marking rounds for bucking
- Thread starter origionalrebel
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Been cutting fire wood since I was a TINY TIKE . Dad had a buzz saw set up and anchored down good sowe built the buzz pile around it. Dad could set the piece on the saw and cut it pretty close to the 16 inch size we used then. We sold off all the farm equipment in the late 60's so cutting wood became a chain saw affair. I had devloped what I called measure eye sight. Devloped it even more when I started bow hunting so I can guestmate from 16 inches to hundreds of yards pretty close.
If I had to be so anal that every chunk had to be with in a thousands of an inch of each other I would just buy pellets and sort them to burn or say to h e l l with it and use natural gas.
I think some people just have to much time on ther hands.
Don't ya just hate it when you spent the time to mark the cut on the logs and the log rolls so you have to remark it?
Al
Log rolling is one of the reasons I never "mark" one. I can't eyeball and stay in the ball park so I carry a 16" piece of white 1/4" plumbing pipe. Measure with it, spot the cut by eye and put the chainsaw to work. Probably takes a bit longer than laying out many feet of marks and then sawing but I'm not in a rush.
Harry K
BrokenToys
ArboristSite Operative
Interesting, Harry, but it seems that you can get awfully close with the chain saw bar. I cut all rounds about 18" long and use the bar length as a guide each time I cut. Start at the largest end of the big log and cut them all the same length. Save the leftover cookie for a campfire.
More important is to get the opposite ends of the round as parallel as possible so that you create a cylinder. Your log splitter really appreciates that effort. This gets tricky when cutting crotch wood Y's. I always noodle cut through the crotch and then square the ends because these are going to be really tough to split. Keep the scree pieces for smokin' meat or campfires.
origionalrebel
ArboristSite Operative
:Eye:
....and you were doing so good everything made sense thereafter, really.
But then you had to go and blow it, effectively stating to everyone, (OCD Peeps too), that if it isn't stacked straight plumb level and not less than 1% variance in length for each piece and said piece better have two cut ends that are also at perfect right angles and parallel-
ITS WRONG.
Fifelaker
Addicted to ArboristSite
Get a red ryder for Christmas???
It's one of those M.C. Escher deals going on there
Just when we were talking of mental illness, too.
Milkweed Seed
ArboristSite Operative
Stanley 25' tape. And a can of John Deere green spray paint. 22" 44" 66" 88" 110" 132" 154". Etc....
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On thing for sure, if you rely on a tree-cutting/trimming company to supply you with rounds for firewood, don't expect them to ever cut the round the correct length. You will be lucky to get half of your rounds from a tree-cutting/trimming company that are cut the same length and square at both ends. These guys have never heard of a square-cut log that's 18" long.
They love creating blobs of campfire wood, none of which can be stacked.:msp_razz:
They love creating blobs of campfire wood, none of which can be stacked.:msp_razz:
jwilly
ArboristSite Operative
Spencer tape, upside down fineline marking paint. Much easier than a stick or using the bar and you don't have to carry the saw, a stick and a piece of chalk. Mark as many logs as you can reach and cut away. If the logs are piled cut the bottom ones first or your marks will be covered with chips.
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
You need to carry the saw or the wood isn't getting cut.
It's a measuring tool also, so I think I'll pass on dragging more stuff to the woods to only get lost, or cost time in setting down & picking up more things and walking up & down the tree more than just the once that is needed if just using the saw.
Same thing if cutting up a truck load - most times stuff gets crosspiled to some extent, much easier to just turn the saw sideways for a second when needed then set it down & go get measuring tools & all that...
It's a measuring tool also, so I think I'll pass on dragging more stuff to the woods to only get lost, or cost time in setting down & picking up more things and walking up & down the tree more than just the once that is needed if just using the saw.
Same thing if cutting up a truck load - most times stuff gets crosspiled to some extent, much easier to just turn the saw sideways for a second when needed then set it down & go get measuring tools & all that...
jwilly
ArboristSite Operative
I just set the saw down, hook the tape and measure off the pieces, pick up the saw and cut 12 or 16 blocks and repeat. I've cut 100's of cords and found this to be the best method for me. When I was younger and more flexible I would use an 18" stick, cut a block, bend over measure with the stick, cut and repeat. I found it easier to mark a bunch, cut a bunch, less bending and straightening up.
These days I have my trucker bring the wood from our landing to my house and stack it. I mark, cut, split, load it on the truck and move it closer to the house. I'd love to cut it next to where I stack it but I need to hide chips, bark and other mess from the missus.
These days I have my trucker bring the wood from our landing to my house and stack it. I mark, cut, split, load it on the truck and move it closer to the house. I'd love to cut it next to where I stack it but I need to hide chips, bark and other mess from the missus.
Cause he's a dork
I, and im sure many others,,want to see all your firewood,,and the extreme consistency you refer to.....:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
I like to drill holes in the log and drive pegs in where i will cut it, Works perfect every time.
theres one in every crowd..................................:hmm3grin2orange:
annnnnddddd,, I have this chunk of green treated 2x2, marked at 20 in, and the stick is 28in..lay on log,and short myself a bit to one side, 20"!!! carrys easily,,never rots,,dont ever have to buy anything..IT,,was a castoff!! :hmm3grin2orange:
SierraWoodsman
ArboristSite Guru
When working by myself I just eyeball it and can keep it within 1/2 inch of the 16" length I want. I've
found the not all my cutting buddies have the ability to do this so I bought a "Mingo Marker" when they went on sale last year at Christmas. Now once the tree is de-limbed
I just walk the length of the tree with the mingo and were off to the races. Once marked 2 or more guys can work on the tree and always
get the lengths just right. It's a lot quicker than a marking stick or tape measure.
The Mingo Log Marker - YouTube
found the not all my cutting buddies have the ability to do this so I bought a "Mingo Marker" when they went on sale last year at Christmas. Now once the tree is de-limbed
I just walk the length of the tree with the mingo and were off to the races. Once marked 2 or more guys can work on the tree and always
get the lengths just right. It's a lot quicker than a marking stick or tape measure.
The Mingo Log Marker - YouTube
origionalrebel
ArboristSite Operative
I'm jus keepin muh eye on this thread, Fyfe. jus curious to see what comes up next. we got spencers, mingos, stanleys, pipes, sticks, paint, chalk, crayons.......what else can there be???????
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
I'm jus keepin muh eye on this thread, Fyfe. jus curious to see what comes up next. we got spencers, mingos, stanleys, pipes, sticks, paint, chalk, crayons.......what else can there be???????
dial calipers :msp_biggrin:
zogger
Tree Freak
I still think the stihl laser system is the most thought out and practical. You only have to measure one time, adjust the laser to fit that distance, then go cut.
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