Stihl MS271

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Stihl doesn't use the "small spline", but use their own "mini spline" instead - but all but the 360 out of those saws comes with a spur sprocket anyway.

Replacement drums with a splined hub and a rim are availiable for at least some of those saws though, and if they are Oregon they may have the "small spline". If it is Stihl, it is either "mini" or "standard" (often called large).

This is true. I have a MS270. Ordered the small spline for it. it was too loose. Went to the Stihl dealer and he gave me the Stihl Mini spline, quite a difference.
rimcompare.jpg
 
This is true. I have a MS270. Ordered the small spline for it. it was too loose. Went to the Stihl dealer and he gave me the Stihl Mini spline, quite a difference. ....

Quite a difference in price as well, considering both are made at the same factory, and are the exact same quality. The price difference is about the same here, if you buy the Oregon branded rims from a Husky dealer. ;)
 
bryan, I have all stihls. ms180, 210, 029, 290, 360, 390.

I would recommend you sell a few of what you got and get a Pro Level Stihl saw with M-Tronic. Any size that feels good to you. They will impress you far more than those homeowner saws, and if you have that many saws you really should have a Pro Level saw. It will be lighter, run stronger, and last half of forever. The M-Tonic feature will also impress you.
 
I would recommend you sell a few of what you got and get a Pro Level Stihl saw with M-Tronic. Any size that feels good to you. They will impress you far more than those homeowner saws, and if you have that many saws you really should have a Pro Level saw. It will be lighter, run stronger, and last half of forever. The M-Tonic feature will also impress you.

I love M-Tronic and AutoTune
 
Actually, the 360 should be stronger than the 390, despite less cc. It also is a pro saw, vs. cheaply made "homowner" saws, and lighter.

The MS271 is another cheaply made "homeowner" saw.
Definately not a semi pro saw, Stihl doesn't make any semi pro saws currently. Regardless what they call it in marketing, it is built like a "homeowner" saw
I am always bewildered at your criteria. What are the criteria for a "pro", "semipro" or "homeowner" saw? They don't exist! It is simply a definition by the companies who produce the product. There has never been an "industry" standard of these criteria. There has never been any published numbers of engine/saw life, etc. And your ignorance to these "facts" is all to evident.

And how you can define "cheaply" made is also quite strange. Modern polymers have proven again and again there superiority over classic "materials". If you look f.e. at firearms the prime example would be the glock pistol. A bunch of old people still "horrified" by the material but it has proven that it is way more than any "full steel" gun!

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I am always bewildered at your criteria. What are the criteria for a "pro", "semipro" or "homeowner" saw? They don't exist! ....

No, there aren't any "official" criteria, but there is a lot of tradition on the subject.

A semi-pro saw traditionally is built like a pro saw, but it has a lesser performance engine, and usually (but not always) some other differenses, like spur vs. rim sprockets, plastic instead of magnesium in covers etc, or other more subtle differences. Some nicities like an adjustable oiler (just an exemple) may be absent as well.

All saws with a plastic main case and/or a clamshell style engine should be regarded a "homeowner" class saw, regardless what the brand calls it.
 
Tradition alone is always the enemy of progress! The best example in my eyes in the chainsaw world is the Stihl 260. An absolut cash cow that inhibited Stihl to move on! Where are they now...

I understand your criteria of definition of semi and homeowner saws, but they have hardly anything to do with reality. The most hated saw the 290, has enough people showing a complete difference in regard to long livety even in pro settings. Enough have comented on that fact here over the years of having these saws in a pro environment and having them hold up very well. Of course no one wanted to hear or believe these reports because of the "unpopularity" of these saws. But it doesn't change the fact that people are experiencing very good results.

The "facts" always will stay the same no matter how much we like to interpretate in our view. With regular maintenance, for a firewooder, they will all outlast us independant on model or brand.

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I would recommend you sell a few of what you got and get a Pro Level Stihl saw with M-Tronic. Any size that feels good to you. They will impress you far more than those homeowner saws, and if you have that many saws you really should have a Pro Level saw. It will be lighter, run stronger, and last half of forever. The M-Tonic feature will also impress you.
The 360 is a "pro level" saw, and the only one that's ever given me any problems. Stihl ms360 pro.
 
No, there aren't any "official" criteria, but there is a lot of tradition on the subject.

A semi-pro saw traditionally is built like a pro saw, but it has a lesser performance engine, and usually (but not always) some other differenses, like spur vs. rim sprockets, plastic instead of magnesium in covers etc, or other more subtle differences. Some nicities like an adjustable oiler (just an exemple) may be absent as well.

All saws with a plastic main case and/or a clamshell style engine should be regarded a "homeowner" class saw, regardless what the brand calls it.
I agree. And if there wasnt a difference why isnt an ms 250 built like a 260? If a clamshell is superior why isnt that design in my 440?
 
