http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauges-on-a-grinder.200410/
Cutter length affects height and width. Rougher, less efficient cut if not the same.
Philbert
Hand filing chain
- Thread starter Boomer 87
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Cutter length affects height and width. Rougher, less efficient cut if not the same.
Philbert
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I don't bother about length at all. Some chains inherently have more cutters on one side than the other, sometimes two in a row, sometimes with a gap. I've had damaged cutters and had to remove them. None of this mattered and so it's hard to see how one cutter being slightly shorter would, and indeed I can't tell - as long as the angles and depth gauges are the same. I just can't see wasting the time or metal making all the other shorter. I don't make race chains.
If a cutter gets damaged and has to be filed more and gets shorter, I try to go lighter on it in subsequent filings - eventually the other catch up.
SawTroll
Information Collector
That Stihl/Pferd guide is as useless as they get, unless you know nothing about proper filing of a saw chain.
SawTroll
Information Collector
The effect it has is close to zero though, as long as the rakers are set according to the individual cutter. It matters a lot if you use raker guides that rides on two cutters though, as the setting will be wrong.
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
So if you have different size cutters,and use a depth gauge it will be wrong? How would you set them? I'm not trying to be a smart azz,just trying to learn that's all.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
It isn't that critical - the tool rests on two adjacent cutters. If one of the cutters is significantly shorter, then it will be also lower due to the angle - but the angle is very small, something like 6deg. So the change in cutter height is about 9.5 times less than the change in cutter length. Then, since you are bridging two cutters and measuring at the center, you only see 1/2 the difference of the height of the two cutters (19:1). So if one cutter is 0.050" shorter than the other (which would be a lot), the error that produces in the depth gauge using a bridging tool is only 0.0026".
Then you'll take that chain out and run it through dirty wood and dull it, or hit something, and sharpen it again, and all that careful measurement will be out the window.
SawTroll
Information Collector
There are raker guides that ride on two cutter, and set the rakers to some "average" (actually much worse) if the cutters aren't equally long/high. Then there are raker guides that set the raker to the cutter in question, like the Husky ones and the Carlton FOP. These also are "progressive", like raker guides should be - short cutters need lower raker settings than long ones, to have the same "angle of attack", as the distance between the raker and the cutter is larger.
Tooth length has little effect if the gauges are set properly .
People who are new to filing always file too low from what I've seen, it's very easy to do.
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People who are new to filing always file too low from what I've seen, it's very easy to do.
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
To the op, get the Grandberg, it's great.... I personally hand file, but when I have time I crack a beer and use it to sure up the angles.... it will make the chain sharper that a brand new stihl chain for sure.... the other great thing about this jig is it will help you build muscle memory and it will be easier to learn how to hand file....
Boomer 87
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm filling one free hand right now it looks rite gotta good hook but idk may not cut worth the darn. I bought two files guides last night just a file with the flat piece on it, they seem more cumbersome as I can't see the tooth
I'm a fanboy for the Granberg. It's saved me a lot of cash from taking to someone to grind (and a lot of chain life). Looking for a Stihl FG2 which seems the same idea just a better execution.
Boomer 87
Addicted to ArboristSite
The other issue I'm running into is the chain I'm filing is one of the ones I bring home from the rental shop... they put on a brand new chain everytime one goes out Its amazing how consumers can absolutely destroy a chain. Works out for me as I collected a 100 or more 24"full chisel Oregon chains and 100 or more 20" of the same. So I got chains out the wazoo.
That's one dull tooth. Look at the edge of the tooth, you can see light reflecting, that means the edge is rolled over.
The hook looks about right, and it looks like you cleaned the gullet out which is good.
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
A smaller file or have more of the file sitting above the top of the tooth, that way you do not nick the tie strap. Other then that, it looks fine. The tooth looks to me like the chrome is peeling back since a lot of material was removed.
Looking at it again the file is probably too low and you're not cutting into the top plate enough or at all. A simple Stihl guide that mounts to the file is the best guide to help one get the hang of freehand filing IMHO.
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