Is there a duckbill valve in there somewhere like the other ones? How does one of those caps actually vent?
The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread
- Thread starter mad murdock
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Is there a duckbill valve in there somewhere like the other ones? How does one of those caps actually vent?
D
Don't know I was so dejected about braking my cap I never looked at it.
There are several different styles of fuel caps for the 10 Series saws, the ones with the aluminum stem to not seem to be serviceable. The two piece version with the interior that snaps in place are very difficult to get apart.
Mark
Mark
I don't think I even have 1 cap that doesn't atleast leak a little bit.
Did a little experiment today with the 10-10 that came from a scrap yard with the bow bar on it . This saw was completely disgusting! just slam full of saw cake and then sat outside for how many years?Anyway I needed to rebuild the carburetor for it, but I had a spare off a pro mac 55 with the non-adjustable high side that I already rebuilt, and it does quite well idles perfectly and has lots of power. The saw has a 20" full comp and will noodle soft wood of equal size to the bar easily! Seems like the carb is set well when the saw begins to bog it'll do that m-tronic thing were the rpms will flutter then digs for more, must be the larger cavity for the high speed check valve?
Plus replaced my chicken wire chip guard with Mark's, looks a wee bit better.
That's a nice old saw. Its amazing what gets pulled out of the scrap. My pm10-10 looks very similar and it was heading to the scrap bin luckily it never made that trip.
My 700 came out of the scrap bin and it's still a great saw after lots of TLC.
The throw away people of society get this stuff and it's gone generally unless us dumpster divers rescue them.
That 10-10 will live for many many many more years serving it's new owner almost like it owes it to ya.
Those screens of Mark's really are just the ticket
My 700 came out of the scrap bin and it's still a great saw after lots of TLC.
The throw away people of society get this stuff and it's gone generally unless us dumpster divers rescue them.
That 10-10 will live for many many many more years serving it's new owner almost like it owes it to ya.
Those screens of Mark's really are just the ticket
That SDC-49 on your saw has a larger venturi (+1.5mm) and likely has a larger jet size on the high side than your stock 10-10 carb. I believe the SDC-49 was also used on one of the 62cc versions as well. I think all the capillary screen wells are the same size and use the same screen but the jet holes will change.
Mark's sawdust guards definitely look better than the chicken wire but no one is sure if it will keep the chickens out yet. Report back on that.
Old right hand pull tank. 57cc engine and cherry picked other parts out of the 10 series Lego box to get it running. Still haven't cut with it yet waiting on wood and chain
Looks great !,you dont hardly notice that decomp button. Sometimes I forget that it's there on mine but it sure nice if I'm cutting and stacking fire wood ,start,stop,start and stop. What's the gauge on your new bar?
Jet is stamped 32, what I meant is the pocket between the bottom of the jet threads and the port into the venturi is larger than the space between the port and the black rubber check valves I've changed in the past.
But the perceived power increase could be just the larger bore.
Thanks yeah it's kinda stealth mode with a black button on it. Was grumpy about the black oil tank but now its grown on me a bit and I left the later black starter cap on as it has most of its paint and matches the new tank and the black on the air box lid.
The bar is 058 I've got a few 050 chains but only 1 050 20 incher now. My other 050 is the 32 so might buy a roll of 058 but... chisel or semi hmmmm.
The decomp valve seems a bit far fetched for 57cc but mind you my grandfather will love it he struggles to start the pm10-10. 73 years young but shoulder's are poked
Decomps on smaller cc saws aren't necessarily just there for grandpas and pussies . One needs to consider wear and tear on a starter assembly relative to the actual compression. My 346xp and a couple of my Husky 55's come to mind. Stout-ass little rascals. I can certainly start them without the decomp but I use the feature anyway because it's there and easier on the saw.
Yeah I'm hearing ya same starter on the 800 yet they forgot the decomp on that though.
My 4000 could do with 1 especially with its plastic pulley.
Does your 800 have a "Q" port? That was supposed to ease starting comp.
Certainly does but it's still a monster to pull over. Especially when its flooded with a dodgy carb
10-10 showed up last week. Initial diagnosis is no spark, but pulls over with good compression and looks good from the spark plug hole. Has paint over spray, but that came off with some mineral spirits. Looks to be low use. I suspect the ignition quit and it got parked.
Good job the Ebay gamble was worth it
Nevar242
ArboristSite Lurker
Any Idea of A reliable source for A Carb or Carb re-build kit Page 61 Post # 1216. Got burned on E-bay once or twice Thanks
Bills place on Amazon is usually where I get mine ,rebuild kits.
So I tore into the pro 10-10A last night to diagnose the no spark issue. Points looked good but I already have a chip so I yarded them out. The coil wire was bad so I replaced it with an automotive one. My question is what’s the spec for the ohms of resistance in the coil when checking from the coil wire to the core? I have it back together and still no spark. Didn’t check flywheel air gap either. Anyways I shelved it for the night and put the NOS bar on the PM10-10 just to feel like I accomplished something lol. 
