New Chain Sharpener

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danl

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Oct 8, 2002
Messages
532
Location
missouri
Hey guys, I am interested in trying this tool, and have heard lots about a arboristsite.com discount, but can't find a code anywhere. Can anyone help me?

When I bought mine, I just called and the Phil the owner answered and I asked him if I could have the arborisite discount and he said sure, I gave him my ccard and I had the timberline in 3 days. All the way from Idaho to Missouri.
very fast shipping
 
nstueve

nstueve

Makita Freak!
Joined
Oct 22, 2010
Messages
4,772
Location
Iowa
I'd be interested to see and use one in person. I just can't believe the hype for this sharpener. I'm sure it works great but when I look around locally on CL I can usually find a tecomec or oregon 511a sharpener for $150. Even if I couldn't find a name brand one, the chinese NT editions work pretty dang good too. And for the few times I would ever need to sharpen in the field, I could use a husky guide ($20 for a flat file, handle, 2 round files, and the jig). They also would have done well to make a 10* angle guide for all the guys that do chainsaw milling. I can see those guys buying one of these to field sharpen their chains a TON! It would also alleviate the need to have 1-2 dozen ripping chains for a days worth of milling, and would also save chainsaw millers the time to swap loops. Some of the chainsaw mills are a huge pain to swap chains out on... Just my 2 cents.

And if I missed something in the middle of this 30+ page thread I'm sorry but I don't feel then need to invest in that much reading time...

cheers
nate

PS: i'm not saying it's not a good system but the price seems a little exorbitant... $50-$75 maybe... Plus adding the other angle guides pushes this pocket guide closer to the price of a good used grinder.

Just 2 cents from a guy who doesn't know nothin'.... :msp_mellow:
 
Philbert

Philbert

Chainsaw Enthusiast
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Nov 25, 2006
Messages
19,719
Location
Minnesota
I'd be interested to see and use one in person.

Me too!

I'm happy with the current methods I have for sharpening chains, so I am not likely to buy one. But I am interested in trying one due to all of the positive comments here on A.S. I keep hoping that someone will bring one to a GTG so I can see / try one in person.

Philbert
 
Homelite410

Homelite410

Hack with a CNC Mill
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
5,210
Location
Halfway between Hedgerow and HEAVYFUEL.
One of these make the timberline sharpener work nice.:)
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half_full

half_full

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
775
Location
Williamston, MI
Please post your results either way!

It does not have to be an either/or situation: you might use the Timberline to true up your cutters between hand filing (like some guys do with a grinder).

Philbert

This is exactly what I do. If I have a full day of cutting planned I use the timberline the day/evening prior. Then in the field I hand sharpen. For rocked chain I use the HF grinder first, then the dremel to shape the lower part of the tooth, then the timberline to finish. Seems like alot but it works for me.

When I first got my timberline I used it exclusively. Then I found I can get a good cut with a touch up via hand file after every tank of fuel.
 
rwoods

rwoods

Addicted to ArboristSite
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
7,196
Location
Tennessee
I'd be interested to see and use one in person. I just can't believe the hype for this sharpener. I'm sure it works great but when I look around locally on CL I can usually find a tecomec or oregon 511a sharpener for $150. Even if I couldn't find a name brand one, the chinese NT editions work pretty dang good too. And for the few times I would ever need to sharpen in the field, I could use a husky guide ($20 for a flat file, handle, 2 round files, and the jig). They also would have done well to make a 10* angle guide for all the guys that do chainsaw milling. I can see those guys buying one of these to field sharpen their chains a TON! It would also alleviate the need to have 1-2 dozen ripping chains for a days worth of milling, and would also save chainsaw millers the time to swap loops. Some of the chainsaw mills are a huge pain to swap chains out on... Just my 2 cents.

And if I missed something in the middle of this 30+ page thread I'm sorry but I don't feel then need to invest in that much reading time...

cheers
nate

PS: i'm not saying it's not a good system but the price seems a little exorbitant... $50-$75 maybe... Plus adding the other angle guides pushes this pocket guide closer to the price of a good used grinder.

Just 2 cents from a guy who doesn't know nothin'.... :msp_mellow:

Not to dissuade you from trying one, but in fairness to the Timberline most of us need a little time fooling with one to get it right. As with all new to us things, some folks get a little more enthusiastic than warranted. Nevertheless, it is a great tool. Whether or not it is the tool for you is another question. If you have a good grinder and you are proficient at hand filing and you either have extra chains or don't mind filing rocked chains or don't do in field sharpening then I would keep my $ in my pocket. If you don't have a grinder and don't have good hand filing skills, I would highly recommend one as they do work well, they are cheaper than a name brand grinder and you can field sharpen. Between these extremes, it is pure personal preference in my book.

Now what I would really like is a less expensive square filing jig.

Ron
 
half_full

half_full

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
775
Location
Williamston, MI
I wonder what sort of timber youd be cutting to feel the need to sharpen at each refill

I cut all types of local wood species for firewood. About 15-20 face cord per year.
not a sharpening, just a touch up. 1 or 2 strokes of the file per tooth at each fill up is much easier than bringing back a dull chain.
 
BP021

BP021

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Aug 8, 2013
Messages
21
Location
NE Ohio
Please post your results either way!

It does not have to be an either/or situation: you might use the Timberline to true up your cutters between hand filing (like some guys do with a grinder).

Philbert

I had 2 Oregon chains 20" & 2 Stihl 24" chains that were bought together. I took 1 of each brand & had sharpened by grinder & the other 2 I used my Timberline. I was shocked that the Timberline chains held up very good vs the ground chains. I also had 2 old beat up chains with very little life left to them & had same thing done, the ground chain won by far. Had I more patience then maybe I could've done a better job.

What I found to be best way tho, is to sharpen the chain more frequently, & it stays as sharp as if it were new. And it takes just a few minutes. By far this tool is the easiest way I've found to sharpen chains.
 
srb08

srb08

Doesn't play well with others
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
3,066
Location
Mid Mo
I had 2 Oregon chains 20" & 2 Stihl 24" chains that were bought together. I took 1 of each brand & had sharpened by grinder & the other 2 I used my Timberline. I was shocked that the Timberline chains held up very good vs the ground chains. I also had 2 old beat up chains with very little life left to them & had same thing done, the ground chain won by far. Had I more patience then maybe I could've done a better job.

What I found to be best way tho, is to sharpen the chain more frequently, & it stays as sharp as if it were new. And it takes just a few minutes. By far this tool is the easiest way I've found to sharpen chains.

With beat up chains, I've found that multiple passes works best.
 

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