.
I’m running 24”, stock rim on the 79xx’s and 20”, stock rims on the 64xx’s. The 79’s do suck more fuel than the 64’s. Leaving them this way for my use.
I walked upstairs last night with a beer in my hand and the wife just looked at me. I used to drink till I blacked out. Once i started i just didn't stop. Nowadays I'm lucky if i have 10 beers in a year. Never felt any physical difference but it maid me feel better about my self when I stopped drinking like I had nothing to live for.No that was pretty normal for me, sometimes 30 or more cans a day at times, sometimes 90 cans in 2 days sometimes more.
I don't mind a drink and can drink hence my decision I had to change and change I did, I don't drink alcohol at all now - I just stopped dead, I don't feel any better for it which is a bit disappointing in some ways but happy for now not to be drinking alcohol.
I have a 24 on the saw now. I dont use it cause I dont want to deal with the extra bar length when most of what I cut doesn't even need a 20. The 8 pin rim idea is more because I like to tinker, kinda how the 3/8lp conversion happened with the 490.
I run a 20 on my ms460. It's a very handy bar length for the wood I cut. I find I can cut 24-28" rounds from one side by overbucking from the top first then coming down. Most wood I cut is 18" or less which is perfect for the 20" bar. Longer bar would be justified if I cut more big wood. Mine has the factory 7 pin, I just file the rakers down some and it pulls it fine. Nice big corn chips! I have heard more experienced guys say to choose a bar longer than 90% of your wood. If you can keep the nose out of the cut, the bar will last longer and not wear right at the nose joint. You'd have to cut a lot more than me to worry about wearing out bars.
I was thinking of using snow fence like a cargo net to hold against the page wire fence. I've been wanting to try building a beehive stack for a while ever since I read this book. Might have to give it a go.
