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tickbitintn

tickbitintn

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piston trashed... cyl looks pretty clean, did you clean it up or was that how it was ???

it got pretty warm around that ring land on the ex side anyway, detonation, low quality fuel probably the culprit....

pre-ign usually creates a hot spot and burns a hole in piston... (right ? or do i have that backwards)
 
Mastermind

Mastermind

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piston trashed... cyl looks pretty clean, did you clean it up or was that how it was ???

it got pretty warm around that ring land on the ex side anyway, detonation, low quality fuel probably the culprit....

pre-ign usually creates a hot spot and burns a hole in piston... (right ? or do i have that backwards)

I'd cleaned up the jug already, was about to cut the squish and thought I'd take some pics.

Yeah pre-ignition in a two-stroke is very destructive....this is just a case of ****** fuel.
 
fearofpavement

fearofpavement

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detonation gets my vote. In water cooled engines it makes noise (pinging) but in air cooled engines it can pack them in. So since ignition timing doesn't change much on chainsaws, the "bad gas" votes would be correct as well since octane is primarily an "anti-knock" index.
 

WHSH

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I assume that some one did it on purpose so I could have income.;) I just rebuild as saw that had that but 5x worse. Just under the decomp there was a crator in the piston, along with the pocked squish band and piston crown. The saw was modded before (not by me) with a pop up and base cut, it looked like compression north of 200psi In my case I assumed a very lean condition, crap low octane e10 fuel and the decomp rough edges caused detonation a due to the wicked high temps. I may be wrong thats my guess
 
glock37

glock37

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ignition advanced to far with bad fuel

how is the coil edge jap ? if no points and no plate ?

Randy didn't my 041 super have a piston with those marks on it but the cyl was ok

and it has a plate and points ,timing is important with todays fuel
 
sachsmo

sachsmo

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Definitely detonation.

The cause could be many things, but the pitting shows the truth.

I really doubt if it was from running too high octane, higher octane fuels burn slower, and that is a fact.

I have a 143 that looks just like that, it will still hurt you if you aren't real serious pulling it over.
 
UpOnTheHill

UpOnTheHill

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Either cavatation or water turning to steam (flashing). That's my guess anyway. I'm an hvac guy and that same pitting can be caused by oxygen being released from water because system pressures aren't high enough. I'd say water in the fuel!
 
Plan-b

Plan-b

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Bringing this to the top as it is good tech.

The cause is pre-ignition. The reason it happens on the exhaust side, is because piston temperature is highest due to the flow of exhaust across the piston. So now it has a "hot spot" and a fresh charge of air and fuel, what happens is the hot spot ignites the charge over itself causing multiple flame fronts to collide in that isolated area. This is what takes out those little craters. If you Google cavitation damage you will see similar damage.

I find that water in the fuel has more of a cleaning effect on the combustion chamber... as the damage is not as localized.
 
anlrolfe

anlrolfe

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Can't believe the bearings are good. Had and old moped that I rebuilt for my daughter that did the same exact thing when the cage on the crank end rod bearing self destructed. What really $u@#&d was that I replaced everything else in the bottom end. When you talk about "bad gas", ethanol with water soluble in the mix can accumulate in the case and rust/pit the crank races. Looking back at the moped rebuild, there was rust on the crank. I suspect the pitting either galled the races or prevented the rod bearing from spinning properly. Exuberant installation/removal force on the piston pin can damage the same. Its the one bearing that you really can't see to inspect and some slop is tolerable.

All this said, something got "gargled" other than gas
 

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