It is most likely round
Jonsered Chainsaws
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I believe it is from HL Supplies? I know I know buy oem ha ha. Yes that is a big honking spring I probably have a Walbro one around I could swap it for if that would work?
Also in an earlier post you made it sound like the grommeted line is installed from the top down. The one on the saw now was installed from the inside of the tank upwards. So which way is it supposed to be? I will order the line you have linked me to, but I am thoroughly confused the line on the saw has a grommet up against the inside roof of the tank but how would I know if the kind on the saw now is the right one? Thanks for all the help Jeff
Cantdog I am pretty sure that link you sent to me is the same line I have now - new and uninstalled. That new grommeted line is no where near long enough to use all the fuel you would have in the tank. Like I said earlier the longest end of the line is only like 2.5 inches long that would not hang down into the tank very far. I wondered if maybe they had used the wrong line but you say one line will not fit into a saw made for another. I can buy the parts tree line but it looks exactly like the one in the picture below that I own now what do you recommend.
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One more thing I just thought of. If I put in the fuel line I have which looks just like the one at parts tree there is another reason I don't think it will work. If the line only hangs down inside the tank a couple inches I don't think? there will be any way to stretch it enough to reach all the way across the tank to the gas cap opening so I can put a filter on it. My gas line enters the tank all the way across from the gas tank hole. But maybe they all are the same.
In searching the web to see if I could find a video of someone changing the line I found an ad for a 630 gas line from SAW AGAIN . it showed the same line as parts tree but below it , it also said this on later models...
NOTES: LATER FUEL TANKS WITH THESE MODELS USED A DIFFERENT STYLE FUEL LINE AND THIS LINE WOULD NOT BE COMPATIBLE WITH THOSE TANKS. PLEASE CHECKS PICS AND PART NUMBERS TO ENSURE PROPER FITMENT.
In searching the web to see if I could find a video of someone changing the line I found an ad for a 630 gas line from SAW AGAIN . it showed the same line as parts tree but below it , it also said this on later models...
NOTES: LATER FUEL TANKS WITH THESE MODELS USED A DIFFERENT STYLE FUEL LINE AND THIS LINE WOULD NOT BE COMPATIBLE WITH THOSE TANKS. PLEASE CHECKS PICS AND PART NUMBERS TO ENSURE PROPER FITMENT.
If the only line that will fit looks short in the tank...just put a gas rated insert fitting on one end, extend some more hose to the bottom of the gas tank and install a filter. Or...contact sawagain and tell them your problem. They've answered my questions in the past. Scott from chainsawr has been plagued with tire kickers and is shutting down normal communication avenues.
Kevin
Kevin
That is too bad about Scott I just bought a 625 clutch from him it should arrive here today.
Well yes I too have thought about adding a barb if need be then add 3-4 more inches of line. I may be making a whole lot of nothing so not sure what I will do yet .For now the old line is still working.
But the same issue would remain,.. in order to add a few inches more line I would have to be able to get to the line in the first place like I said 2 inches of line into the tank would not be enough to stretch over to the gas cap hole so I could add the barb and add the line extension.
Well yes I too have thought about adding a barb if need be then add 3-4 more inches of line. I may be making a whole lot of nothing so not sure what I will do yet .For now the old line is still working.
But the same issue would remain,.. in order to add a few inches more line I would have to be able to get to the line in the first place like I said 2 inches of line into the tank would not be enough to stretch over to the gas cap hole so I could add the barb and add the line extension.
Jeff, I have the line in my 630 tank that looks short and have run the saw a fair bit with no issues. I wouldn't worry about it.
Put the filter on first and then pull the line through the tank hole. It's easy enough to feed up with a pair of tweezers or long needle nose pliers and grab and pull the grommet through with your fingers.
Stihl 026 saws are similar with the short line.
Put the filter on first and then pull the line through the tank hole. It's easy enough to feed up with a pair of tweezers or long needle nose pliers and grab and pull the grommet through with your fingers.
Stihl 026 saws are similar with the short line.
Tim and Kevin
The carb kits came from Northwoods Saw it was a RK23HS,.. as did the entire build parts list fuel line and Meteor piston and seals.
The carb kits came from Northwoods Saw it was a RK23HS,.. as did the entire build parts list fuel line and Meteor piston and seals.
I just sent Saw Again a message to see if there are basically 2 different lengths of grommeted line. I am betting not but I had to ask. I measured the line it is 5" I would guess the one I have on the saw now is closer to 9 inches. Honestly I did not / cannot measure the line that is on the saw so I am guessing.
