Poulan Countervibe 3400 "Fun"!

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Hi,
Thanks, there is another 3400 at my local ECHO Dealer, where I got these Saws, but...

The Owner won't sell it to me till June as the Owner has to be given so much time to pick it up. (it is not working and the Shop will not rebuild an OEM Carb or put in a cheap Chinese one.)

If I had that saw, I could swap somethings and see what that produced, but here I am.

Gonna go ahead and do some more testing just for the education value!
 
It may just be the angle the pic is taken on, but it looks like the gasket is slightly encroaching on the recess the spring for the metering lever sits in... If that was to bind then it could stop the metering valve opening.
When you took the carb apart (after trying to run the saw) was there fuel in the metering chamber?
 
It may just be the angle the pic is taken on, but it looks like the gasket is slightly encroaching on the recess the spring for the metering lever sits in... If that was to bind then it could stop the metering valve opening.
When you took the carb apart (after trying to run the saw) was there fuel in the metering chamber?
Hi,
Thanks, I'll look at that after, I put the Check Valve in and put it back together.

Easy enough to cut it a hair so there is no problem!
 
Seems like a bunch is work. I don’t want to discount anyone’s passion, but what are these saw actually worth? Seems like herculean effort for a saw like this. Is there any value to these things or is it just all for fun?
My favorite firewood saw, for starters.
 
Seems like a bunch is work. I don’t want to discount anyone’s passion, but what are these saw actually worth? Seems like herculean effort for a saw like this. Is there any value to these things or is it just all for fun?
Hi,
Just for background, I'm a retired Merchant Marine Engineer.

I sailed 20 years on Deck and then went into the Engine Room 20 more years.

Marine Engineers, have a "funny" job, as you are working on a toilet leak, one day, and then a 2-stroke Diesel Engine, you could not fit, into your house the next!

Chainsaws are interesting to me as they seem to be so finicky, and everything has to do it's part ,for the darn thing to work at all. (my opinion!)

I always thought Poulans were junk and when I bought my first real Chainsaw, 25 years ago, to keep from paying for tree service, I bought a Stihl 026 PRO, and still have it, but...

These green Poulan 3400's seem like pretty solid saws and seem to be popular.

Admittedly, this one is throwing me some curves, but that is the "fun", to me.

If I got an old orphan saw and all I had to do was throw in a carb kit and it ran like a top, I would get bored pretty quick!
2-stroke.jpeg
 
Echo an Shindaiwa are the same thing except for the plastic.
Hi,
Thanks, I knew that, but thought the Shindaiwa was a wee bit, better quality, but maybe not?

It is a big strong running string trimmer that I'm talking about, and I was impresed with it, as I bought it out of a ECHO Dealers junk pile for $5!
 
Hi,
Well got what I needed to pressure test the saw and I'm blowing bubbles on the drive/clutch side of the crankcase seal!

Hope that is the problem with the Saw cutting out?

I have the seals and will replace both.

Has been a trial, trying to get the correct rings for this Saw.

Finally broke down and ordered a set from the Greek, fair price but will be awhile to get here.

I'm going to just see if I can get the saw running for now and when I get the rings, might go ahead and do the gasket delete while replacing rings for best compression!

This has been interesting anyway and an education on vintage saws!
bubbles.jpg
 
Hi
I am at the end of my Tether, as my Brit Friend says!

I replaced the Crankcase seal and now the crankcase test good for pressure and vacuum.

However the Saw is still doing the same thing.

I've run out of options, everything tests good but the saw won't run.

There is another 3400, I'm trying to get and maybe with that one...

I can swap parts and see what that tells me.

The carb is pulling fuel, if the Coil wasn't so expensive, I would buy one even though this one test fine.

The timing is good, key is straight.

Fuel vent with new duckbill.

Enough compression, just can't see what the problem is?
 
Hi
I am at the end of my Tether, as my Brit Friend says!

I replaced the Crankcase seal and now the crankcase test good for pressure and vacuum.

However the Saw is still doing the same thing.

I've run out of options, everything tests good but the saw won't run.

There is another 3400, I'm trying to get and maybe with that one...

I can swap parts and see what that tells me.

The carb is pulling fuel, if the Coil wasn't so expensive, I would buy one even though this one test fine.

The timing is good, key is straight.

Fuel vent with new duckbill.

Enough compression, just can't see what the problem is?
I believe that you may be able to fit an aftermarket husqvarna 55 coil to that saw and they are cheap.
 
Nice tip....
Hi,
Be careful and look at the pics!

A lot of the ones I'm seeing is the sparkplug lead is to short and the laminations that the retaining screws mount in are to long.

Just sayin, keep a sharp eye.

I'm still looking for one that looks like a good fit.

Also where the main lead comes out of the coil, has to be "flat" with no protusion or the cover will not fit!

Surprised, not more established info on these saws as well liked as they are?
 
108 psi is too low to maintain adequate vacuum for fuel atomization, 120psi is the absolute minimum and even at that number it may still die at idle. Piston to cylinder clearance is also a factor in sealing so do not overlook this when it is apart. You may find the rings are gummed and stuck in the ring grooves from sitting or the cylinder/piston may be scored in spots unable to be seen through the muffler/intake port
 
108 psi is too low to maintain adequate vacuum for fuel atomization, 120psi is the absolute minimum and even at that number it may still die at idle. Piston to cylinder clearance is also a factor in sealing so do not overlook this when it is apart. You may find the rings are gummed and stuck in the ring grooves from sitting or the cylinder/piston may be scored in spots unable to be seen through the muffler/intake port
Hi,
Thanks, i have a set of Caber rings on the ship heading this way.

Might just stop on this one and wait till I can get into it further.

Something is bad wrong somewhere, and your Cylinder/Piston Theory, maybe right!

The previous owner of this saw, was a ECHO Dealer Shop, and they used it to cut up wooden pallets...

So it was rode pretty hard, I guess!
 
Hi,
Anyone know what cylinder clearance is on this Saw???

I have the Service Manual, but not a lot of Tech Info, in there.

Of course if the C/P is pooched?
 
The 3400 and 3800 (thick ring chrome piston) saws are always lower on compression in that series compared to the 3700, 395, 4000 which tested 140-150 psi. The best I got out of the thick ring saws was 135psi, average was 125-130. 108 is too low even for those saws.
 
The 3400 and 3800 (thick ring chrome piston) saws are always lower on compression in that series compared to the 3700, 395, 4000 which tested 140-150 psi. The best I got out of the thick ring saws was 135psi, average was 125-130. 108 is too low even for those saws.
That sounds about right. I had a 3400 that I converted to a 3800. 3400 was low at around 100 psi and the 3800 with new rings is now around 120-125.
 
Hi,
Anyone know what cylinder clearance is on this Saw???

I have the Service Manual, but not a lot of Tech Info, in there.

Of course if the C/P is pooched?

Should be maximum of 0.004” bore clearance, so the piston skirt should measure 1.876” minimum for the 1.880” nominal bore you’ve got.

The ignition coils are available on fleabay for $25 shipped used OEM, cheapskate priced.
 

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