Husqvarna Sticky!

[J D]

HL supply has them listed as new addition. Any idea what that means and do I have to do any changes at the intake or carburetor?


Thanks. Jason.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/346xp-cylinder-kit.222221/To summarize, I believe the original 346xp was 45cc & ran a 42mm piston (OE). Mid 2007 it became a 49cc saw running a 44.3mm piston (NE).
There are also 45mm kits sold "for them" but these are really 350/353 kits.
For best performance you want an OEM 44.3mm (NE) kit.
Be sure to replace the clamp on the inlet manifold with the updated metal one, & do a pressure/vac test as some can be a bugger to get to seal.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Perfect! Thank you.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Always fun wheeling, dealing and trading saws, parts, bars, chains etc etc. All party’s happy.
2016 OE 372xp mahle topend. 372 just getting ready to start 3rd tank.

 

[Sawdust Man]

Donno if this is the right place for questions but....
Is there an adapter to use a regular size Stihl bar on a small mount husky (k095)?

 

[DWilkison]

Finally caught a break! Picked up a 44 for $40 Cdn excellent P&C just Very DIRTY. Good compression too. Came with a 16" bar and chain in not bad nick.

Hello leecopland, I just picked up an older white top 44 for $5. Just got it running. I believe it’s an 81’. (Sorry, I see this is an older thread, new to ArboristSite.)
Might you have any idea of the value of these saws?

Have a chance to buy a 238SE that probably needs a top end at least, Maybe bearings and seals too. Any thoughts on whether it is a saw to save?

 

[northwest saws]

Donno if this is the right place for questions but....
Is there an adapter to use a regular size Stihl bar on a small mount husky (k095)?

Yep there is. Cannon makes an adapter to put a regular 12mm mount Stihl bar to the K095 mount. Cannon adapter CBW-20040 is what you need.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

 

[Sawdust Man]

Yep there is. Cannon makes an adapter to put a regular 12mm mount Stihl bar to the K095 mount. Cannon adapter CBW-20040 is what you need.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Thank you boss!

 

[Sepia]

Hello leecopland, I just picked up an older white top 44 for $5. Just got it running. I believe it’s an 81’. (Sorry, I see this is an older thread, new to ArboristSite.)
Might you have any idea of the value of these saws? View attachment 982277View attachment 982278View attachment 982279

Your saw looks like it is in nice condition for it's age! Not nearly as collectable as it's hotrod brother the 444 but surely worth more than $5 lol. Beware these saws and the 238se you are looking at share the same pto bearing/seal combination that it is no longer available. A lot of those 44s were sold in the northeast of usa and canada, as well as europe.

 

[leecopland]

Hi Folks,

I have a new to me 61 with a metal clutch cover but a plastic chain brake handle which is broken. I have a new handle and was wondering how tricky it is to replace. I have fears of springs flying all over the shop!

 

[leecopland]

Hello leecopland, I just picked up an older white top 44 for $5. Just got it running. I believe it’s an 81’. (Sorry, I see this is an older thread, new to ArboristSite.)
Might you have any idea of the value of these saws? View attachment 982277View attachment 982278View attachment 982279

The last time I advertised a 44 the phone rang off the hook. It seems they are highly regarded saws. Checkout Tinmans youtube channel. He usually talks about bigger saws but he loves his 44. I was asking $150 Cdn

 

[Czed]

Hello leecopland, I just picked up an older white top 44 for $5. Just got it running. I believe it’s an 81’. (Sorry, I see this is an older thread, new to ArboristSite.)
Might you have any idea of the value of these saws? View attachment 982277View attachment 982278View attachment 982279

Personally I'd start at 325.00 on price

 

[Sepia]

Hi Folks,

I have a new to me 61 with a metal clutch cover but a plastic chain brake handle which is broken. I have a new handle and was wondering how tricky it is to replace. I have fears of springs flying all over the shop!

