Gettin’ greedy - longer bar or larger sprocket?

[noodlewalker]

Oh I thought you were kidding....

Nah, not at all... I love this kind of thing. Max it out and see what happens, just put it on video... That's how I roll. Hell, I would send you a lengthened chain and the 10 pin if you want it... I just want to see how it goes

 

[Huskybill]

I like 16”/18” bars with 8 pin rims.

 

[cuinrearview]

Eight pin and up rims with 3/8 is almost always ported saw, way over-barring, or race setup. I did an eight on an ms460 with a 20" once firewooding. It was cute but not practical unless your chain is on point, and then you're constantly touching it up. Throwing more bar or rim at a stock saw reminds me of putting a fart can on a four cylinder car. If you want to have more fun in the woods I would look at learning how to file a nice chain, modding the pathetic opening in the 362 muffler, or advancing the timing.

 

[Huskybill]

I’m not familiar with this saw is there a over speed govenor that you can plug?
All three of my stock cutting saws had the govenor plugged. But with one pin larger rim, shorter bar the chain needs to be kept razor sharp all the time. You will increase productivity.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I’m not familiar with this saw is there a over speed govenor that you can plug?
All three of my stock cutting saws had the govenor plugged. But with one pin larger rim, shorter bar the chain needs to be kept razor sharp all the time. You will increase productivity.

No governor on the 362, per se. The carb is controlled by a computer which adjusts the fuel mix to keep the rpms at a safe speed. Not sure, but there may also be a limited coil, not that that will affect rpm in the wood.

 

[Brent Nowell]

I tried the larger a sprocket myself on my 395. I noticed even with the Oiler maxed on a 24” bar, the chain got real real hot in softwood. Surprisingly I did not see an increased speed either, this was with full comp chisel.

I always wondered if full skip would fair better with the larger sprokets...

 

[John Lyngdal]

I have a 10 pin sprocket I would send you for the cost of shipping.... "Faster is funner" right? Why not really amp it up??? Just be sure to post before and after video

Have a 9 pin but would love to try a 10 pin on my 660 with a 20" bar just because.....

 

[noodlewalker]

Have a 9 pin but would love to try a 10 pin on my 660 with a 20" bar just because.....

That's what I used it for was on my 660. But it was with a 42" bar so I had to oil the pizz out of it. I don't know that you would notice a large jump in speed from 9 to 10 though. I prefer tourque to speed, so I have no use for the 10 anymore... I was just like you in that aspect, I just wanted to see what it would do. Pm me we can work it out

 

[mcobb2]

I don't think a 8T would be a good option on the 362 unless you were basically limbing with it. Even though it feels strong now an 8 tooth would really drop a load on that saw imho. I would be leaning towards a longer bar before I did a sprocket just know that a 24/25" bar is literally max on the oiling capacity on a 362 and will still come out dry if you get into a dry dry wood like ash.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

Stock 362 ?
24" bar ?
8 tooth ?

No.

 

[BangBang77]

OP, you're chasing a pipe dream. A Piltz pipe dream at that...

You want faster cutting with a 362? A muffler mod and timing advance will get you a little, porting plus those will get you quite a bit more. Increasing the drive sprocket will gain nothing, increasing the bar length won't either. You will lose torque with both attempts.

Just my two cents.

 

[JW51]

All:

If you couldn’t tell by all the disclaimers, hypotheticals, and wiggle words in both the title and original post...I know that I’m being a little foolish here. Thanks for bearing with me and thanks for all the feedback.

Although, there was a pretty strong consensus against both ideas....I was surprised to learn that the strongest consensus was against the sprocket change. Didn't know that moving up one size was such a a drastic change.

If I happen to come across the right deal on a 24” bar (like a used one for very little $)....I might still try one just to play with. The fellow who mentioned the oiler made a very good point. Bar oiling might actually be the biggest limiting factor here. The 362 oiler kinda sucks. That, and the mushy feel of the kill/start switch are really my only two complaints with the saw.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

All:

If you couldn’t tell by all the disclaimers, hypotheticals, and wiggle words in both the title and original post...I know that I’m being a little foolish here. Thanks for bearing with me and thanks for all the feedback.

Although, there was a pretty strong consensus against both ideas....I was surprised to learn that the strongest consensus was against the sprocket change. Didn't know that moving up one size was such a a drastic change.

If I happen to come across the right deal on a 24” bar (like a used one for very little $)....I might still try one just to play with. The fellow who mentioned the oiler made a very good point. Bar oiling might actually be the biggest limiting factor here. The 362 oiler kinda sucks. That, and the mushy feel of the kill/start switch are really my only two complaints with the saw.

It will do ok with 84 drivers on a 7 tooth if you don't push it.

Open the muffler up.

 

[JW51]

It will do ok with 84 drivers on a 7 tooth if you don't push it.

Open the muffler up.

Yes sir. Probably wait a bit on muffler mod. I think my warranty is up in June.

Skip tooth with the longer bar?

 

[noodlewalker]

All:

If you couldn’t tell by all the disclaimers, hypotheticals, and wiggle words in both the title and original post...I know that I’m being a little foolish here. Thanks for bearing with me and thanks for all the feedback.

Although, there was a pretty strong consensus against both ideas....I was surprised to learn that the strongest consensus was against the sprocket change. Didn't know that moving up one size was such a a drastic change.

If I happen to come across the right deal on a 24” bar (like a used one for very little $)....I might still try one just to play with. The fellow who mentioned the oiler made a very good point. Bar oiling might actually be the biggest limiting factor here. The 362 oiler kinda sucks. That, and the mushy feel of the kill/start switch are really my only two complaints with the saw.

I get what you want to do, but many people on this site will not advise stepping outside of the written limits of any one particular saw.. it is for the most part their profession and they don't want to see anything get broken or most of all someone get hurt.... So their advice is based on those perameters. I'm all for pushing the limits in the interest of learning what you "can" do. If you feel yours can handle it, do what you feel it can do... Just be safe.... My offer is still here if you want to explore the larger sprocket. Good luck with it and let us know how it goes.

 

[Stem450Husky]

Have a 9 pin but would love to try a 10 pin on my 660 with a 20" bar just because.....

ran a 9 pin on my 650 & an 18" bar, talk about interesting LOL

 

[mcobb2]

ran a 9 pin on my 650 & an 18" bar, talk about interesting LOL

I have a 10T on a 20" bar right now to keep my firewood cut.

 

[mcobb2]

Yes sir. Probably wait a bit on muffler mod. I think my warranty is up in June.

Skip tooth with the longer bar?

My personal preference is I never have been keen on the way skip chain feeds when bore cutting. Also in my penny pinching theory is skip is the same price as full comp; why pay the same price for less cutters? Call me dumb but that's just my .02 in monopoly money at that.

 

[mcobb2]

It will do ok with 84 drivers on a 7 tooth if you don't push it.

Open the muffler up.

I second Ryan's motion... raker height can make or break this series of events.

 

[Remle]

I would go with a longer, lightweight bar. It won’t speed you up, but you’ll be able to cut bigger wood and you won’t have to bend over as much. The longer the bar the more you notice the difference in weight.

Also, after watching some of Redbull661’s bar comparison videos it seemed that at a certain point there was often very little or no speed gained with shorter bars. If the saw had the balls to pull a 28” bar, then switching to a 24” or 20” bar made almost no difference. At some length it’s going to be pulling the chain at top speed and after that going to a shorter bar won’t make a difference.