Masterminded 346XP Tips And Tricks

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BP can be a *****. Better make sure Jon takes his pills.
Thank you for sharing all this stuff about 346 but i have few questions.
Didint you once say 0.035 squish is ok for 346 OE?
What do you think about Metor Piston p&c for 346? or should i get toasted one for 10$ and clean it up nicely?
 
Not sure what you mean? Are you talking clearance, or amount removed?

I'd rather use an OEM jug. Not that Meteor is bad.......but I know exactly what to do on the OEM jug.
 
I noticed you trimmed the limiters on the carb and I just found out this weekend while I was modding my muffler that if you remove the limiter caps the srews underneath are slotted so you can just toss the caps. Atleast that is how my 2008 2153 is.

to remove the caps you just have to pry the white plastic surround piece apart at the slot while pulling on the cap with needle nose pliers.
 
That's good infos Randy, I'll try a few things on my first 346. I will be great to run a 346 ported by you, you seems to port them differently than Dan Henry, he make popups and on the last saw he send me he add 2 "pipes" on the muffler. This saw is crazy strong and have great compression (195 PSI on the new one before the first start!).

But the 2153 you build is really, really impressive too, probably as fast as mine. But probably less loud.

Great thread:rock:
 
I'm talking about clerance.
Sure i would love to fing toasted OEM - 5 minutes of cleaning and i have either great jug or piece of junk.
Does meteor have thinner layer of chrome/nikasil or just poor manufacturing?
 
I'm talking about clerance.
Sure i would love to fing toasted OEM - 5 minutes of cleaning and i have either great jug or piece of junk.
Does meteor have thinner layer of chrome/nikasil or just poor manufacturing?
Toasted oem 346 jugs are very rare. I've looked for years and not found one.
 
I noticed you trimmed the limiters on the carb and I just found out this weekend while I was modding my muffler that if you remove the limiter caps the srews underneath are slotted so you can just toss the caps. Atleast that is how my 2008 2153 is.

to remove the caps you just have to pry the white plastic surround piece apart at the slot while pulling on the cap with needle nose pliers.
Best to leave the plastic caps on and trim the stops.
 
That's what happened to my H screw, the cap was cracked so it was slipping on the screw and I was having trouble adjusting it. the screws have the springs on them like the old school adjustable screws and the caps don't appear to have any type of anti rotation feature so I don't see any reason to keep them other than to keep it somewhat stock looking.
 
That's what happened to my H screw, the cap was cracked so it was slipping on the screw and I was having trouble adjusting it. the screws have the springs on them like the old school adjustable screws and the caps don't appear to have any type of anti rotation feature so I don't see any reason to keep them other than to keep it somewhat stock looking.
Makes it easier to get the screw drive on and keep it on when tuning.
 
thats what the white plastic ring around both screws is for. but to be honest with you I just discovered this this weekend and I have not tried to tune it yet since my muffler mod is not quite complete yet. I have noticed it is hard to get the screwdriver onto the screws with the top cover on. my carb sits a little too far back from the cylinder so the guide tubes on the primer bulb are a little offset.
 
How many rpm do I dare take a MM 346 to, and what rpm would be optimal?
I prefer to break this one in slowly. Running 3/8 & 16" bar.
John
 

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