562xp vs 555 vs 6100 stock shoot out

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So you guys are saying the 562 is the best then!? :ices_rofl::dancing:
I just sold my 562XP. Very good saw. Never give me any problems. Like some others, they have hard time to start after heat up. No, never happen to me.
Why I sale the?
Well... If you ever have any problem with the electronics, you never get it right again. And nobody have a answer why?
Sold for 550 and by the Makita DCS6421 a 64cc uper end with 79 lower end. This saw is made by Dolmar and is 100% Dolmar 6400. This is a great saw.
I cut wood for my self so I don't have chance to use it hard yet....
I do use hard the 562XP and I was love that saw. Super good saw. To bad have that reputation...Sometimes you wish you should've read anything....right?
 
What would you know about big timber??? You live in Illinois!
50" oak with 75' wide crowns are more then big enough to mess with. I don't want to mess with trees any larger. So... what does my knowledge of large trees or lack thereof of even pertain to anything.
 
I d
And I do!

SR
I do as well. If it requires more then a 24" bar I find easier wood to carry , split and load. Not like I do any serious wood cutting I mean a daily fire is just the core of my business to feed my children and provide for my family and their future.
 
I just sold my 562XP. Very good saw. Never give me any problems. Like some others, they have hard time to start after heat up. No, never happen to me.
Why I sale the?
Well... If you ever have any problem with the electronics, you never get it right again.
And nobody have a answer why?
Sold for 550 and by the Makita DCS6421 a 64cc uper end with 79 lower end. This saw is made by Dolmar and is 100% Dolmar 6400. This is a great saw.
I cut wood for my self so I don't have chance to use it hard yet....
I do use hard the 562XP and I was love that saw. Super good saw. To bad have that reputation...Sometimes you wish you should've read anything....right?

How would you know if you never personally had any problems your 562 XP?

So you are saying you sold the saw because people where saying the saws electronics are junk and would screw up on you and nobody would be able to fix it. Not even the Husqvarna dealers service. But your saw was working perfectly for you at the time!?

Makes perfect sense....o_Oo_O:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::nofunny:
 
How would you know if you never personally had any problems your 562 XP?

So you are saying you sold the saw because people where saying the saws electronics are junk and would screw up on you and nobody would be able to fix it. Not even the Husqvarna dealers service. But your saw was working perfectly for you at the time!?

Makes perfect sense....o_Oo_O:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::nofunny:
Could be one for the X files hmmm[emoji19]

Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk
 
As far as I know, the issues with the 550 and 562 haven't been electronics-based at all. They've largely been crank seals and vapor lock while sitting hot when the ambient temperature is hot, as well as the actual, mechanical parts of the early 562 carbs, right?

Mike
 
As far as I know, the issues with the 550 and 562 haven't been electronics-based at all. They've largely been crank seals and vapor lock while sitting hot when the ambient temperature is hot, as well as the actual, mechanical parts of the early 562 carbs, right?

Mike
Correct, solid state electronics are quite stable, and all you'd need to do is replace the ignition coil, which is a common failure on non AT saws as well. People always fear that which they don't understand. The issue With the 562 have been mechanical and design related, not electronic.
 
What is the logic for the USA bucking spike on the 6100? If you cut a section for firewood or removal and decide to split it instead of getting an assistant or a machine to pick it up the large gasoline tank and that bucking spike make the useable bar length really compromised. The European one seems not to come up when I put the part number in in various places for on line ordering.
 
What is the logic for the USA bucking spike on the 6100? If you cut a section for firewood or removal and decide to split it instead of getting an assistant or a machine to pick it up the large gasoline tank and that bucking spike make the useable bar length really compromised. The European one seems not to come up when I put the part number in in various places for on line ordering.
I am not sure the reason other then maybe they "look cool" they do work but I wish we could get the European one or better yet a double set that size.
 
It's not a bucking spike, it's a felling spike/dog. They're necessary when felling thick barked trees, and are not necessary or all that useful for bucking if you run good chains. They also protect the case.
I definitely agree with that clarification. It must be designed for a round that need not cut all the way through like when there is a notch. If I recall correctly the 6100 is (marketed as) a felling and de branching saw. When I joined here folks were real fussy about the difference between a raker and a depth gauge.
 
For bucking logs I found the spike to be serviceable for up to 20 in logs. I always cut in two stages anyway. Similar to the technique used in the video earlier in the thread, but I always bring the saw closer to vertical. Im sure I could do it in a faster motion but I only ever use the 6100 for 14-16 in wood anyway.
 

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