562xp vs 555 vs 6100 stock shoot out

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Not harsh at all. I by no means am a skilled timed cookie cutter. Also I think the broad power band makes it alot easier to get consistent times with the 6100 at least for me. The huskies run great but ocean under a certain load the just stop where the 6100 keeps pulling. I was trying to make sure I didn't pass that point so I could keep the fastest cuts.
In all honesty anyone who buys a saw just on speed or power to weight leaves a good possibility to miss out on equally important aspects of the tool.
Most saws cut fastest under some real load, more than you'd think. Yes every saw will have a different power band and that sweet spot is larger on some saws than others.

I also agree!! all of my saws, ported or not, cut faster than I can work, so it's a moot point for us average Joe's.
 
Most saws cut fastest under some real load, more than you'd think. Yes every saw will have a different power band and that sweet spot is larger on some saws than others.

I also agree!! all of my saws, ported or not, cut faster than I can work, so it's a moot point for us average Joe's.
With that being said the Autotune would be a huge plus for most Average Joes that cant tune or do it improperly. Then the more narrow and canted back head of the 562 will make it a more maneuverable and agile machine. Do I sound like SawTroll yet??!!! :eek::D
 
With that being said the Autotune would be a huge plus for most Average Joes that cant tune or do it improperly. Then the more narrow and canted back head of the 562 will make it a more maneuverable and agile machine. Do I sound like SawTroll yet??!!! :eek::D

Getting there. You forgot something important, though: the OUTBOARD CLUTCH!!
 
With that being said the Autotune would be a huge plus for most Average Joes that cant tune or do it improperly. Then the more narrow and canted back head of the 562 will make it a more maneuverable and agile machine. Do I sound like SawTroll yet??!!! :eek::D
In my experience the AT is more finicky and give guys with little saw experience more troubles then non AT saws. I have a lot better luck selling a guy a 455 vs a 562. Might be that the 455 is not on the bleeding edge and more tolerant to the lack of attention most owners give.
As far as handling that is so subjective to user and use. I like the longer distance of the 6100 between the front and rear handle. It is easier for me to give leverage with less fatigue and effort, it is also just more comfortable.
But then that is just me and my use. A guy stuck in the thick of a evergreen may have a different thought. Lol
I do think the outboard clutch is way more hassle then benefits. In fact if the 6100 had an outboard clutch I would own a echo 620 or stihl 362.
 
In my experience the AT is more finicky and give guys with little saw experience more troubles then non AT saws. I have a lot better luck selling a guy a 455 vs a 562. Might be that the 455 is not on the bleeding edge and more tolerant to the lack of attention most owners give.
As far as handling that is so subjective to user and use. I like the longer distance of the 6100 between the front and rear handle. It is easier for me to give leverage with less fatigue and effort, it is also just more comfortable.
But then that is just me and my use. A guy stuck in the thick of a evergreen may have a different thought. Lol
I do think the outboard clutch is way more hassle then benefits. In fact if the 6100 had an outboard clutch I would own a echo 620 or stihl 362.
Seems with Autotune or Mtronics u either get a lemon or u dont
 
Seems with Autotune or Mtronics u either get a lemon or u dont
Biggest problem I have seen on AT lately is guys not willing to set the high idle or pulling on choke to many times.
But yes every so often is a lemon. I find it interesting I very seldom see any problems with a rancher series. Probably just the guys using the AT saws are working them vs going out for a bit of fire wood. We do run 460 ranchers in our rental department and they get no respect.
 
