FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

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Your good on for a no base gasket looks like they did a better job on your cylinder.:yes:

Now on the exhaust if you would like to get rid of some heat and pick up a little power open up the flout of the port but you need to stay away from the inside of the port but it's all up to you but for now try without base gasket and go from there.
Thanks. May I ask how you determined that a no base gasket was OK? Just from the width and flatness of the squish area?
On the exhaust, are you saying to open the outside part of the port but don't enlarge the inside part where the piston rings ride?
would I not have to open the muffler inlet to match?
Sorry for all the newbie questions, but I really appreciate your help and I am excited to learn more about this.
 
Thanks. May I ask how you determined that a no base gasket was OK? Just from the width and flatness of the squish area?
On the exhaust, are you saying to open the outside part of the port but don't enlarge the inside part where the piston rings ride?
would I not have to open the muffler inlet to match?
Sorry for all the newbie questions, but I really appreciate your help and I am excited to learn more about this.
Yes on a lot of AM cylinders the squish band is very unpredictable yours looks OK if in deed you are at . 040 squish without base gasket then you got plenty of room and yes on the exhaust port I normally stay at least a few mm from the inside of the port its just safer that way for a beginner and you don't really need to change the side's of the port but top and bottom you can do to the way the muffler is designed. And if you don't want to do anything to the port then yes opening the muffler up will help a bit.
 
Yes on a lot of AM cylinders the squish band is very unpredictable yours looks OK if in deed you are at . 040 squish without base gasket then you got plenty of room and yes on the exhaust port I normally stay at least a few mm from the inside of the port its just safer that way for a beginner and you don't really need to change the side's of the port but top and bottom you can do to the way the muffler is designed. And if you don't want to do anything to the port then yes opening the muffler up will help a bit.
Thanks, since this was my first squish test, I will explain how I did it and please correct me if I am in error. I bolted the cylinder down, no rings, I put the flywheel on temporarily. I stuck the end of the solder in the spark plug hole until it hit the cylinder. I turned the flywheel until I felt it crunch the solder, took it out and measured. .040. I cut the flat part of solder off and repeated on the other side. .040 again.
Do I need to cut pieces off and stick them to piston, then put cylinder on, or is the way I did it OK?
Thanks again.
 
Thanks, since this was my first squish test, I will explain how I did it and please correct me if I am in error. I bolted the cylinder down, no rings, I put the flywheel on temporarily. I stuck the end of the solder in the spark plug hole until it hit the cylinder. I turned the flywheel until I felt it crunch the solder, took it out and measured. .040. I cut the flat part of solder off and repeated on the other side. .040 again.
Do I need to cut pieces off and stick them to piston, then put cylinder on, or is the way I did it OK?
Thanks again.
Since you're not to far ahead I would put solder in the front and back and on both sides at the same time you can do that with a little grease.
 
Thanks, since this was my first squish test, I will explain how I did it and please correct me if I am in error. I bolted the cylinder down, no rings, I put the flywheel on temporarily. I stuck the end of the solder in the spark plug hole until it hit the cylinder. I turned the flywheel until I felt it crunch the solder, took it out and measured. .040. I cut the flat part of solder off and repeated on the other side. .040 again.
Do I need to cut pieces off and stick them to piston, then put cylinder on, or is the way I did it OK?
Thanks again.
And make sure when you do it to rotate it enough to the piston is going back down after top deed center so that way it's a true squish.
 
Since you're not to far ahead I would put solder in the front and back and on both sides at the same time you can do that with a little grease.
OK, I did what you suggested. The squish measured .035, .038, .037 and .035
Should I delete the base gasket or use it. Thanks for your input.
 
Use your math skills here. That allows plenty of room to not use the gasket. You need to understand what you are asking and how it's applied. Did you know the included gasket is 0.5mm thick?

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
If I understood, I wouldn't need to ask.
And no I haven't measured the gasket, I don't know how thick it is
 
If I understood, I wouldn't need to ask.
And no I haven't measured the gasket, I don't know how thick it is
That was obvious. I was trying to encourage you to think it out. That's the best way to learn. The info on the base gasket characteristics are not secret and is an important part of your question.

Your line of questioning was about the availability of space.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
 
That was obvious. I was trying to encourage you to think it out. That's the best way to learn. The info on the base gasket characteristics are not secret and is an important part of your question.

Your line of questioning was about the availability of space.

kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
Please understand that I had never heard of squish until I started reading arborist site last year. I had never taken a saw apart until then, and it was only a clean up and carb rebuild. This is the first time I have ever measured squish and I don't know what is too much or too little for this kit saw. I don't want to make a costly mistake on this, that is why I am asking questions
 
Please understand that I had never heard of squish until I started reading arborist site last year. I had never taken a saw apart until then, and it was only a clean up and carb rebuild. This is the first time I have ever measured squish and I don't know what is too much or too little for this kit saw. I don't want to make a costly mistake on this, that is why I am asking questions
Minimum squish at least for a safe place on these saws would be .022 I really wouldn't push it much more than that so you're really safe with the nombers s that you gave us.
 
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