Gettin’ greedy - longer bar or larger sprocket?

[Ryan'smilling]

If you want to spiffy it up, grab a 24" lightweight from @redbull660. Great prices on those tsumura bars. I've been running that Archer chain he sells to. Good stuff.

 

[JW51]

If you want to spiffy it up, grab a 24" lightweight from @redbull660. Great prices on those tsumura bars. I've been running that Archer chain he sells to. Good stuff.

Yeah, I bought one from him in 20”. Very nice.

If I buy a 24” it will probably be the opposite of spiffy. At least until I see how it works.

 

[JW51]

I would go with a longer, lightweight bar. It won’t speed you up, but you’ll be able to cut bigger wood and you won’t have to bend over as much. The longer the bar the more you notice the difference in weight.

Also, after watching some of Redbull661’s bar comparison videos it seemed that at a certain point there was often very little or no speed gained with shorter bars. If the saw had the balls to pull a 28” bar, then switching to a 24” or 20” bar made almost no difference. At some length it’s going to be pulling the chain at top speed and after that going to a shorter bar won’t make a difference.

Interesting.

I suppose speed loss is mostly the matter of how many teeth are engaged in the log at any given moment? Maybe some additional frictional loss on the longer bar?

 

[Mad Professor]

362 is a big fat box, fugly!!! Work on one

I would not run my 036s with an 8 tooth, and they will tolerate but don't like a 25" bar.

8 tooth on my 038M or 066, but only with a short bar, this is hardwoodak maple ash beech birch

 

[Remle]

Interesting.

I suppose speed loss is mostly the matter of how many teeth are engaged in the log at any given moment? Maybe some additional frictional loss on the longer bar?

Here’s the video. He uses a 461 and runs bars from 20” to 36” on it. The interesting thing is there is virtually no difference in speed from 20-28” and even the 32” and 36” bars only slow it down about 1-2 seconds in 22” oak.

Now a 362’s is going to be smaller, so I would imagine a 24” bar is probably closer to ideal for it.

 

[JW51]

To the 362’s ability to oil a longer bar. I’ve seen some mention of a 362 swap/upgrade to a 460 pump. Does anyone have any direct knowledge of how that works? Just bolt it right up? Is it still adjustable at that point?

 

[svk]

If you want to spiffy it up, grab a 24" lightweight from @redbull660. Great prices on those tsumura bars. I've been running that Archer chain he sells to. Good stuff.

I can vouch for @redbull660 as well. I paid for my bar on a Friday morning and it was in my hands at 9 am Monday morning. Cannot beat that.

Ryan, have you tried the Archer 3/8 low profile full chisel chain yet?

 

[cus_deluxe]

Stock 362 ?
24" bar ?
8 tooth ?

No.

@JW51 , this is the best advice in this whole thread.

 

[buttercup]

50cc, 16" bar is ok. 60cc, 18" bar is ok, 70cc, 20" bar is ok. You want 24"?

 

[JW51]

50cc, 16" bar is ok. 60cc, 18" bar is ok, 70cc, 20" bar is ok. You want 24"?

From the Show Me state. Have to learn lessons the hard way sometimes.

 

[buttercup]

Well, you want a strong 18", or a weak 24"?

 

[JW51]

Here’s the video. He uses a 461 and runs bars from 20” to 36” on it. The interesting thing is there is virtually no difference in speed from 20-28” and even the 32” and 36” bars only slow it down about 1-2 seconds in 22” oak.

Now a 362’s is going to be smaller, so I would imagine a 24” bar is probably closer to ideal for it.

Setting aside the 20” for the moment because it was in smaller wood. Interesting that 28” was kind of a “sweet spot”.

The tip sticking out further clears the chips a bit quicker?

 

[JW51]

Well, you want a strong 18", or a weak 24"?

I want a strong 20” and a 24” I can live with when needed.

 

[buttercup]

I want a strong 20” and a 24” I can live with when needed.

Then 60cc is your game.
I would prefer 18" though, because it is unquestionable strong. Besides, it is practical. Handy, if you like.

 

[buttercup]

Your buddy says; I've got a brand new 262 with an 18" bar - it's an awesome penis enlargment, and you reply; yeah, I run an 18" too...

 

[ericm979]

A regular 24" bar puts the 362's balance point too far forwards. That means you're always fighting the saw a little except when it's in a cut. It adds up over a day. A lightweight one might help a little but I think that it's not enough lighter to fix the balance. A lot of the weight is in the chain and the light bar doesn't help that.

You should buy a 24" bar and use it on the 362. Then you'll already have a bar and chain for a larger Stihl when you realize that the 362's not cutting it (so to speak) in big wood.

 

[JW51]

A regular 24" bar puts the 362's balance point too far forwards. That means you're always fighting the saw a little except when it's in a cut. It adds up over a day. A lightweight one might help a little but I think that it's not enough lighter to fix the balance. A lot of the weight is in the chain and the light bar doesn't help that.

You should buy a 24" bar and use it on the 362. Then you'll already have a bar and chain for a larger Stihl when you realize that the 362's not cutting it (so to speak) in big wood.

Brilliant!

 

[Remle]

50cc, 16" bar is ok. 60cc, 18" bar is ok, 70cc, 20" bar is ok. You want 24"?

I’ve got both a 72cc saw with a 28” bar and a 76cc saw with a 28” bar, both running .404 chain and they both seem to do alright. No way would I want to run them with 20” bars.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I’ve got both a 72cc saw with a 28” bar and a 76cc saw with a 28” bar, both running .404 chain and they both seem to do alright. No way would I want to run them with 20” bars.

Come over to the Midwest and get a truck load of 16-20" white oak logs delivered. If you want to buck them to 16" lengths for firewood a 70cc saw and a 20" bar will fast become your friend. No big spikes or wrap handle necessary, just something to make quick work of bucking hardwood.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

To the 362’s ability to oil a longer bar. I’ve seen some mention of a 362 swap/upgrade to a 460 pump. Does anyone have any direct knowledge of how that works? Just bolt it right up? Is it still adjustable at that point?

Yes bolts right up and well worth it. I put the 461R model pump on my 362 thats ported and at max it runs tank for tank.