372 xpw cylinder?

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Do you open that port up, and if so, how do you know by how much. I'm sure there is a point of diminishing returns. Or do you just mark where the ring retaining pins are and grind and shape them to that point? Or do you leave them alone and let itincrease the velocity. I'm probably wrong in my thinking.
 
I guess I need to invest in a small right angle grinder of some sort. Something tells me my dremel won't cut it.
 
Sorry if I'm making a lot of posts and asking too many questions. But that pike of aluminum, I assume most of it comes from grinding out the hump and narrowing the divider? I assume you widen and adjust the intake and exhaust also. But surely not that much.
 
Do you open that port up, and if so, how do you know by how much. I'm sure there is a point of diminishing returns. Or do you just mark where the ring retaining pins are and grind and shape them to that point? Or do you leave them alone and let itincrease the velocity. I'm probably wrong in my thinking.

I just make the 51.4 the same as the 50. You have to widen that tunnel all the way to the top though, if not you mess up the entry angle.....
 
Sorry if I'm making a lot of posts and asking too many questions. But that pike of aluminum, I assume most of it comes from grinding out the hump and narrowing the divider? I assume you widen and adjust the intake and exhaust also. But surely not that much.

Yep, most of it comes from the transfer tunnels.
 
I was looking at your photobucket. I like the business card idea cut to the height that you want. Is that what they call port matching, where you have the transfer and exhaust opening at the same time?
 
I couldn't really tell but it looked like you didn't widen or raise the intake or exhaust at the walls just polished them some?
 
I looked at my notes 74° was stock intake. Probably plenty without doing a lot of other work. Blowdown could be shortened by raising the transfers a little and it will help a bit.

When I first joined this site everyone said a longer blowdown was the answer.

Things sure have changed a lot.
 
I've got a jug here that Dennis Cahoon ported years ago. The exhaust is at 90° and the transfers are at 110°. It has both fingers, and bridges.
 
They are numbers that would make a lot of power way up in the rpm spectrum.

Maybe higher than is realistic.

Blowdown it the amount of time in degrees of crankshaft rotation from exhaust opening point, to transfer opening point.
 
Something that should be mentioned, but often isn't, at least to keep in mind for the chainsaw porting learning crowd, is that there is no free lunch- everything is a tradeoff or a compromise of something else.

More power is achieved at the expense of fuel economy. A saw can be ported for more torque to run a longer bar, but often at the detriment to peak RPM, which results is slower chain speed, which can make the saw actually slower in smaller wood with shorter bars. And inversely, a saw that becomes a "screamer" with more RPM in the cut for a given bar may be sacrificing torque in the lower RPM range that would be noticed if you are trying to run a longer bar or start a chain in the middle of a cut.

Tricks can be played for higher compression to squeeze out more power, opening exhaust restrictions, or adding bridge/finger ports to achieve better flow, but the engineers who designed these saws and engines probably knew a hell of a lot more than we do when we adjust their characteristics to make them "moar better" by grinding on them.

While these saws were designed to cover a broad range of use cases (long and short bars, soft and hard wood, operating conditions from high altitudes to sea level, etc) porting can sometimes make a saw perform better in specific cases, but not as well in others.

The only thing I think about is what compromises they made (such as for EPA emissions) when they designed these saws, and would overriding those choices make a better saw for me?

I tend to take a minimalist approach to augmenting the original design, but others have luck with more radical changes. I personally believe you begin chasing diminishing returns after a certain point.

Anyway, just something to throw out there to remind people of.
 
Something that should be mentioned, but often isn't, at least to keep in mind for the chainsaw porting learning crowd, is that there is no free lunch- everything is a tradeoff or a compromise of something else.

More power is achieved at the expense of fuel economy. A saw can be ported for more torque to run a longer bar, but often at the detriment to peak RPM, which results is slower chain speed, which can make the saw actually slower in smaller wood with shorter bars. And inversely, a saw that becomes a "screamer" with more RPM in the cut for a given bar may be sacrificing torque in the lower RPM range that would be noticed if you are trying to run a longer bar or start a chain in the middle of a cut.

Tricks can be played for higher compression to squeeze out more power, opening exhaust restrictions, or adding bridge/finger ports to achieve better flow, but the engineers who designed these saws and engines probably knew a hell of a lot more than we do when we adjust their characteristics to make them "moar better" by grinding on them.

While these saws were designed to cover a broad range of use cases (long and short bars, soft and hard wood, operating conditions from high altitudes to sea level, etc) porting can sometimes make a saw perform better in specific cases, but not as well in others.

The only thing I think about is what compromises they made (such as for EPA emissions) when they designed these saws, and would overriding those choices make a better saw for me?

I tend to take a minimalist approach to augmenting the original design, but others have luck with more radical changes. I personally believe you begin chasing diminishing returns after a certain point.

Anyway, just something to throw out there to remind people of.

Bingo
 
Something that should be mentioned, but often isn't, at least to keep in mind for the chainsaw porting learning crowd, is that there is no free lunch- everything is a tradeoff or a compromise of something else.

More power is achieved at the expense of fuel economy. A saw can be ported for more torque to run a longer bar, but often at the detriment to peak RPM, which results is slower chain speed, which can make the saw actually slower in smaller wood with shorter bars. And inversely, a saw that becomes a "screamer" with more RPM in the cut for a given bar may be sacrificing torque in the lower RPM range that would be noticed if you are trying to run a longer bar or start a chain in the middle of a cut.

Tricks can be played for higher compression to squeeze out more power, opening exhaust restrictions, or adding bridge/finger ports to achieve better flow, but the engineers who designed these saws and engines probably knew a hell of a lot more than we do when we adjust their characteristics to make them "moar better" by grinding on them.

While these saws were designed to cover a broad range of use cases (long and short bars, soft and hard wood, operating conditions from high altitudes to sea level, etc) porting can sometimes make a saw perform better in specific cases, but not as well in others.

The only thing I think about is what compromises they made (such as for EPA emissions) when they designed these saws, and would overriding those choices make a better saw for me?

I tend to take a minimalist approach to augmenting the original design, but others have luck with more radical changes. I personally believe you begin chasing diminishing returns after a certain point.

Anyway, just something to throw out there to remind people of.
this is exactly what I have been thinking, and why I have been hesitant to grind any more than I have. I ideally would like a good all around saw. I don't want a screamer, but I'm also not going to be cutting anything bigger than 36" and more than likely will be wearing a 24" bar. im like you I just want to take out the restrictions.
 
I've got a jug here that Dennis Cahoon ported years ago. The exhaust is at 90° and the transfers are at 110°. It has both fingers, and bridges.
so does that mean that this has 20° of blowdown? Is that a long or a short blowdown, and which makes more torque?
 
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