Tradition alone is always the enemy of progress! The best example in my eyes in the chainsaw world is the Stihl 260. An absolut cash cow that inhibited Stihl to move on! Where are they now...

I understand your criteria of definition of semi and homeowner saws, but they have hardly anything to do with reality. The most hated saw the 290, has enough people showing a complete difference in regard to long livety even in pro settings. Enough have comented on that fact here over the years of having these saws in a pro environment and having them hold up very well. Of course no one wanted to hear or believe these reports because of the "unpopularity" of these saws. But it doesn't change the fact that people are experiencing very good results.

The "facts" always will stay the same no matter how much we like to interpretate in our view. With regular maintenance, for a firewooder, they will all outlast us independant on model or brand.

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I like my 029 and 026 :) I wouldnt say a 290/029 is unpopular. Its just the mentality if some who think that a 290 is far superior to say a poulan 330. Has nothing to do with the saw. An 029 is a rugged, good saw imo.
 
I agree. And if there wasnt a difference why isnt an ms 250 built like a 260? If a clamshell is superior why isnt that design in my 440?
All I know is that I would say that I probably cut 12-15 cords of wood a year, on average, some years more, some years less. All but one of my saws are classified as home owner or farm and ranch "grade" by mfg. My "pro" saw crapped out with between 10-12 cords on it. If it were operator error, and not a defective saw, I would think that all of my saws would have suffered the same fate, since they have all been treated/maintained the same way.
 
....
I understand your criteria of definition of semi and homeowner saws, but they have hardly anything to do with reality. .....

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Reality is just what I posted about - then those that want to can dream up what they want.

Neither plastic cases or clamshell style engines represent any progress, only lower quality and usually more weight and bulk. That doesn't mean that all of them are bad saws for the occational user that just wants something that works.

The saws are what they are, and no marketing tricks can change that, except in the minds of less than knowlegable people.....
 
Yes, but you need to know if you have an air leak. There was a reason for the first failure...if that wasn't corrected, then you will be back there soon. How many turns out is the H needle from seated to get an 11.8K tune? That can tell something about whether or not you have an air leak. I would guess it should be around 1.5-2 from seated to get that rpm. When you rev it to WOT, does it get to max rpm and then begin to climb further? Or is 11.8k all it will ever do regardless of how long you hold it at WOT?

Yes, it needs to be set about 13.0K until you have a few tanks through it.

Yes, higher means leaner, but it is designed to run in a certain rpm range and it's not 11.8K.

Looking for air leak....note to self: ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS drain the fuel tank before messing with the fuel line!!! So, I was looking at the tank vent, noticed that all of the little holes seem to have sawdust packed into them. I wonder if that has caused a problem that may have starved the engine in the first place? Anyway, pulled the fuel line off the carb and had fuel mix spray everywhere. I was able to pinch the line shut and re-attach it, but there was a huge amount of pressure in that tank. I would assume that the pressure build up is normal, but I don't know how much. So, after I drain the fuel tank, should I pop that tank vent out and clean it out? Didn't notice any place were the line was bubbling or leaking anywhere. I would assume with the amount of pressure there was, if there were a problem with the fuel line itself, I would have seen something. Also, I am having difficulty pulling the limiters. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to line up to pull them, and I didn't want to take pliers to the screw I inserted and just pull it out as that looked like that would have resulted in damage to the limiters.
 
Reality is just what I posted about - then those that want to can dream up what they want.

Neither plastic cases or clamshell style engines represent any progress, only lower quality and usually more weight and bulk. That doesn't mean that all of them are bad saws for the occational user that just wants something that works.

The saws are what they are, and no marketing tricks can change that, except in the minds of less than knowlegable people.....
Reality is what people with experience with the saws in question comment about them and not what people dream up in their far away world. Those who listen to the above are the knowledgeable people.

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Reality is what people with experience with the saws in question comment about them and not what people dream up in their far away world. Those who listen to the above are the knowledgeable people.

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The people that use the sub-standard saws usually don't know what they are talking about, so their reports are basically worth nil and nothing.

You get one "dislike" back from me for that silly post, after you left me two earlier in the thread - not that I really care! :laugh::chop::givebeer:

Saws are what they are, regardless what the brand calls them, and what some users think of them.
 
The people that use the sub-standard saws usually don't know what they are talking about, so their reports are basically worth nil and nothing.

You get one "dislike" back from me for that silly post, after you left me two earlier in the thread - not that I really care! :laugh::chop::givebeer:

Saws are what they are, regardless what the brand calls them, and what some users think of them.
Was waiting all along for a "dislike"! :cry::laugh:

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Delivered, and no problem - I sort of like to have someone to disagree with, that isn't a pure moron! :D

I don't really like to use the "dislike" button though, but some times I feel I have to....:buttkick:
So I am only a half moron!?! Wait you :chainsaw::chop::buttkick:

:p

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