Proper storage for saws and other equipment

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Here it comes! Lol. You could fog them, pull on cords with switch off when you go out to the barn just to move piston
 
southpaw said:
North and California Westside Chicago , we call it the Capitol of Illinois Lol
Yes I know Woodstock that's a really nice area
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I use to hang on the south side with some friends from Marquete Park area as a teen! Yikes! Chicago a great city, kinda scary now where ever you go!
 
Stateline Sawer said:
Yes a year at a time would be pushing it! Plus in Wisconsin, it seems they have ethanol free option, but outta a shared pump...how much ethanol 87 octane you getting before lines clear??
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lone wolf said:
Prob if you use non E! For best results dump them all out 6 months later and add new fuel and run . Always start them and get the new mix in the carb. I have lots of saws and this works well.
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Shared pump just pump about 5 gallons in your vehicle tank then pump to your gas can. Even if it is not shared I pump 5 gallons into vehicle.

As mentioned run non ethanol if possible. You can drain tank and run dry or leave the tank full. As Lone wolf mentioned drain gas left in the tank for long periods of time and add fresh when wanting to use. If you are in a humid location then Ethanol wants to absorb moisture out of the air.

Where you store them makes a difference like put them up on a shelf and not on a cold concrete surface where the reaction can eat away at the case metal.

Just a interesting note that running them dry there is still some fuel left in the carburetor in with the diaphragm. As mentioned if you are worried about those parts aging and being effected by ethanol than as suggested sea foam or product could help extend life of the carb. The carburetor is your biggest concern for small engines and is what keeps motors from preforming. It keeps shops in business putting a carb kit or new carb to make the owner happy. Just keep your fuel clean and fresh either ethanol or non ethanol.
 
Another thing about pump fuel. Note when your area changes over from winter grade to summer grade fuel. Winter fuel will burn hotter and in hotter temperature you don't want that in your chainsaw. If you stored winter grade and 2 or three months latter you want to use your chainsaw. Hopefully it is still cool outside....
 
PV Hiker said:
Another thing about pump fuel. Note when your area changes over from winter grade to summer grade fuel. Winter fuel will burn hotter and in hotter temperature you don't want that in your chainsaw. If you stored winter grade and 2 or three months latter you want to use your chainsaw. Hopefully it is still cool outside....
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I doubt they are doing anything with our rec. fuel from season to season out here as far as fuel formulations go.
 
PV Hiker said:
Shared pump just pump about 5 gallons in your vehicle tank then pump to your gas can. Even if it is not shared I pump 5 gallons into vehicle.

As mentioned run non ethanol if possible. You can drain tank and run dry or leave the tank full. As Lone wolf mentioned drain gas left in the tank for long periods of time and add fresh when wanting to use. If you are in a humid location then Ethanol wants to absorb moisture out of the air.

Where you store them makes a difference like put them up on a shelf and not on a cold concrete surface where the reaction can eat away at the case metal.

Just a interesting note that running them dry there is still some fuel left in the carburetor in with the diaphragm. As mentioned if you are worried about those parts aging and being effected by ethanol than as suggested sea foam or product could help extend life of the carb. The carburetor is your biggest concern for small engines and is what keeps motors from preforming. It keeps shops in business putting a carb kit or new carb to make the owner happy. Just keep your fuel clean and fresh either ethanol or non ethanol.
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Those underground fuel line hold 4-5 gallons of fuel before you get what your actually paying for! Also never fuel up when you see the tanker truck dumping (refuelling the tanks)!
 
To me this is a multi tiered question. Short term storage I do nothing special. All my fuel is treated it goes up on the shelf in the basement (walk out, always temp controlled as we use it as a wreck room as well) I consider this to be 6 to 8 month storage. More or less same applies to the stuff stored outdoors in non temp controlled environment. Now long term storage is anything over 8 months of storage. Double dose of fuel stabilizer, marvel mystery oil in the fuel. Run it out of fuel and fog the cylinder. I've also recently started spraying the snow blowers, tillers, and the like down with PFC to any areas I'm worried about rust or oxidation. Weve done this for years on outboard engines and it's worked wonderfully for us, so I figured it was dumb that I wasnt doing it to my seldom used power equipment. Seems to be helping quite a bit. I do to run from time to time if I'm keeping fuel in them during storage but that doesnt always happen.
 
PV Hiker said:
Shared pump just pump about 5 gallons in your vehicle tank then pump to your gas can. Even if it is not shared I pump 5 gallons into vehicle.

As mentioned run non ethanol if possible. You can drain tank and run dry or leave the tank full. As Lone wolf mentioned drain gas left in the tank for long periods of time and add fresh when wanting to use. If you are in a humid location then Ethanol wants to absorb moisture out of the air.

Where you store them makes a difference like put them up on a shelf and not on a cold concrete surface where the reaction can eat away at the case metal.

Just a interesting note that running them dry there is still some fuel left in the carburetor in with the diaphragm. As mentioned if you are worried about those parts aging and being effected by ethanol than as suggested sea foam or product could help extend life of the carb. The carburetor is your biggest concern for small engines and is what keeps motors from preforming. It keeps shops in business putting a carb kit or new carb to make the owner happy. Just keep your fuel clean and fresh either ethanol or non ethanol.
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Ethanol/moisture just a killer for fuel lines/carbs. Just a fact. I bring equipment back to life weekly based on this!
 
sean donato said:
To me this is a multi tiered question. Short term storage I do nothing special. All my fuel is treated it goes up on the shelf in the basement (walk out, always temp controlled as we use it as a wreck room as well) I consider this to be 6 to 8 month storage. More or less same applies to the stuff stored outdoors in non temp controlled environment. Now long term storage is anything over 8 months of storage. Double dose of fuel stabilizer, marvel mystery oil in the fuel. Run it out of fuel and fog the cylinder. I've also recently started spraying the snow blowers, tillers, and the like down with PFC to any areas I'm worried about rust or oxidation. Weve done this for years on outboard engines and it's worked wonderfully for us, so I figured it was dumb that I wasnt doing it to my seldom used power equipment. Seems to be helping quite a bit. I do to run from time to time if I'm keeping fuel in them during storage but that doesnt always happen.
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You speak true. I like seafoam, I've used the Mystery oil as well in the past. Plus I always give equipment a nice shake if fuel is left in!
 
I have had good results using stable "storage" keeping non ethanol gasoline fresh for over 2 years in portable generators and 5 gallon containers. I run them dry until they shut off then pull the handle a few times then fill the tank to the top. Small equipment gets run dry and stored dry when I know it will not be used for many months. Any leftover 2 cycle mixed gas gets dumped in a car tank and empty fuel cans get left with the cap off for a few days because in the summer here vapors will balloon tanks badly and draw moisture into tanks not stored full.
 
What I do is mix up a bit of Aviation Fuel(100LL) mixed 32:1 with a mineral based TCW3 marine oil. Run the saw enough(1/2 tank) to circulate the avgas mix through the carb and motor completely. Then while the motor is running remove the air filter and spray fogging oil into the carb throat until the motor dies. Dump the fuel out of the tank and leave the cap off until the tank is dry.
You can store stuff for many years without issue using this method.
Also leave the saw in a cool, dry place and dont leave it on a concrete floor.
 

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