Help me troubleshoot my Craftsman chainsaw

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SharkmanDan

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Im going to tell the story in long form, so that I don't potentially leave out any pertinent facts.
I have a Sears Craftsman 358.35098, 20", 50cc chainsaw. I got it lightly used, because the 18" Poulan Wild Thing, that used to get the job done on an occasional trim of my SoCal avocado tree (singular), was not adequate, for the 20 acres of hardwood forest I now live in, here in E. Oklahoma.
When I first got it, this Craftsman was a BEAST, of a saw, compared to the Poulan. Then, I had a very old, red oak, with a 48" base, that rotted and fell against the house. The Craftsman started getting a pretty good workout. I got 4 cords of wood out of it, still burned a bunch of scrap, and have two LARGE chunks 36"-42" diameter by 4'-5' long and a 10' stump, still standing, left.
Lots of wood!
While cutting one of those LARGE chunks, I noticed that the saw was cutting crooked. As it was cutting downward, it was turning to the left, as it descended in the wood, and it seemed to be bogging down. I was told by a local small engine repair place, "Oh, your bar is warped. You need a new bar."
So, I bought a new Oregon, bar/chain combo. After replacement, it is still doing the same. I took it to a different shop, and he said that it was never the bar, it was likely the chain, and me not sharpening it evenly. That made sense, as I recalled seeing some teeth longer than others, and some that were not the right angle.
So, they sharpened it, on their grinder, and I brought it home. It's still cutting crooked. The angles on the teeth, are all the same now, but some teeth are longer, some are pretty short. I guess that means time to chuck the blade, and get a new one. My fault. I didn't know how to properly sharpen it. But, I do now.
But, that doesn't tell me, why it is bogging down, even when I'm not cutting. Could the clutch be binding? Sprocket peened over? What should I look for?
I'm no experienced, old hand, at using a chainsaw. I'm learning. Until last year, I would cut a few branches, every three years, or so. I'm certain that I ruined my blade, because I learned how to sharpen it, by doing so wrongly, several times. I don't want to risk doing something else stupid, out of ignorance.
Thanks in advance for being patient enough to read my long story, and kind enough to answer.


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If you're cutting with a 'curve' it puts additional drag on the chain.

In my own experience, I have a tendency to apply too much LH pressure at times. It causes the saw to 'roll' a bit and cut crooked.
 
I would think a new chain would fix it. But I had thought you had replaced both bar and chain at the same time originally. If you haven't, replace the chain and it should be fine. Long and short teeth will curve. The cutters should all be the same length.


Regards-Carlo
 
Yes, I have two chains for it, and see that both have uneven teeth. Both pull to the left as I am cutting downward. But, why would it be bogging down? Sprocket looks a bit torn up. But, I've seen worse. Could that be it?


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Yes, I have two chains for it, and see that both have uneven teeth. Both pull to the left as I am cutting downward. But, why would it be bogging down? Sprocket looks a bit torn up. But, I've seen worse. Could that be it?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If it still was cutting to the left with a brand new bar and chain, then it's some other issue. Regardless, it's time to replace the sprocket. A worn out sprocket will not be a good for your chains and will make it hard to adjust them. I've never heard of a bar getting warped unless a tree sets down on it, it takes a lot of force to warp one, just regular cutting can't do that as far as I know. I did have a Poulan/Craftsman saw once that I had to sell for parts. It was no longer cutting right and for a while I couldn't figure it out until I noticed that the bar wasn't lining up anymore with the body of the saw. I'd been using it hard, and had purchased it used at a yard sale. Exhaust heat had been slowly melting the plastic in the area where the bar bolted on to the saw. The exhaust outlet was poorly positioned and the muffler had been hit by something and was directing hot gas into the wrong area. That's probably not the problem with your saw, but it's worth looking into just to eliminate potential issues.
 
I have a new blade on its way. Should be here Wednesday.

I THINK I just found the problem with it bogging. I just took the side cover off, for a thorough cleaning and inspection.
I'm not the only person to have used it, since I bought it. I loaned it to my 30 year old nephew, to help his parents (my sister and her hubby) on a big project, last fall. He's far more accustomed to chainsaws than me. Also, my best friend used it, to fell a couple of trees, helping me, last winter, when I couldn't get out in the woods and get it myself. It appears that someone, tried putting the side cover back on, with the brake engaged (since I'm the least experienced, it was probably me, I just don't remember doing so) and damaged the ring brake, that clamps the clutch housing. It was peened over, and dragging on the clutch drum. So, I got my diamond bit out, for the dremel tool, and burnished it down, smooth. Then, I re-installed everything, started it up, and she runs like a charm. Even seems to cut straighter. Though, I didn't try cutting a very big log. Only about 8"-9" in diameter. But, previously, it never would go through that log, without bogging out, multiple times. This time, it cut pretty straight, and powered right through it.


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