .... :D

Let's see there was a Mac Super 44A and a Sears with Autosharp that I passed on.

He says there are more in the barn/shed, so we'll see.
 

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