The top of the lever should sit just flush with the surrounding carb floor.....you will have to carefully bend the lever to be so. Any small straight edge across the floor will show you when it's flush.
First time I have read to not adjust/bend needle arm with needle in place, might account for some sketchy issues I have had in the past.Yeah, that's the right gasket/diaphragm order. What about fuel line and filter? Make sure you're not using one of those fuel lines with a 'liner'.....stay away from that crap. Yes, the lever should be dead flush...don't bend the lever with the inlet needle in place;take the lever out, bend, put back in and check.
Did you soak the carb and get it really clean?
Kevin
It's in all the the Tillotson Service Instructions. And I quote, "CAUTION: Do Not Exert Pressure On Resilient Needle Valve."First time I have read to not adjust/bend needle arm with needle in place, might account for some sketchy issues I have had in the past.
That looks all good to me.......have you had any sucess with that OEM P&C from the UK??Here are my best attempts at what you were asking, at least I think you were asking, for in the video of the connecting rod slop. Here is my interpretation of what I felt, maybe a degree or two of wiggle at the distal end of the connecting rod at the drum bearing. I did not feel any up and down play.
View attachment 1033459
View attachment 1033460
Time for some, most likely, dumb questions.
All of these are in my shopping cart on chainsawr.com, help me not to spend money unnecessarily.
Is there a way to replace the crankshaft assembly without splitting the case? I can get my hands on one, but don't want to split the case whatsoever (lack of gaskets, lack of expertise, etc.).
Based on the videos above, do I even need to?
I've also acquired crank seals, so I'll remove those and check the bearings. What's the method for removing the seals? Brute force?
The service manual a user here provided me with states the bearings are pressed onto the shaft. How do I remove them?
Should I replace the drum bearings on the clutch and wrist pin?
How about the a wrist pin?
Well, that would be a sticky wicket if they changed crank seals in the production run. That would mean the crank and the cases themselves could be different....That looks all good to me.......have you had any sucess with that OEM P&C from the UK??
On the topic of crankshaft seals.........according to my 451EV IPLs, one dated 5/01/83 concerning models below serial number #1101301 having seals #504 146 201....however the IPL dated 3/15/84 shows the seal # 503 260 202. Now I don't know if seal changed or just the numbering.......I would accurately measure the OD of the seal you remove (or ID of the hole in the case) and the OD of the crank where the seal rides and also the thickness of the metal part of the seal to make sure you have the right ones. As I said earlier the 451 went through more changes in it's production run than any other model Jonsereds that I know of.
Yeah I don't know......just going by the numbers........I've worked on these a bit and nothing surprises me on these things......again may just a numbering change...you know things at Jonsereds were real sketchy in those years 82-84......Well, that would be a sticky wicket if they changed crank seals in the production run. That would mean the crank and the cases themselves could be different....
Kevin
Well yeah, clear as mud now.Yep....the '84 IPL has the ign the same as the 910E.......not the same number as the wires on the modules are different lenghts but essentially the same units. Same difference as the 52E and 70E igns.
The 83 and earlier have a totally different ign/flywhel etc.
Again the case halves are the same beteen the two I have IPLs for....but boy.....lotsa stuff is not the same!!!
Of course we don't yet know what number saw the OP has......
Yep....the first death.......Well yeah, clear as mud now.
Those were sketchy yrs for Jonsered as Electrolux Group AB forged ahead and did whatever they wanted. Eventually with Husqvarna onboard they started hammering out decent chainsaws again, albeit the original Jonsereds 'flavor' was gone forever.
Kevin
So based on this post I got the 503260202 seals on eBay, OEM supposedly. The P+C was shipped from the UK, I'm sure it will take some time to get here. I'll report when it does.That looks all good to me.......have you had any sucess with that OEM P&C from the UK??
On the topic of crankshaft seals.........according to my 451EV IPLs, one dated 5/01/83 concerning models below serial number #1101301 having seals #504 146 201....however the IPL dated 3/15/84 shows the seal # 503 260 202. Now I don't know if seal changed or just the numbering.......I would accurately measure the OD of the seal you remove (or ID of the hole in the case) and the OD of the crank where the seal rides and also the thickness of the metal part of the seal to make sure you have the right ones. As I said earlier the 451 went through more changes in it's production run than any other model Jonsereds that I know of.
So I take it you have a saw with a serial # above 1101301?? yes?So based on this post I got the 503260202 seals on eBay, OEM supposedly. The P+C was shipped from the UK, I'm sure it will take some time to get here. I'll report when it does.
I have some more question regarding removing and installing the seals, but it will have to wait till tomorrow.
Negative. Unfortunately didn't think the part number change was significant. Guess I'll be returning them or flipping them if they don't have the right measurements.
Hmmmm....I'm guessing that the crank diameter where the seal runs is different......the later saws have a different part number for the crankshaft......main bearings are all the same....Does not appear so.
Negative. Unfortunately didn't think the part number change was significant. Guess I'll be returning them or flipping them if they don't have the right measurements.
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