Pioneer chainsaws

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Ran this mongrel out the port, only because the muffler vibrated off after a few seconds of running.

Normally, you can not get one to start without some backpressure. One stud wasn't enuff to hold the muffler on.

To top it off, fuel is removing my cheap rattle can paint.:bang:

A top coat of clear engine enamel may help this. I usually then bake parts on the dashboard of my truck ... yep, really.

:givebeer:
 
A top coat of clear engine enamel may help this. I usually then bake parts on the dashboard of my truck ... yep, really.

:givebeer:

Krylon "Crystal Clear" Indoor/Outdoor Protective enamel clear coat is a fairly rugged solution as well....at least in my limited use on some 066 plastics.

And the dashboard oven is the way to go fer sure!

:cheers:
 
A top coat of clear engine enamel may help this. I usually then bake parts on the dashboard of my truck ... yep, really.

:givebeer:

No truck, I'll have to use the Corvair.

Used the dash on my '85 Chebby p.u. to bake the cosmo. out of a swedish mauser stock. Long time ago.


I should have known to put clear over it.



Borrowed the muffler, air filter and clutch cover from P-41 #2 and ran him this evening. Comp. is too low to do any real work. The 24" hardnose didn't help a bit.

Going to send him back from wence he came.
 
Ed: If you have a NOS ring for a P-41 handy, measure the width for me and let me know. The pair I put in this carcass measured .0805" wide by my dial caliper. They have nearly squat for cylinder wall tension.

It may be the problem as it only pumps 100 as it stands now.

I was hoping the dynamic comp. would be enuff for him to run.

Thanks.

Carl.

I think I do, I'll check in a bit.
 
Hi everybody
New to the site, lots of great info on the pioneer saws. Have recently got 2 farmsaws and a p42hp that I picked up off the bay. By reading past posts I was able to get the 1st farmsaw up and running with just a clean up and carb adjustment. Farmsaw #2 was a little more work and needed some parts but that's taken care of. And the p42 was missing the west coast style air filter and some other parts. Just wanted to introduce myself and thanks for all the info it's helped a lot.
 
Hi everybody
New to the site, lots of great info on the pioneer saws. Have recently got 2 farmsaws and a p42hp that I picked up off the bay. By reading past posts I was able to get the 1st farmsaw up and running with just a clean up and carb adjustment. Farmsaw #2 was a little more work and needed some parts but that's taken care of. And the p42 was missing the west coast style air filter and some other parts. Just wanted to introduce myself and thanks for all the info it's helped a lot.

Welcome to the site. Thanks for stopping by and introducing yourself. Hang around for a while and you will end up owning many more saws.
 
Hi everybody
New to the site, lots of great info on the pioneer saws. Have recently got 2 farmsaws and a p42hp that I picked up off the bay. By reading past posts I was able to get the 1st farmsaw up and running with just a clean up and carb adjustment. Farmsaw #2 was a little more work and needed some parts but that's taken care of. And the p42 was missing the west coast style air filter and some other parts. Just wanted to introduce myself and thanks for all the info it's helped a lot.

Welcome to AS!
 
P42hp walbro sdc carb adjust

Ok all the Pioneer experts

Here's my problem, I have a p42 with a walbro sdc carb runs ok but when it idles down stalls out. Now I know that you usually adjust the high and low about one full turn out off seat, but this saw has a west coast filter setup and wanted to know if the idle should be turned out more than a full turn, since there is more air being sucked into the carb.
 
Ok all the Pioneer experts

Here's my problem, I have a p42 with a walbro sdc carb runs ok but when it idles down stalls out. Now I know that you usually adjust the high and low about one full turn out off seat, but this saw has a west coast filter setup and wanted to know if the idle should be turned out more than a full turn, since there is more air being sucked into the carb.

Each carb and saw is a different situation, as long as the engine idles at the correct speed and the engine is not running lean at WOT then for anyone to say that the adjustment needles and idle air needs to be set just so is not correct. It needs to be set where the engine needs it to be set. The approximate settings of 1 to 1 1/2 turns out are just starting points and need refining to suit the saw you are working on. If the carb will not tune in correctly between 3/4 - 1 1/2 turns out then there is a mechanical problem somewhere. The carb may need a cleaning and kit by the sounds of it, check the fuel line for integrity and a new fuel filter for peace of mind.
 
Fuel lines are new and went through the carb cleaning and kit. Seems to idle and stay running well when turned out but it's more like 2 to 2 1/2 turns. Just seemed odd to be open that much to me and wanted an expert opinion. I couldn't find a thread about setting up a carb with the west coast style air filter, and figured I'd ask.
 
Carbs are strange things, by having more air pulled through them they can and will pass more fuel through them even with the adjustment screws set at one turn out. This can bee seen when muffler modding some modern saws. If your carb supplies enough fuel to the engine set at 2-2.5 turns out it might just be masking an air leak, possibly around the crank seals of through one of the gaskets after the carb, the reed block gaskets are a known area as well as the carb to block gasket for air leaks.
 
Thanks for the diagnosis Pioneerguy. I'll be sure to check out the reed block and gaskets for air leaks when I have the time, probably sometime next week. I've been meaning to inspect the p/c too, curious to see if its ported as some western and hp models where and others not.
 
Hi everybody
New to the site, lots of great info on the pioneer saws. Have recently got 2 farmsaws and a p42hp that I picked up off the bay. By reading past posts I was able to get the 1st farmsaw up and running with just a clean up and carb adjustment. Farmsaw #2 was a little more work and needed some parts but that's taken care of. And the p42 was missing the west coast style air filter and some other parts. Just wanted to introduce myself and thanks for all the info it's helped a lot.

New member rep for you. Welcome!
 
Which piston for a PP-655 with boost port?

Mo.Jim was over this afternoon and we investigated my PP-655 weather or not it had a boost port. Well, turns out it does. So that got me started on the rebuild.

The cylinder has a little damage but nothing we can't live with. A new piston w/rings and a cylinder clean up is the next step. Along with the fuel/oil tank divider replacement. D&$%# thing fell out.

I find several listed on evilbay for P-61, P-62 and PP-655 but which one?

Has the notch in skirt on one side.

Poulan 655 Pioneer 62 P62 Piston and Rings Chainsaw STBX782 | eBay

Price seems reasonable.

Poulan 655 Pioneer 62 P62 Piston and Rings Chainsaw STBX782 | eBay

Those two P-41's were a good warm up for this.....................................................................................
 
The ones from customchainsawparts are correct for the boost port saws, make sure you have boost port piston or you will need to find the shorter wristpin because his don't come with the wristpin.

We noticed right away how short that puppy was. Everything else was in good shape save for the cylinder wall and piston skirt.


Had to break out the Rockford impact driver :msp_w00t: to get the crankcase screws broke loose. Went straight to the BFH. Yikes!
 
Gaskets for 655?

Is there a place to buy a set of gaskets for a 655? Or, at least the crankcase gasket?


Yup, I make my own all the time but, getting the right thickness/material can be a crap shoot. Seems I never get a perfect fit.
 

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