Any "safe" starting fluid for a saw?

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Why chance causing damage when there is no need to? I prime saws all the time but it is with fuel in a syringe and a piece of fuel line. Others use bottles which is fine. We all have our preferred methods

A saw that will not start can be diagnosed with quick start. If quick start causes the saw to run briefly, you can bet that you have a gas/carburetor problem. If the saw doesn't react to the quick start you better be looking else where, i.e. the electrical/spark system.

But you're right, don't take any chances. Why risk anything, anything at all. Something bad might happen.... :nofunny:
 
The guys I've seen that use starting fluid don't just do a small squirt they put a bunch of it in there!
They are also the same guys that squirt a crap load in a diesel then hit the glow plugs. Granted this thread is about using ether in a 2 stroke but in a diesel the only way to go is a block heater. Of course that is not always possible. Not many trees got outlets to plug into in the woods.
 
A saw that will not start can be diagnosed with quick start. If quick start causes the saw to run briefly, you can bet that you have a gas/carburetor problem. If the saw doesn't react to the quick start you better be looking else where, i.e. the electrical/spark system.

But you're right, don't take any chances. Why risk anything, anything at all. Something bad might happen.... :nofunny:
Don’t ever run a saw without oil unless your intent is to destroy it…
 
They are also the same guys that squirt a crap load in a diesel then hit the glow plugs. Granted this thread is about using ether in a 2 stroke but in a diesel the only way to go is a block heater. Of course that is not always possible. Not many trees got outlets to plug into in the woods.
Old timers used to pour diesel on the ground under the belly pan and light it on fire, 🔥 Pour a cup of coffee and wait.
 
Old timers used to pour diesel on the ground under the belly pan and light it on fire, 🔥 Pour a cup of coffee and wait.
The old guys did some crazy stuff but you know it worked.

In 1978/79 we had a series of huge snows. Well huge by Illinois/Iowa standards. There was no way we could handle to getting rid of it with a tractor. Dad put a torpedo heater at the back of the dozer and covered it with a tarp. It took awhile but she got warm enough to start and he commenced to pushing snow with a dozer. A side benefit was he also eliminated a few high stumps that were buried under the snow. The bad thing was he also tore the rear corner off the new jon boat that was buried
 
Nothing wrong with using regular starting fluid on a saw. The cylinder volume is so tiny, your chances of grenading the thing are slim to none.

That said, I use acetone in a Sure Shot. Quick, easy, cheap. I save the ether for seating stubborn beads on automotive or ATV tires bought off the internet.
 
Nothing wrong with using regular starting fluid on a saw. The cylinder volume is so tiny, your chances of grenading the thing are slim to none.

That said, I use acetone in a Sure Shot. Quick, easy, cheap. I save the ether for seating stubborn beads on automotive or ATV tires bought off the internet.
I disagree 100%. Cylinder volume is irrelevant. Based on what you say then a larger displacement saw will suffer less damage from being "straight-gassed" then a smaller displacement saw? I am sorry but lack of lubrication is lack of lubrication. Ether by nature is EXTREMELY dry. MUCH drier than straight gasoline
 
You're not supposed to run the friggin saw on it - just a spriz to get it started. There should be PLENTY of residual 2-stroke oil left in the crankcase.

I was talking about explosions - that's what I thought the concern from the OP was. Larger volume has a bigger bang - laws of physics. Also over the course of 20+ years I've used anything and everything as a starting agent on 2-strokes. Haven't blown one up yet. But you do you.
 
You're not supposed to run the friggin saw on it - just a spriz to get it started. There should be PLENTY of residual 2-stroke oil left in the crankcase.

