marking rounds for bucking

[Wood Doctor]

Gasp!

I still think the stihl laser system is the most thought out and practical. You only have to measure one time, adjust the laser to fit that distance, then go cut.

No doubt about it, the recently-launched Stihl laser system for measuring the length of firewood logs that must then be split is the most remarkable innovation for all firewood suppliers today. Stihl has yet to indicate what the price will be, but we could be talking less than $500. Some say that it will pay for itself in less than 90 years but others say that payback could be less than 50 years, depending on numerous factors.

Husqvarna and Dolmar are supposedly looking into other prototypes. :msp_rolleyes:

 

[CTYank]

I still think the stihl laser system is the most thought out and practical. You only have to measure one time, adjust the laser to fit that distance, then go cut.

Again, the beam is diagonal. Many ways to introduce error there, including the orientation of the laser and the shape of the wood. Not exactly a pin-point beam either. IOW, pseudo-precision, send us some money.

Get a Spencer logging tape. :msp_rolleyes:

 

[zogger]

Again, the beam is diagonal. Many ways to introduce error there, including the orientation of the laser and the shape of the wood. Not exactly a pin-point beam either. IOW, pseudo-precision, send us some money.

Get a Spencer logging tape. :msp_rolleyes:

Well, right now for bucking the main log and larger branches, I use a 2 buck chinee tape measure I found at a prawn shoppe...smaller stuff I eyeball with a quick check with the bar on the saw once in awhile. I cut shorts at all the crooked pieces though.

man, I was electro cutting d00d tonight, had both the mighty JAWSAW running and a little action with the oregon battsaw....boss got me that jawsaw for a hoot, it has actually turned out to be practical dealing with deadfall branches. Except for the extension cord, it cuts OK, and you physically can not hit dirt unless you go way outta your way to do that.

That big lightning struck oak keeps shedding big branches, so every day I buck some more up. Taking the teeny stuff that is dry, making a fire, then burning privet sapling tops, because they are going to seed now.. Making fiorwood out of the thicker privet. That stuff is relentless and grows like weeds..err wait, it IS a weed. Burns OK though, you find some big ones the main stem can get around 8-10 inches or so, plenty good enough to burn. I take one inch and above, so getting bunches. just making piles now, I just can't find any pallets around town anymore, they are all scooped up. annoying. Seems like up to around last year I could go get a truckload anytime I wanted now, now, nada. They went from being no one wanted them to now they are all recylced and reused I guess, even the crappy ones. Only ones people will give up are fallen apart rotten ones.

Gonna have to break down and actually *buy* some used ones I guess, they are getting about 3 bucks apiece for them....and this is also one of the reasons I started elevating the pallets, getting them off the ground with bricks or RxR ties..so they don't rot and will last longer.

What is the deal with the logging tape, it just grabs hold of the wood better so you can run it out?

Storms little magnetic dealie she made seems pretty cool as well for a fast measuing device.

A serious made twostroke jaw saw would be slick...it grabs any branch anywhere and holds it while you cut. Ya, I know they are late night TV infomercial goofy and cheap plastic, but still a cool idea.

 

[XSKIER]

On stihl.de the 2 in 1 laser is €91.50. Not really too exorbitant in price if you're in production, or saving thousands a year on propane. When I get an MS 261 C-M, if the 2 in 1 laser ever becomes available domestically, I would buy one.

 

[turnkey4099]

Again, the beam is diagonal. Many ways to introduce error there, including the orientation of the laser and the shape of the wood. Not exactly a pin-point beam either. IOW, pseudo-precision, send us some money.

Get a Spencer logging tape. :msp_rolleyes:

That was my impression of it also. In addition, tipping the saw a bit off a right angle to the log will change the mark location.

Harry K

 

[zogger]

That was my impression of it also. In addition, tipping the saw a bit off a right angle to the log will change the mark location.

Harry K

I think you could get it close pretty consistently with some practice. Certainly as good as just eyeballing it or doing the mark on the bar, eyeball spot on trunk, and flip around to cut method.

I am sure stihl ran the prototypes pretty well in real world conditions before they offered it for sale over yonder. If it didn't work, they would have circular filed that project. They aren't exactly rookies at wood cutting over there.

And I don't understand why diagonal makes it weird to use, the saw sits flat on top of whatever you are cutting, adjust so the laser light kisses the cut off end, slide saw straight back and down and commence cutting. It wouldn't matter if it was 5 feet diameter or one foot, saw is still sitting there flat, and the laser is a straight line. You just run it to the top, that's all, it needs to be elevated and shoot diagonally in order to work, flat straight out to the side won't work at all. That's why it is mounted up on the handle bar.

Picture shows it here

Crosscutting aid | STIHL | Stihl, Viking, chain saws, brushcutters, hedge trimmers, clearing saws, high-pressure cleaners, lawn mowers, trimmers

 

[origionalrebel]

!!!!!!!!BRAINSTORM!!!!!!!!!!!!
get a spencer, some dayglo, upsidedown marking paint and hire someone to mark it for you!
easiest way yet!

