Nik's Poulan Thread

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Well, It seems everybody in the Poulan thread has a 3000 or one of its close kin, except me. Until now. :D I havn't done much to this one, other than break it down some to de-gunk it. I did put a chain catcher and bushing that was missing on it. Removed the one plate inside the muffler and spark screen.
It came to me with a kinda rusty 16" bar. I decided to go with a 18" instead. New chain, Oregon LPX .325 I won't be racing, and I like the added little reach of the 18". Starts and runs very well! Had to richen both screws some. Sounds great! Will adjust further probably once I get it into some wood. Have several saws waiting for that! :rolleyes:

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Gregg,
You plan to add an extra exhaust port and paint the muffler, Gregg?
 
Got the triplets ready for camp this weekend( 54ccer's). 2 turns out H & L was the magic number on the 3450. The only thing done on the 3450 is a new piston/ring base gasket delete (the pistons advertised as 46.5mm are correct) and pulled the tube that goes across the muffler and opened the exit hole a bit. The middle one is the one that I ported, port matched the muffler, base gasket delete and advanced the timing. The last one only has a muff mod - my regular go to saw. I'm curious how they all perform against each other, no timing cuts just going to use the same bar and chain on all three for fun. DSCN0745.JPG
 
Got the triplets ready for camp this weekend( 54ccer's). 2 turns out H & L was the magic number on the 3450. The only thing done on the 3450 is a new piston/ring base gasket delete (the pistons advertised as 46.5mm are correct) and pulled the tube that goes across the muffler and opened the exit hole a bit. The middle one is the one that I ported, port matched the muffler, base gasket delete and advanced the timing. The last one only has a muff mod - my regular go to saw. I'm curious how they all perform against each other, no timing cuts just going to use the same bar and chain on all three for fun. View attachment 490776

Sweeeett! Nice line up for sure, that'll be a blast!
 
You plan to add an extra exhaust port and paint the muffler, Gregg?

Bob..I would normally say yes to those questions, and debated that very thing today. I probably will not use this saw a great deal, but work it will. Have enough saws to handle most of what I do. Sure would look better, thats sure. I might at a later date feel the need to...LOL but for now its gonna stay this way.

Gregg
 
Yes you need to do at least 2 turns out and then go from there. That goofy issue was caused by a check valve that goes bad in the high speed circuit of the carb. Unfortunately you can not get the check valve that is located under one of the welch plugs to replace it. Other wise they are good carbs and work fine.

Roger, I have found the carbs are not bad as much as one seems to think. I have seen problems that cause the same symptoms and that is the leaking of the carb boot between the carb box and the carb. The saws that used the bigger carbs had a bigger hole in the carb box for the bigger intake boot and have the carb studs come from the back side.

The boots have a very thin flange on them and if the carb studs are over tightened it will squish/crack the boot flange and cause those problems.

I'll take all the 164 carbs anyone has. I have little problems out of them. You are correct that the main nozzle check valve is not available for that carb though, I had the guy from Walbro even try to see if any were left in Japan to be had.
 
Bob..I would normally say yes to those questions, and debated that very thing today. I probably will not use this saw a great deal, but work it will. Have enough saws to handle most of what I do. Sure would look better, thats sure. I might at a later date feel the need to...LOL but for now its gonna stay this way.

Gregg


Get off your dead ass and clean the dang muffler up! It looks pathetic on a really nice saw. :ices_rofl:

You say you don't think you will use it much, I bet you will like it so much you use it a lot more then you think..
 
Get off your dead ass and clean the dang muffler up! It looks pathetic on a really nice saw. :ices_rofl:

You say you don't think you will use it much, I bet you will like it so much you use it a lot more then you think..

LOL, You are right Mark..That rusty muffler does look bad. I knew someone would mention that. I guess it won't take much to sand it and put some stove paint on it. ;)

Over the years my PP380 has been my lighter duty saw. Then, I took a shine to that Partner 500 that Fossil gave me...love that saw. I think this 3000 is a perfect match for that saw. Then I got one of those PP295's also. That is not a terrible light duty saw either.

Gregg,
 
Roger, I have found the carbs are not bad as much as one seems to think. I have seen problems that cause the same symptoms and that is the leaking of the carb boot between the carb box and the carb. The saws that used the bigger carbs had a bigger hole in the carb box for the bigger intake boot and have the carb studs come from the back side.

The boots have a very thin flange on them and if the carb studs are over tightened it will squish/crack the boot flange and cause those problems.

I'll take all the 164 carbs anyone has. I have little problems out of them. You are correct that the main nozzle check valve is not available for that carb though, I had the guy from Walbro even try to see if any were left in Japan to be had.

The 164 seems fine to me. I had to be real careful with the reinstall making sure not to puncture or grab the intake boot on the last rib closest to the housing. The the darn cylinder was back on, sealed and really did not want to pull it again. Next time when working on that frame, the cylinder comes off , carb off , carb on then cylinder. It will give more room to reinstall the carb and help protect the boot. Those studs really have to be pushed way in to get the carb back on.
 
The 164 seems fine to me. I had to be real careful with the reinstall making sure not to puncture or grab the intake boot on the last rib closest to the housing. The the darn cylinder was back on, sealed and really did not want to pull it again. Next time when working on that frame, the cylinder comes off , carb off , carb on then cylinder. It will give more room to reinstall the carb and help protect the boot. Those studs really have to be pushed way in to get the carb back on.

You are right that is the best way.
 

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