I was talking about explosions - that's what I thought the concern from the OP was. Larger volume has a bigger bang - laws of physics. Also over the course of 20+ years I've used anything and everything as a starting agent on 2-strokes. Haven't blown one up yet. But you do you.
I do not need any lessons in Physics. Putting ether in ANY engine is never good PERIOD
 
At work, we used penetrating oil as a starter fluid. Diesel engines, but some of those engines where air cooled. Either in any of those air cooled engines would make the engine knock so loud you thought it was coming apart. Put either in the old mans dexter tractor once and was rollling it off to get it to crank. Engine backfired and started running backwards, sounded like it turned 10,000 rpms. How it held together I dont know.
 
Explain then the ether in model aeroplane engine fuel.....
Well I have zero real life experience with model airplanes. You say......Explain then the ether in model aeroplane engine fuel..... Well there is a key term there and it is fuel. I assume from your post that the ether is an additive in the fuel and is not the fuel itself. If you squirt ether in a non running chainsaw the ether will reach the cylinder well before any mixed fuel and therefore will be the sole fuel source. Please review the thread as the OP was referencing saws that more than likely are having fuel delivery issues hence the ether is the only fuel when injected. Are you telling me that model airplanes are ran on pure ether? If so then i have learned something today.

To make this a bit more simple for you I assume you have seen the many threads regarding ethanol in fuels as related to being used in OPE. In some locations it is nearly impossible to find fuel that does not have 10% ethanol added. I am a firm believer and advocate of ethanol but I do not use it in saws as even at 10% it is not a good additive. Now no matter what some folks will say a saw will run on 10% ethanol but is is tough on the fuel system. Would you put 85% ethanol in a saw and expect it to run with lonegevity? Probably not. The ethanol is an additive at a low percentage and I would suspect so is the ether in you fuel you reference.

Please answer the questions I have asked.
 
For your reading

Glow Model Airplane Fuel​

Model airplane fuel bottle: Cool Power

As it's name implies, glow fuel requires a glow plug for ignition.

Glow fuel has three main ingredients-

  1. Methanol (Alcohol)
  2. Lubricating oil.
  3. Nitromethane (Nitro)
Methanol is the primary combustible used in rc airplane fuel. Nitro is added to increasepower. It doe this by increasing the oxygen content in the fuel mix. More nitro results in more power, up to a point. The higher the nitro content the more sensitive, to adjustment the glow engine's carburetor becomes.

For typical sport flying, glow fuels containing from 5 percent to 30 percent nitro produces a good compromise between power and ease of carburetor adjustment. The higher nitro content fuels are more expensive and tend to lower glow plug life.

Please follow the engine manufacturer's recommendations regarding the fuel mix that should be used in your engine. I rarely exceed 15 percent nitro content and find this to be a good balance.


Seems to me the #2 ingrediant is lubricating oil. Is there any lubricating oil is standard ether based starting fluid?
 
For your reading

Glow Model Airplane Fuel​

Model airplane fuel bottle: Cool Power

As it's name implies, glow fuel requires a glow plug for ignition.

Glow fuel has three main ingredients-

  1. Methanol (Alcohol)
  2. Lubricating oil.
  3. Nitromethane (Nitro)
Methanol is the primary combustible used in rc airplane fuel. Nitro is added to increasepower. It doe this by increasing the oxygen content in the fuel mix. More nitro results in more power, up to a point. The higher the nitro content the more sensitive, to adjustment the glow engine's carburetor becomes.

For typical sport flying, glow fuels containing from 5 percent to 30 percent nitro produces a good compromise between power and ease of carburetor adjustment. The higher nitro content fuels are more expensive and tend to lower glow plug life.

Please follow the engine manufacturer's recommendations regarding the fuel mix that should be used in your engine. I rarely exceed 15 percent nitro content and find this to be a good balance.


Seems to me the #2 ingrediant is lubricating oil. Is there any lubricating oil is standard ether based starting fluid?
Here is one of the starting fluids on Amazon https://amzn.to/3vo56M7 It contains lubricating oil. EVERY starting fluid I have seen in recent years contains lubricating oil. Please post a link to a starting fluid not containing lubricating oil, if such a thing exists.
 

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