Case Bearing Installation

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"Now Jon is heating the PTO side at the bar pad first."

Why there? why not at the bearing area?

must read post first.....kick self in azz
 
Last edited:
"Now Jon is heating the PTO side at the bar pad first."

Why there? why not at the bearing area?

must read post first.....kick self in azz
There is more mass in that area. If you tried to heat the bearing race 1st, the bar pad will act as a heat sink and pull heat away from the intended area.
 
Thank you Agrarian, you saved me a bunch of frustration with this post. I used a 1/2 inch black pipe floor flange. It loosely screwed on to my 262's brass worm gear. Then I pulled it off with a harmonic balancer puller. Two 1/4 inch carriage bolts thru the pipe flange's floor mount holes nutted to the puller. Pop goes the weasel.

I won't take credit but glad to help with what I learned here. Guess I remembered the iron pipe size wrong though - sorry about that. Great alternate approach with the floor flange. As I remember now, I had to grind the coupler so that the gear puller had a flat surface to grab on to.
 
I won't take credit but glad to help with what I learned here. Guess I remembered the iron pipe size wrong though - sorry about that. Great alternate approach with the floor flange. As I remember now, I had to grind the coupler so that the gear puller had a flat surface to grab on to.

Just knowing that black pipe fittings would fit saved me from frustration. I bought a coupler first and broke a cheap two jaw gear puller on it then I went back for the flange. Luckily the hardware store is 5 minutes from my shop. Too bad it took me an hour to find my harmonic puller.

Cold and snow Saturday, so I'm gonna try the heat gun on a 262 reassembly that's getting bearings. The crankshaft and bearings are in the freezer. I spent too much on this saw.

Went to NAPA for skf bearings and they started to charge me $47 for a pair. When I told them I would go to the Husqvarna dealer for the bearings NAPA dropped the price to $30. Gotta live haggling!
 
Just knowing that black pipe fittings would fit saved me from frustration. I bought a coupler first and broke a cheap two jaw gear puller on it then I went back for the flange. Luckily the hardware store is 5 minutes from my shop. Too bad it took me an hour to find my harmonic puller.

Cold and snow Saturday, so I'm gonna try the heat gun on a 262 reassembly that's getting bearings. The crankshaft and bearings are in the freezer. I spent too much on this saw.

Went to NAPA for skf bearings and they started to charge me $47 for a pair. When I told them I would go to the Husqvarna dealer for the bearings NAPA dropped the price to $30. Gotta love haggling!
 
Just knowing that black pipe fittings would fit saved me from frustration. I bought a coupler first and broke a cheap two jaw gear puller on it then I went back for the flange. Luckily the hardware store is 5 minutes from my shop. Too bad it took me an hour to find my harmonic puller.

Cold and snow Saturday, so I'm gonna try the heat gun on a 262 reassembly that's getting bearings. The crankshaft and bearings are in the freezer. I spent too much on this saw.

Went to NAPA for skf bearings and they started to charge me $47 for a pair. When I told them I would go to the Husqvarna dealer for the bearings NAPA dropped the price to $30. Gotta live haggling!

Napa is still making $20. off your purchase. Do you have an industrial bearing and seal distributor in your local area? Motion bearing charges around $5. for C3 rated chainsaw bearings.
 
Do you ever reuse the crank bearings after a bottom end split, Randy?
On the huskys its a no brainer to put new bearings in IMO. Those damn Stihl pto side bearings is a different story they cost so much...
Im rebuilding a 064 for myself. The bearings have plastic cages and still had the inner shield till i popped them out. Its a high hour saw, but the bearings feel and sound smooth as silk. Im debating on reusing them.....
 
Napa is still making $20. off your purchase. Do you have an industrial bearing and seal distributor in your local area? Motion bearing charges around $5. for C3 rated chainsaw bearings.

Jerry,
Any chance of a PN for those "motion" bearings. I have a buddy that works for motion industries and out of curiosity I'm gonna price them from him.
A
 
Do you ever reuse the crank bearings after a bottom end split, Randy?
On the huskys its a no brainer to put new bearings in IMO. Those damn Stihl pto side bearings is a different story they cost so much...
Im rebuilding a 064 for myself. The bearings have plastic cages and still had the inner shield till i popped them out. Its a high hour saw, but the bearings feel and sound smooth as silk. Im debating on reusing them.....

I can't answer for Randy, but I rarely ever re-use any bearings, even when it's the $55 proprietary PTO side bearing for 066/660. It's just not worth it. I'm doing my 084 soon and I'll be shelling out $65 for the PTO side bearing on that one...
Jerry,
Any chance of a PN for those "motion" bearings. I have a buddy that works for motion industries and out of curiosity I'm gonna price them from him.
A
If you go into any bearing house and ask for a 6203 bearing that's C-3 rated, they'll provide you with what Jerry is referring to. They might ask if you want shielded or unshielded, or rubber sealed.
 
I see JJ got back to answer before I did, course he got it right , those 6203 bearings are very common and don`t cost anywhere near what is being paid for them through secondary distributors. I realize they need to make a profit on what they sell but I would rather go to the folks that mostly only handle bearings.
 
I see JJ got back to answer before I did, course he got it right , those 6203 bearings are very common and don`t cost anywhere near what is being paid for them through secondary distributors. I realize they need to make a profit on what they sell but I would rather go to the folks that mostly only handle bearings.

I bought a lot of 100 NIB Nachi 6203 bearings recently from a national bearing house- $1.75 each delivered. Made in Japan, not Taiwan, Indonesia, or Turkey...
 
I bought a lot of 100 NIB Nachi 6203 bearings recently from a national bearing house- $1.75 each delivered. Made in Japan, not Taiwan, Indonesia, or Turkey...

The bigger the ,lot size, the better the price. Those Niachi bearings are holding up fine in many of the saws I have built using them, quality seems first rate.
 
Wanna send me 4-5 those bearings.....lol

I can do that.
The bigger the ,lot size, the better the price. Those Niachi bearings are holding up fine in many of the saws I have built using them, quality seems first rate.

These days I prefer Nachi or SNR. I use SKF if I can't find the former brands. SNR in the odd sizes (6003, 7004) are the smoothest rolling bearings out of the box I've ever seen. I've gotten more service life in my own saws with the Nachi bearings in 6202 and 6203 than any other.
 
I guess I'll quit being a tight ass and just buy the new pto bearing from stihl. I do hate to build a saw off used bearings, but I hate giving 60.00 for a darn bearing that should cost 5.00!
 
Stihl has had a hold on those proprietary bearings for a long while but the Chineese are now making them and they don`t care about Stihl `s proprietary properties, they are out there on the market and show up on eBay sometimes.
 
Stihl has had a hold on those proprietary bearings for a long while but the Chineese are now making them and they don`t care about Stihl `s proprietary properties, they are out there on the market and show up on eBay sometimes.

I found a set, I'm kinda scared of them.....
I told myself I'd rather have used OEM bearings than new China bearings, but I guess I'll just bite the bullet and pay the $$$.
 
I found a set, I'm kinda scared of them.....
I told myself I'd rather have used OEM bearings than new China bearings, but I guess I'll just bite the bullet and pay the $$$.

Pass on the Chinamen bearings...used OEM is better than bearings assembled by schoolchildren.
 

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