Jonsered Chainsaws

[Deleted member 150358]

Fuel line cracked?
If not metering needle/seat dirty?

Start eliminating the stupid obvious first.

Accidentally replaced fuel line with oil injection hose for a snowmobile recently. Let the saw sit a couple weeks... The line had got brittle and snapped off in the tank. Took a while to find because I knew the line had been replaced with a new one.

 

[fossil]

630 question
I have been switching between the Dolmar 5105 and the 630 sawing on my woodpile. I am more impressed with the 630 than the dolmar. Anyway here it is when I start the 630 it runs perfect I may saw for 10 min or 30 but then I have to move the wood so I can go again. If I leave the saw running that is fine but if I shut it off it is almost impossible to re-start it. If it sets 1 minute or 10 it makes no difference. Eventually it ends up flooded. Usually if I hold the trigger open it will re-start after 10-20 pulls but today my shoulders just gave out. I have Bursitis in both one previously torn rotator cuff so yanking forever is not possible. What is the cause of this hard restart? Today I gave up on it and used the 5105 to finish. The 630 sat for over an hour before I tried it again still no go. The plug was wet so I changed it but still no go, if it floods you may as well forget it. Other than that I really like the saw. The plug fire is blue and between the best and the worst I have ever seen sort of average I guess. So now it sets in the shop with the plug out maybe it will dry out some. Any suggestions? The saw has cut about 2 cord on a new piston and rings ( cant remember the brand but it has Caber rings the piston is a good one the name just escapes me) it runs great and very strong when you get it running that is ha ha.

Do you have the means to pressure check the metering needle holding pressure? I'm wondering if the needle is leaking and allowing fuel to run through the system and you are getting a very rich fuel charge flowing in when you go to restart it. That will cause it to flood.

If your needle is leaking, the pressure in the fuel tank can push fuel through into the venturi.

 

[taplinhill]

LOL!! I just sent you a PM asking you if you ever had one of these. Sounds like Eric is maybe poor with them.....says a lot about how they run. Are full-wraps out there for these saws...is it a Jonsered/Husky 'shared' thing with other models?

Kevin

Yes, full wraps are out there for the 2171. The cutters edge vent saws all have them. However, the 372 full wrap will not fit. The angle of the brake handle interferes and they won't bolt up to the rear of the tank/handle (different bolt pattern). Here is a picture of one that I rebuilt and sold.

 

[Kensie1988]

LOL!! I just sent you a PM asking you if you ever had one of these. Sounds like Eric is maybe poor with them.....says a lot about how they run. Are full-wraps out there for these saws...is it a Jonsered/Husky 'shared' thing with other models?

Kevin

My full wrap should be in the mail, but a dealer I know up in new york got me one, since they still make these under Redmax it shouldn't be difficult to still get any parts for them, they will just be in redmax packaging

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

 

[Jeff Lary]

Do you have the means to pressure check the metering needle holding pressure? I'm wondering if the needle is leaking and allowing fuel to run through the system and you are getting a very rich fuel charge flowing in when you go to restart it. That will cause it to flood.

If your needle is leaking, the pressure in the fuel tank can push fuel through into the venturi.

no I don't,.. I wondered about the needle myself I rebuilt the carb when I did the new piston. I could tear it down again and look I guess but I hate to.

 

[taplinhill]

no I don't,.. I wondered about the needle myself I rebuilt the carb when I did the new piston. I could tear it down again and look I guess but I hate to.

I had a needle on a 2166 that looked perfect, but that darn thing would leak and flood very similar to the way yours sounds.

 

[albert]

no I don't,.. I wondered about the needle myself I rebuilt the carb when I did the new piston. I could tear it down again and look I guess but I hate to.

I would. Recheck everything. May have a bad/wrong pump diaphram.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Agree....those rubber tipped metering needles are hard to see....often the tip looks OK, but it’s not. The metal ones get wear rings and don’t seat etc.

If you at least have a vacuum MityVac, see if the carb will hold 7” for a few minutes. Better to do about 7psi too if you could.

As was said, make sure all fuel lines are 100%

If all of the above fail, make sure your vent system is not plugged anywhere.

Also on Tilly’s, make sure your diaphram sandwich is correct...the order is different on the carb from top to bottom.

