Hard Leaner Near Power Lines, Advice?

[Artemis]

Some family of mine have a hard leaning birch just waiting to take out their power. They have just opened a business and don't have the funds to hire a fully ticketed pro with all the fancy equipment, so I agreed to the challenge. I will include some pictures. I have fallen trees that were in close proximity to power lines on all sides, but nothing this close. The pictures don't do it justice. They are about 6 to 8 feet from the lines, and the tree is leaning a lot harder than it looks in pics.
First of all I don't have a lot of room to maneuver or fall the tree, so my only option is to fall it backwards by pulling it against its lean. I will anchor it back to something to keep it from taking out the lines once its free at the stump. Then with some helping hands, we will pull it backwards into the parking area.
What do you think?

 

[Artemis]

Here's the pics

 

[Pelorus]

I will anchor it back to something to keep it from taking out the lines once its free at the stump. Then with some helping hands, we will pull it backwards into the parking area.
What do you think?

I think I'm confused with the "free at the stump...." part of the plan.
Leaving enough hingewood to keep that tree attached to the stump untill it is pulled over might be less drama.
You could mebbe get a free hydro disconnect / reconnect. In Ontario that's the case, but they gouge us on our monthly bills, so it is the least they can do.

 

[Del_]

Has all the makings of the next YouTube 'Hold my Beer' video.

Be sure to record.

 

[capetrees]

more pics

 

[Pelorus]

What could possibly go wrong?

 

[greengreer]

Well it's hard to tell just looking at pictures but...
Those look like service lines. Correct?
The lack of a top is great for you but how dead is the tree. A healthy birch will hinge really well but they can quickly become brittle/doty.
If the wood is solid and there is a way to safely set a line near the top of the tree, then you should be able to do it assuming you have some basic equiptment. A good bullrope, blocks, wedges, throwline, etc.
Basically you need as much leverage as possible and a strong pull (4x4 fullsize truck with good traction or tractor, etc). Cut a very shallow open face notch, leave a ton of hinge and back everything up with wedges. Pull little by little and if you need to cut a little more out of your back cut, and keep pounding those wedges until you have it standing upright.
No need to tie the butt unless there is something I am missing from those pics.

Honestly I do not know your skill level or equipment. If you are lacking in any of these areas it's going to be alot cheaper to have someone come take care of this. I'll bet you would be surprised at what you would be quoted to get that sucker on the ground. I'd say you'd be falling into most companies minimum rate, which is usually reasonable considering the risk you could be taking...

 

[Artemis]

I think I'm confused with the "free at the stump...." part of the plan.
Leaving enough hingewood to keep that tree attached to the stump untill it is pulled over might be less drama.
You could mebbe get a free hydro disconnect / reconnect. In Ontario that's the case, but they gouge us on our monthly bills, so it is the least they can do.

I would cut it completely free so that there is no hinge, is what I mean. But i like your idea of leaving some hinge. I will do that.

 

[Artemis]

Well it's hard to tell just looking at pictures but...
Those look like service lines. Correct?
The lack of a top is great for you but how dead is the tree. A healthy birch will hinge really well but they can quickly become brittle/doty.
If the wood is solid and there is a way to safely set a line near the top of the tree, then you should be able to do it assuming you have some basic equiptment. A good bullrope, blocks, wedges, throwline, etc.
Basically you need as much leverage as possible and a strong pull (4x4 fullsize truck with good traction or tractor, etc). Cut a very shallow open face notch, leave a ton of hinge and back everything up with wedges. Pull little by little and if you need to cut a little more out of your back cut, and keep pounding those wedges until you have it standing upright.
No need to tie the butt unless there is something I am missing from those pics.

Honestly I do not know your skill level or equipment. If you are lacking in any of these areas it's going to be alot cheaper to have someone come take care of this. I'll bet you would be surprised at what you would be quoted to get that sucker on the ground. I'd say you'd be falling into most companies minimum rate, which is usually reasonable considering the risk you could be taking...

I am unsure as to how dead it is. And I will make sure to wedge the crap outta it. thanks you for the detailed walk thru, I really appreciate it!

 

[Jed1124]

I would cut it completely free so that there is no hinge, is what I mean. But i like your idea of leaving some hinge. I will do that.

uuuuh, no don't do that. But if that's your plan take Del's advice and please video............

 

[greengreer]

No offense but I think you should pass this on to the pro's.
If you're not sure how dead it is then there is way too much risk involved, as all of the variables cannot be accounted for. Also by saying that you were just going to cutt it off the stump makes me suspect that you haven't the experience to do this safely. You need lots of hinge to do pull a hard leaner backwards. This is not something someone on the internet can teach you. I hope that you call a few local tree services and have them give you a bid. If it's something you will be capable of doing it shouldn't be very expensive. If its very expensive, find out why, there's usually a reason...

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Do you have a generator?

 

[lone wolf]

Stay away from power lines it ain't worth killing yourself or someone else nuff said! I have seen it happen!

 

[Hoowasat]

 

[RajElectric]

Not a good job to tackle without experience.

 

[capetrees]

From the pictures, I think I see, near the transformer, a LOT of insulators, telling me BIG power.

F that. Either call someone with a lift to top it below the lines and you do the rest or have someone with experience take it to the ground, you cleanup.

Live to see another day.

 

[JeffGu]

What do you think?

I'm thinking along the same lines as some others... have somebody who is standing quite far away take video.
As a general rule, you don't flop entire trees in an urban environment, you dismantle them. In many municipalities, you are required by law to contact the appropriate utility companies before doing any tree work within ten feet of their lines. Even arborists are required to have special certification for line clearance work, in many cities. One thing we don't do is flop the tree until it's been dismantled, and the spar blocked down to below the utility lines. You should seriously consider not only the risks to your life, but the liability consequences.

 

[redfin]

All to the left of that pole is secondary. If it is as bad as you describe pony up for the service disconnect and drop the trees.

My question, that pole and transformer looks like they are almost new, why werent the trees addressed prior to setting?

 

[tylerbeach3]

I'd say pull it down with your truck and a really long rope. Tie a running bowline with throw line tied to the back of your knot so you can get your rope/evidence out of the tree. Don't put any cuts in it and make it look like a natural fall. When the tree hits the lines and brings em to the ground cleanup and go away. Have the resident call (from their cell phone of course) the power company . Problem solved.

 

[tylerbeach3]

All to the left of that pole is secondary. If it is as bad as you describe pony up for the service disconnect and drop the trees.

My question, that pole and transformer looks like they are almost new, why werent the trees addressed prior to setting?

Good question. Looks like that birch has been dead for a while.