Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you want to spiffy it up, grab a 24" lightweight from @redbull660. Great prices on those tsumura bars. I've been running that Archer chain he sells to. Good stuff.
Gettin’ greedy - longer bar or larger sprocket?
- Thread starter JW51
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Yeah, I bought one from him in 20”. Very nice.
If I buy a 24” it will probably be the opposite of spiffy. At least until I see how it works.
Interesting.
I suppose speed loss is mostly the matter of how many teeth are engaged in the log at any given moment? Maybe some additional frictional loss on the longer bar?
362 is a big fat box, fugly!!! Work on one
I would not run my 036s with an 8 tooth, and they will tolerate but don't like a 25" bar.
8 tooth on my 038M or 066, but only with a short bar, this is hardwood
ak maple ash beech birch
I would not run my 036s with an 8 tooth, and they will tolerate but don't like a 25" bar.
8 tooth on my 038M or 066, but only with a short bar, this is hardwood
ak maple ash beech birch
Here’s the video. He uses a 461 and runs bars from 20” to 36” on it. The interesting thing is there is virtually no difference in speed from 20-28” and even the 32” and 36” bars only slow it down about 1-2 seconds in 22” oak.
Now a 362’s is going to be smaller, so I would imagine a 24” bar is probably closer to ideal for it.
To the 362’s ability to oil a longer bar. I’ve seen some mention of a 362 swap/upgrade to a 460 pump. Does anyone have any direct knowledge of how that works? Just bolt it right up? Is it still adjustable at that point?
I can vouch for @redbull660 as well. I paid for my bar on a Friday morning and it was in my hands at 9 am Monday morning. Cannot beat that.
Ryan, have you tried the Archer 3/8 low profile full chisel chain yet?
cus_deluxe
Commie Satan turd
@JW51 , this is the best advice in this whole thread.
From the Show Me state. Have to learn lessons the hard way sometimes.
Setting aside the 20” for the moment because it was in smaller wood. Interesting that 28” was kind of a “sweet spot”.
The tip sticking out further clears the chips a bit quicker?
I want a strong 20” and a 24” I can live with when needed.
buttercup
Addicted to ArboristSite
Then 60cc is your game.
I would prefer 18" though, because it is unquestionable strong. Besides, it is practical. Handy, if you like.
A regular 24" bar puts the 362's balance point too far forwards. That means you're always fighting the saw a little except when it's in a cut. It adds up over a day. A lightweight one might help a little but I think that it's not enough lighter to fix the balance. A lot of the weight is in the chain and the light bar doesn't help that.
You should buy a 24" bar and use it on the 362. Then you'll already have a bar and chain for a larger Stihl when you realize that the 362's not cutting it (so to speak) in big wood.
You should buy a 24" bar and use it on the 362. Then you'll already have a bar and chain for a larger Stihl when you realize that the 362's not cutting it (so to speak) in big wood.
Brilliant!
I’ve got both a 72cc saw with a 28” bar and a 76cc saw with a 28” bar, both running .404 chain and they both seem to do alright. No way would I want to run them with 20” bars.
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
Come over to the Midwest and get a truck load of 16-20" white oak logs delivered. If you want to buck them to 16" lengths for firewood a 70cc saw and a 20" bar will fast become your friend. No big spikes or wrap handle necessary, just something to make quick work of bucking hardwood.
Yes bolts right up and well worth it. I put the 461R model pump on my 362 thats ported and at max it runs tank for tank.