With the 2 autotune saws Ive had, 550 & 562, I pull out on the choke and flip up and pull until it fires . I then push down on the choke without blipping throttle and recrank in the fast idle position. Usually takes 2 or 3 pulls on choke and then 1 pull on fast idle to crank . I then leave it on fast idle until I hear the engine speed increasing and then I blip the throttle and its ready. The 562 is very consistent in starting the same everytime
 
With the 2 autotune saws Ive had, 550 & 562, I pull out on the choke and flip up and pull until it fires . I then push down on the choke without blipping throttle and recrank in the fast idle position. Usually takes 2 or 3 pulls on choke and then 1 pull on fast idle to crank . I then leave it on fast idle until I hear the engine speed increasing and then I blip the throttle and its ready. The 562 is very consistent in starting the same everytime
Had one guy with a 550 that you pulled 3 times on choke. And flip it to high idle. It never burbles on choke but if you pulled 4 it became a bear to start.
 
With that being said the Autotune would be a huge plus for most Average Joes that cant tune or do it improperly. ...
That is what I always find a funny argument, I remember quite well a time when constant tuning was not needed for a saw to run very well. And that tunning was done once every few years. And for that there was absolutely no problem whatsoever to visit a local dealer/small engine mechanic.

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That is what I always find a funny argument, I remember quite well a time when constant tuning was not needed for a saw to run very well. And that tunning was done once every few years. And for that there was absolutely no problem whatsoever to visit a local dealer/small engine mechanic.

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Everyone who purchased a saw from me gets a free tune when ever they want. In fact I ask every customer to bring it in after a few tanks and every season if they want.
 
That is what I always find a funny argument, I remember quite well a time when constant tuning was not needed for a saw to run very well. And that tunning was done once every few years. And for that there was absolutely no problem whatsoever to visit a local dealer/small engine mechanic.

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Most people dont realize their saw even needs a tune. I wonder if the average joe knows what 4 stroke means? If it cranks and runs most people r satisfied
 
That is what I always find a funny argument, I remember quite well a time when constant tuning was not needed for a saw to run very well. And that tunning was done once every few years. And for that there was absolutely no problem whatsoever to visit a local dealer/small engine mechanic.

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There was a time when puking raw fuel out the exhaust wasn't considered a problem for the operator's health or the environmental impacts. Those days are gone and saws need to be tuned less rich - that's a problem because the carbs are not capable of the required accuracy.
 
There was a time when puking raw fuel out the exhaust wasn't considered a problem for the operator's health or the environmental impacts. Those days are gone and saws need to be tuned less rich - that's a problem because the carbs are not capable of the required accuracy.
I still like both carb and electronics. The Autotune and Mtronics are very nice when they function like they were designed to. If somebody thinks they can tune a carb thats capable of keeping up with electronics for different altitutudes, loads, temperatures then all I can say is thats silly. I usually tweak saws alil on differents cutting trips if I hear somethings out of wack
 
Everyone who purchased a saw from me gets a free tune when ever they want. In fact I ask every customer to bring it in after a few tanks and every season if they want.


That's the way it ought to be. Before I knew about this site (and the other ones) my dad's 036 needed to be tuned correctly. It kept dying off idle. Brought it in to the local dealer where he bought it from (also an ace hardware). They charged him $75 for a new carb.

Best part: they returned it without tuning it. Still wouldn't stay idling.
 
There was a time when puking raw fuel out the exhaust wasn't considered a problem for the operator's health or the environmental impacts. Those days are gone and saws need to be tuned less rich - that's a problem because the carbs are not capable of the required accuracy.
I can't remember ever having a saw puke fuel. But even then again with the as you described inaccuracy of old time carbs, I have the impression that these saws miracously lived a longer life compared to todays teced out super saws... But then again a bunch of guys here on this site are trying to achieve the same results by adding more oil(1:40 or even 1:32!) to their fuel mix...

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Only way I buy into these things is of the rpm is held constant for each saw in the cut. If the saw has more ass it will take more load at the same rpm and remove more material at the same rpm as the other saw. Just my $0.02. I'll stick to which brand I think is better.
 
I can't remember ever having a saw puke fuel.
Every saw emits large amounts of unburned fuel, due to scavenging losses and the inability of the all position carbs to hold constant fuel mixture.

Strato greatly reduces scavenging losses, but nothing fixes the carb problem except the AT feedback system.
 

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