What chain brand YOU buy when u need one now (not online)
- Thread starter Efisher26
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- chain brands chain type oregon
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Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
I would agree, the Oregon takes an edge noticeably faster than the Stihl when filed.
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
As far as I know they are Carlton. They have become my go to. I keep 5 or 8 extra loops on hand since I cut firewood too and can go through that many in a day hitting nails or iron bars (found a 2 in square bar with a brand new chain the other day). The semi chisel ones will chop though small nails and you wont even notice. I sliced through a small steel cable the other day and I only saw sparks, looked at the chain and there was no any visible damage. Dulled for sure but did not look like it had hit a cable. I am trying to convince a local dealer to start carrying them, but nobody buys semi chisel or anything but Stihl or Oregon 72LGX in 3/8ths pitch. Very good chains for the money (Carlton) and I like how big the cutters are. They seem to last longer vs. the Oregons I was running.
Used to be. Now, some are Carlton, some are Tri-link.
Chain is so pretty when it's new . . .
Philbert
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
I get free one time used only Oregon chains in 16 20 and 24 for husky saws 3/8 50 alot of times I will break a 20 and make a 60dl loop for my mac's and the 24 are the correct number of drive links as my 029 super with the 25 inch rolomatic es so I rarely buy chains but when I need 404 I would get Oregon as I don't use 404 very often
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
All the ones I have in my garage say Carlton on the tie straps, they came in Woodland Pro boxes. Regardless of brand I have been happy with all the chains I have used. They all cut the same after a couple filings for me.
like to use the Oregon brand as its "MADE IN THE USA" WEST COAST MANUFACTURING...
i'm not convinced that sithl chains are better than oregon/carlton. i've seen no hard data to support these clains and i haven't observed it "in the wild." some guys think that if it has a stihl trade mark it was sent from heaven but to me stihl chains aren't significantly different except they tend to have more anti-kickback features, are a little heavier (i think they are all built as .063 with the ends of the drive lins reduce in thickness for .058 and .050)
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have Blount/Oregon solved their out of the box "chatter/vibration" on 91VXL I had quite a few problems (the rep knew about it )some time back, but as I was given some PS chain ( see post#49 ) iv"e not used any VXL for some months & wondered if they had found a cure.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
The only loop of VXL I have was very smooth when new, but it is 68DL so it might not behave the same on a lighter, shorter bar. The last time I filed it I dropped the depth gauges just a little too far and now it chatters rather a lot. Still cuts very well though.
thefarmboy21
ArboristSite Operative
Take a few of each to a local machinist, or machine shop and have them do a hardness test. That'll tell all. Our machinist at work retired, else I would. But I watched him hardness test bolts to see what grade a specific machine needed to be replaced with. Pretty cool.
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
I do not think that hardness is the only concern with chain. Its a factor, but I do firmly believe that good filing matters more then anything else. Choosing the right chain for the situation matters more (chisel vs semi chisel).
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Bling beats fling
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
What does that mean?
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Well, I actually had no idea what you meant by fling in your post, so I turned into joke. But in fact to many showing off the name on the side, be it on saws or chains or anything else, is more important that function vs. cost (value).
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
I mean filing. I can spul rul gud.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Lol, filing. That shoulda been obvious! I'm home sick with a sore throat so I'll blame it on that.
thefarmboy21
ArboristSite Operative
I'm impartial really, I just meant if someone wanted to prove IF one really was harder than the other.
My dad likes STIHL chains. Probably because they're actually on of the easiest for him to get and I know he likes to saw more than sharpen. He's not a "pro" either tho. Our family farm is close to 300 acres and he tries to take a load of oak logs every week or two weeks. 5-7 logs at a time. So he's a pro amateur I guess you'd say. He also has a couple saw-mills and burns only firewood for heat. So he cuts a lot and has used gobs of saws over the years. He also doesn't use file guides or bar dressing tools or anything. He changes bars and chains regularly. If it wasn't for the fact that the logs were 100% profit, he may be more likely to use proper tools and spend the time to file the chain to factory spec and dress the bars a few times before he grabs new.
Me personally I like STIHL saws, but I don't care what kinda chain is on it as long as it's not causing me problems. But We do have tons of STIHL dealers in our area and they're easiest to get besides the local hardware that deals in Echo equipment and Oregon consumables.
My dad likes STIHL chains. Probably because they're actually on of the easiest for him to get and I know he likes to saw more than sharpen. He's not a "pro" either tho. Our family farm is close to 300 acres and he tries to take a load of oak logs every week or two weeks. 5-7 logs at a time. So he's a pro amateur I guess you'd say. He also has a couple saw-mills and burns only firewood for heat. So he cuts a lot and has used gobs of saws over the years. He also doesn't use file guides or bar dressing tools or anything. He changes bars and chains regularly. If it wasn't for the fact that the logs were 100% profit, he may be more likely to use proper tools and spend the time to file the chain to factory spec and dress the bars a few times before he grabs new.
Me personally I like STIHL saws, but I don't care what kinda chain is on it as long as it's not causing me problems. But We do have tons of STIHL dealers in our area and they're easiest to get besides the local hardware that deals in Echo equipment and Oregon consumables.
Bingo! Hardness is only one factor. As steel gets harder, it may hold an edge longer, under certain conditions, but also becomes harder to sharpen with a file in the field. It also becomes more brittle at a point, which means that the fine cutting edges can break off easier.
Same thing with 'thicker chrome', which some guys assume means a 'better chain'. Chrome provides abrasion resistance on the top and side of the cutters, but it is also hard / brittle, and cannot be practically sharpened, so a cutter with thicker chrome can not be made as sharp as one with a thinner layer. Some racers try to remove the chrome layer for race chain.
Overall, chain manufacturers have to balance: hardness, toughness, durability, heat treating, finish, corrosion resistance, alloys, material costs, manufacturing methods and costs, environmental issues (chrome plating), geometry, markets, etc., etc., etc. You can focus on any one of these and come up with the wrong choice.
Best thing is to buy a few loops, of different types / models / brands, etc, that fit your saw, and see which best meets your needs under your cutting conditions. Then, start messing around with different sharpening angles! Nothing wrong with having different chains for different types of wood or cutting conditions either - think of your saw as a socket set, and use different chains and guide bars like sockets and extensions for the work at hand!
Philbert