Kevin

 

[Jeff Lary]

I don't have a mighty mite though. As far as the carb goes if the diaphragms were in there in the wrong order it would not run would it? I mean it runs great but if your don't flood it and it will run perfect for the entire tank if you wanted it to but when I shut it down it re-starts hard and sometimes I flood it because after pulling on it 10-15 times without even a pop I choke it as a last resort.

All this being said I am going to the shop right now and will tear the carb down and look at it and change needles if I have one. I do have a confession though that I am very embarrassed to admit. When I bought the parts for the saw I also bought a new fuel line. It was the kind that came looking like a coil spring I think? Maybe it was one with a grommet built into it i cant remember without looking ? in my carb draw there may be both types I will have to look.

The issue is I did not see how I could ever , either get the new line in the tank or get the grommet to seat good? See I have a 625 and a 630 one has one type line and one has the other kind I think. Anyway I never did change the line out and now I am wondering if the line may have a pin hole in it and losing it's prime of fuel after it sets a few minutes. I will get back to you after I see what I have with regards to fuel lines. I have changed many lines but this one and the one in the 625 both gave me pause.

 

[Real1shepherd]

There’s a metal ‘fish’ line with a ring on one end and a hook like barb on the other. It’s cheap and sold for chainsaw fuel line work.

Be sure your vent system is not clogged/bad somehow.

Also, those kits they sell now for the old saws with impulse channels on the intake manifold, give you the wrong carb to intake manifold gasket. Wouldn’t tune or run right though....you say it’s a restart issue.

Kevin

 

[Jeff Lary]

so I am into it some now I have to come into the house to use the computer I have an old one maybe I will take it back out with me. So I have discovered a couple things . First I forgot you have to pull the entire assembly out to get the carb off. The cylinder, muffler, carb assembly. Any way the diaphragm top cover was pretty loose I needed a screwdriver but just barley need it ya know what I mean? The diaphragm had some saw dust on it so maybe the cover was loose enough to cause that. On the metering side there was considerably more sawdust in there. The air filter is in good shape so not sure what is going on? Unless.. between the metering cover and the carb box floor there is supposed to be a rubber bumper and I remember forgetting to re-install that after the rebuild maybe that helps seal around the vent in the metering cover? and without that the vent was not protected and the sawdust got in through there? I do not have a new kit for it but I may have discovered a big slap you right in the face problem. The metering lever is about at a 30* angle from the carb floor. According to my Tilly book the lever is supposed to be flush to the Floor and I think I made it flush to the upper body like in a Walbro. If I am reading this right the lever is at least 1/16 to 3/32 too high. That would definitely cause a flooding situation. I will run out now so I can post a photo of the way it looks now. I am going back to see if I can find one of the bumpers that this saw is missing and do a little cleaning I will be back in a few to see if anyone has any thoughts on the lever. I have Walbro, and Zama carb tools but no tilitson tool but can use a small straight edge from one of these tools to set the height if it needs to be re-set.

 

[Jeff Lary]

As far as fuel line goes I di in fact have 2 one coiled and 1 fitted. I remember reading where either line will fit either 625 or 630. The saw I am working on is the 630 . the line in it now is the fitted with built in grommet. When you look at the line on the saw now it looks to be about 4" from the grommet to the filter. On the new fitted line the distance from the grommet to the filter is about 2.5" maybe. So this is the reason I did not change it when I got the new line. I remember it now. My question is do I have to use the grommeted line or can I use the coiled up one? the coiled up one would be longer I think. If I use the new grommeted one it will only use about 1/2 a tank of gas then the saw will run out because it looks way to short to me. For this reason I still have not removed the in use line yet but I am pretty sure it is past it, it is VERY squishy.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yes, your Tilly is set wrong. Make the fork flush with the carb floor. Do NOT bend the fork in the carb....take it out, refit etc.

Kevin

 

[Jeff Lary]

Thanks Kevin
Well it is all back together and it runs fine. I had a heck of a time to start it even after sitting all night with out the plug in it , it was still flooded. The base was really wet when I had it all apart I blew it out the best I could but it still started hard the first time. After I got it running I left it to idle a while. But after 5 mins or so it stalled out. I though oh &^%$ but then I remembered that I put the hi and low screws back to what they were before I tore it down. I got to thinking about it so I opened up the low speed a little and changed plugs cause the one in it was soaked and black. It started right up so I let it idle about 10 mins then I went out and adjusted it some then shut it off. Now comes the test would it re-start? yes it did and with no issues. So it runs good so far but I know how that goes too , when I get to the woods is when I will know for sure.