Cantdog says pull the line down through the tank from the top if I read his post right? That is one of the reasons I have been having questions. Because it will be too short to stretch over to put on a filter.
But if I do it your way and put the filter on first that may be better. It looks to me the end nearest to the number 5 on the tape measure would get the filter is that right? I assume that way the flat side of the grommet would seal up against the inside top of the fuel tank? and the flared end would have the filter on it. The reason I am asking is Robin said the long end is the one that would go into the tank, that would be the end nearest the number 1. But then doing it that way the conical side of the grommet would have to seal against the inside top of the tank and I don't see that working too well. I appreciate all the advice and don't mean to come off as second guessing anyone trying to help me, I just need to wrap my tiny little brain around it all first!
Cantdog says pull the line down through the tank from the top if I read his post right? That is one of the reasons I have been having questions. Because it will be too short to stretch over to put on a filter.
But if I do it your way and put the filter on first that may be better. It looks to me the end nearest to the number 5 on the tape measure would get the filter is that right? I assume that way the flat side of the grommet would seal up against the inside top of the fuel tank? and the flared end would have the filter on it. The reason I am asking is Robin said the long end is the one that would go into the tank, that would be the end nearest the number 1. But then doing it that way the conical side of the grommet would have to seal against the inside top of the tank and I don't see that working too well. I appreciate all the advice and don't mean to come off as second guessing anyone trying to help me, I just need to wrap my tiny little brain around it all first!
Well, I've never seen a metering spring like the one in your pic on a HS Tilly. I suspect the OE springs are expensive to make and this spring has been substituted in by the Chinese or some similar entity. Whether or not it was meant to have the same spec rating or not, I have no idea...or if the Chinese et al even care. I guess if they had enough complaints, they would care.
I've bought the individual OE springs from ereplacement.com in the past. I have no idea if they are still out there. OE kits are though, for HS carbs.
Kevin
yes I agree I wish I could buy direct from the manufacturer but I guess you cannot. I have bought a bunch of k-10 watt from HL so I figured that is where these came from too but they did no I guess.
Well, I certainly see his point; his employees go out and bring back the parts asked for and the buyer doesn't commit. You do that enough times and you're starting to lose money. Never having been to his business, I don't know his business model, but he was pissed about this.
Kevin
eBay seems well festooned with OE Tilly kits if you're patient.....I found one for the 111S without too much hassle. I've bought aftermarket kits in the past because it didn't really matter, i.e., they worked fine......perhaps that's now an issue. Given what the OE spring looked like compared to what you got, I'd be concerned.
Kevin
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Jeff in your pic of your new fuel line.....the part that goes in the tank is to the left.....ease it down through then reach in with long noised pliers of forcepts which is what I use...pull it down until it seats in the tank.....not in the crankcase but all the way down to the tank. That line will stretch plenty enough to get the filter on. I know it doesn't look like it but it will. Concerning your spring......they are very delicate and carb specific.....don't use one from another carb unless it's from a similar Tilly. I have never got a new spring in any carb kit.....OEM, NOS, or aftermarket. Someone may have lost or destroyed the original spring and just used what they had.
So the cone shaped portion stays above the tank? or you pull it hard enough so the cone shaped portion ends up inside the tank up against the roof? To be clear when you look inside my tank through the gas cap hole you can clearly see the grommet is " inside " the tank. As far as the spring goes I am leaving it as is.
I had e-mailed Saw Again earlier today and asked about this fuel line I have, ( I sent them the same photo you see here) he just wrote back to me he agreed with me that the line I showed in the picture was too short and they sell one that is 6" not 5" so I just ordered one. All I can gather from all the questions I have been asking is that the line in my saw must have been installed backwards. It was installed from the inside of the tank up through the carb box floor and not down through the top like Robin says it was supposed to have been?
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The grometed line goes into the tank from above......the carb box bottom is not the top of the tank.....needs to go through that and then bottom out on the top of the tank.......about a half inch or so in between the two....
Actually, back in the day
the full rebuild Tilly kits had the metering fork spring, the Welsh plugs, the screen, the metering fork, the round holding pin, inlet needle, gaskets and diaphragms. But the spring disappeared from kits decades ago. That's the reason I ordered a bunch of them from ereplacement.com. They seem to last forever, but they do get lost and I had some carb sauce eat one completely!Kevin
Sounds like the Husky 2100...the bulge grommet hangs in the tank and you route the line through the airbox bottom to the carb....making sure it's not pinched in the 'inbetween'.
Kevin