 

[jthornton]

I put a laser on my paintball gun and calibrated it to be 18" off center at waist high. I aim the laser at the end or the last mark and fire away... fun, accurate and messy. :hmm3grin2orange:

JT

 

[Wood Doctor]

A Few Tips

The Stihl laser system is fascinating, no doubt, but I have no idea how it could ever pay for itself, especially if you can get to within an inch or so using the bar as a ruler. With a laser guide, you might save one minute in 60 cuts, and if you cut all the logs the same length (I try to), most of the time you are still going to have a cookie left at the end.

A few last tips:
(1) Try to cut a cylinder with parallel ends. Log splitters love these.
(2) If the logs cut to length are huge, noodle cut them into halves or even quarters. Your back will love you and so will your log splitter.
(3) Keep a small wedge handy (such as in your back pocket) and use it immediately at the top of the saw kerf when it starts to close together and around the bar. A pinched bar will slow you down faster than anything else.
(4) If you run into a hidden nail or spike and cut it in half, change the chain. It's pointless to force the saw along with a dull chain and generate a lot of talcum powder.
(5) Never hit the ground with the bar. The chain will dull immediately.
(6) If the bar becomes pinched in a big log, never try to yank it out with the handles alone. I have seen more tank housings and shock mounts lost this way than you can imagine. Item 4 (above) will usually prevent all of this. Many times one or two pounded-in wedges alone will free up the bar because it supplies an enormous amount of leverage.
(7) If you mark a long log all the way along its length, look for those points that are above the ground. Cut those first after inserting wooden support scraps below them. Then you can safely cut all the way through in one pass and reduce the remaining long, heavy mass for subsequent cuts. Continue inserting supports underneath as you move along.

Finally, don't try to work fast, and keep your cool. Enjoy yourself and wait until the job is finished before knocking down cold beers. That beer will then taste a whole lot better.

 

[DSS]

:monkey:

 

[Blazin]

:monkey:

I see your bet and raise your :monkey: to :monkey: :monkey: :monkey:

 

[bucknfeller]

I measure with calipers, mark with a scribe, and cut with an axe.

 

[RiverRocket]

For All You Wood Geeks.....Here's Your Leader..:hmm3grin2orange:
How To Cut Firewood With The Woodcutter's Friend - YouTube

 

[stihl023/5]

Now if only a laser would burn a mark.:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[MrWhoopee]

if you cut all the logs the same length (I try to), most of the time you are still going to have a cookie left at the end.

This is why I mark the entire tree starting from the butt. This leaves just a little drop from the top of the tree as waste. Anybody use a Humboldt cut to eliminate that tapered cut on the first round?

 

[zogger]

This is why I mark the entire tree starting from the butt. This leaves just a little drop from the top of the tree as waste. Anybody use a Humboldt cut to eliminate that tapered cut on the first round?

sometimes but usually just a regular birdsbeak looking thing.

Just measure that first bucking cut from the long end, or, cut square and bust the cookie up, it'll burn.

 

[turnkey4099]

sometimes but usually just a regular birdsbeak looking thing.

Just measure that first bucking cut from the long end, or, cut square and bust the cookie up, it'll burn.

Yep. I square the log and add the triangle pieces to my 'ugly' stack. That sstuff goes through the stove first off in the season.

I have enough trouble making a decent felling cut without running a saw upside down.

Harry K

 

[Blazin]

I measure with calipers, mark with a scribe, and cut with an axe.

Plus you're banned, I'd say it's not a productive method....scratch that one off the list

 

[zogger]

Yep. I square the log and add the triangle pieces to my 'ugly' stack. That sstuff goes through the stove first off in the season.

I have enough trouble making a decent felling cut without running a saw upside down.

Harry K

I just run a tape out and make some quick touches with whatever little saw I have there at the time. 16 inch, red stud marks on the tape, easy peasey. It's really easy that way. Only takes a minute or two, small amount of time, to make the big pieces, then go back to cutting. small stuff that doesn't need splitting is all fast eyeball, I don't care about those that much, they fit in the stack OK.

If a log rolls..hmmm..only time that happens to me mostly is when I roll it myself. cut down most of the way, roll log chunk over, finish the cuts, if the dang thing is huge and laying on the ground directly.

I am a nerd, not a-skeered of electronics/computers, etc. I like how things got better over the years with electronics. More complex, yes, but they do more as well, and are more, not less, reliable. grew up with an electronics shop in the house, my dad, that was his hobby and business. modern electronics are way more robust andf capable for the most part, no comparison really.

. You can still have as simple as ya want with any tool or job, all the way to running a crosscut to do firewooding...I just also liked the idea of a built in adjustable laser marker on the saw, perhaps all internal inside the handle assembly. I like "no points" setups for spark, I like more modern ignition systems. had both, small engines/cars, now saws...I know all the pros and cons, I prefer no points.

I don't like the idea of a laser marker on the saw enough to drop 150 bucks on the stihl model, but I like the idea in general terms. I liked it enough that before stihl announced theirs, before I knew about it, I tried to shop a laser marker idea to oregon as an aftermarket add-on....no dice there, but coincidently in the same time frame stihl thought it was worth an effort and got their design out.

I don't like that other example up above with the bolt on rod and laser, one or the other, both, nope, silly.

 

[origionalrebel]

now if we can figure out how to get them right of way trimmers to measure up what they cut........shore would make scrounged wood easier to deal with.