If the brake isn't "tripped", then replacing the handle isn't too difficult usually. Simply take the appropriate allen key and loosen but dont't remove the screw that goes through the pivot bushing. If you are unlucky and the whole bushing spins inside the broken handle, you will have to carve away plastic from the broken handle until you can get a grip on the "nut" side of the bushing with a pair of pliers to prevent spinning. With the screw 3/4 removed from the bushing, take a light hammer and tap on the head of the screw. This will drive the "nut" side of the bushing out of the broken handle. With the nut loose, remove the nut and place a punch into the pivot hole and drive the other half of the bushing out of the broken handle.

Reassembly requires a bit of force to get everything lined up between the handle and the cover, but you will see how it assembles and shouldn't have to much trouble getting the two halves of the bushing back into the proper place. Then just insert the screw and tighten and you're done.

 

[Czed]

Out of dozens of 266/268/272/288/371/372 husqvarnas some ported some not
I have this
30.00 266 with a oem 268 closed port cylinder and a hyway popup piston
It's one of my favorite saws

I keep it in my truck
It gets used all the time.
Original seals and crank bearings still holding up great.

 

[leecopland]

If the brake isn't "tripped", then replacing the handle isn't too difficult usually. Simply take the appropriate allen key and loosen but dont't remove the screw that goes through the pivot bushing. If you are unlucky and the whole bushing spins inside the broken handle, you will have to carve away plastic from the broken handle until you can get a grip on the "nut" side of the bushing with a pair of pliers to prevent spinning. With the screw 3/4 removed from the bushing, take a light hammer and tap on the head of the screw. This will drive the "nut" side of the bushing out of the broken handle. With the nut loose, remove the nut and place a punch into the pivot hole and drive the other half of the bushing out of the broken handle.

Reassembly requires a bit of force to get everything lined up between the handle and the cover, but you will see how it assembles and shouldn't have to much trouble getting the two halves of the bushing back into the proper place. Then just insert the screw and tighten and you're done.

Thanks, I'll certainly have a go.

 

[leecopland]

Personally I'd start at 325.00 on price

No wonder my phone/email was so busy!

If the brake isn't "tripped", then replacing the handle isn't too difficult usually. Simply take the appropriate allen key and loosen but dont't remove the screw that goes through the pivot bushing. If you are unlucky and the whole bushing spins inside the broken handle, you will have to carve away plastic from the broken handle until you can get a grip on the "nut" side of the bushing with a pair of pliers to prevent spinning. With the screw 3/4 removed from the bushing, take a light hammer and tap on the head of the screw. This will drive the "nut" side of the bushing out of the broken handle. With the nut loose, remove the nut and place a punch into the pivot hole and drive the other half of the bushing out of the broken handle.

Reassembly requires a bit of force to get everything lined up between the handle and the cover, but you will see how it assembles and shouldn't have to much trouble getting the two halves of the bushing back into the proper place. Then just insert the screw and tighten and you're done.

All went well thanks for your input. However the brake doesn't engage. Maybe it didn't engage before replacing the flag.

 

[Sepia]

When you say it doesn't engage, do you mean the handle goes forward and nothing happens? Or is the handle locked in the upright position? Something else?

 

[leecopland]

Handle goes forward and nothing happens

 

[Sepia]

The metal hinge that pivots on top of the side cover is called a knee joint. There should be a metal tab that sticks up on that hinge when the brake is not activated. There is a metal pin that goes through the plastic handle that has a C-clip on the end. When installing the handle, that metal pin needs to go behind (to the rear) of that metal tab on the knee joint. Possibly you installed the knew handle with the pin in front of the knee joint tab. I have also seen those knee joint tabs broken off. In that case you would have to replace the knee joint.

 

[Parkerpusher]

Out of dozens of 266/268/272/288/371/372 husqvarnas some ported some not
I have this
30.00 266 with a oem 268 closed port cylinder and a hyway popup piston
It's one of my favorite saws
View attachment 992891
I keep it in my truck
It gets used all the time.
Original seals and crank bearings still holding up great.

That might be my favorite saw in the woods picture I’ve ever seen on this site. Yep, I think it is.

 

[Sepia]

Here is a pic of the knee joint. When the brake is deactivated, the tab at the far right of the pic will be pointing straight up between the two strips of the flat spring.