As far as the gas line go back and read my previous post, will the curly line work in the 630 or does it have to have the grommet on it? Also can you tell me where to get the "fish line" you spoke about. I usually use forceps' but in this case the fish might be a big help.

 

[Cantdog]

Jeff you can't use the line with the built in grommet in a tank that is for regular or "pig tail" line......the hole in the tank is to small for the grommet.....same the other way around....the pig tail line will fall right through the hole in a tank bored for the grommeted lind. Also no need to tear the top end off to get the carb off.....what you need is a ball end T-handled allen wrench. Glad to got the carb set right....likely run and idle much better now! It also sounds like you have the grommeted line in bass ackwards.....line goes in from above long end down....

 

[Jeff Lary]

Hi Robin,
I have not changed the line yet, the line on the saw is the one that it came to me with. When you look inside my tank through the gas cap hole you see up top tight against the roof of the tank the square grommet like it was fed up from the inside of the tank,..I cannot even imagine that ha ha.

Are you saying the square grommet goes on the outside of the tank and not on the inside as this one is? The replacement line I have with the grommet seems to be about 1/2 as long as it would need to be to reach the bottom of the tank? I do have the ball end Allen wrench set you speak of I never thought to use it. I did think about using an "L" shaped wrench but did not know if the long bolt would have had room to come out anyway. But evidently it would have worked that is a good tip I will remember it thanks Jeff.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Thanks Kevin
Well it is all back together and it runs fine. I had a heck of a time to start it even after sitting all night with out the plug in it , it was still flooded. The base was really wet when I had it all apart I blew it out the best I could but it still started hard the first time. After I got it running I left it to idle a while. But after 5 mins or so it stalled out. I though oh &^%$ but then I remembered that I put the hi and low screws back to what they were before I tore it down. I got to thinking about it so I opened up the low speed a little and changed plugs cause the one in it was soaked and black. It started right up so I let it idle about 10 mins then I went out and adjusted it some then shut it off. Now comes the test would it re-start? yes it did and with no issues. So it runs good so far but I know how that goes too , when I get to the woods is when I will know for sure.

As far as the gas line go back and read my previous post, will the curly line work in the 630 or does it have to have the grommet on it? Also can you tell me where to get the "fish line" you spoke about. I usually use forceps' but in this case the fish might be a big help.

With the Tilly's.....1 1/4-1 1/2 out on LOW. 3/4-1 turn out on HIGH. That's your operating range if you have no air leaks. I tend to run lean from my pro days.

The 'fish' line. It came with some fuel kits I bought....have no idea where now. But I suspect they're easy to be had as a fuel line tool.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Hi Robin,
I have not changed the line yet, the line on the saw is the one that it came to me with. When you look inside my tank through the gas cap hole you see up top tight against the roof of the tank the square grommet like it was fed up from the inside of the tank,..I cannot even imagine that ha ha.

Are you saying the square grommet goes on the outside of the tank and not on the inside as this one is? The replacement line I have with the grommet seems to be about 1/2 as long as it would need to be to reach the bottom of the tank? I do have the ball end Allen wrench set you speak of I never thought to use it. I did think about using an "L" shaped wrench but did not know if the long bolt would have had room to come out anyway. But evidently it would have worked that is a good tip I will remember it thanks Jeff.

Square grommet?? The early 630, 61, 266 etc Husky came with a grommeted line but the grommet is round...later saws 625, 630 Super/II and late 670 had a much smaller hole in the tank and take regular fuel line.
The line with the grommet is part #501 28 59-01 but the new number is 501 28 59-02.....don't know why they changed it...LOL!!

https://www.partstree.com/parts/husqvarna/parts/501285902/

 

[fossil]

For what it's worth, the metering spring sure doesn't look like any HS spring I've seen before. Click on the pics of the lever and have a look.

That can't help either.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Agreed...the OE spring is tiny and the coils are close.

Jeff, where did that kit come from?