Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

The top of the lever should sit just flush with the surrounding carb floor.....you will have to carefully bend the lever to be so. Any small straight edge across the floor will show you when it's flush.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yeah, that's the right gasket/diaphragm order. What about fuel line and filter? Make sure you're not using one of those fuel lines with a 'liner'.....stay away from that crap. Yes, the lever should be dead flush...don't bend the lever with the inlet needle in place;take the lever out, bend, put back in and check.

Did you soak the carb and get it really clean?

Kevin

 

[TRTermite]

Yeah, that's the right gasket/diaphragm order. What about fuel line and filter? Make sure you're not using one of those fuel lines with a 'liner'.....stay away from that crap. Yes, the lever should be dead flush...don't bend the lever with the inlet needle in place;take the lever out, bend, put back in and check.

Did you soak the carb and get it really clean?

Kevin

First time I have read to not adjust/bend needle arm with needle in place, might account for some sketchy issues I have had in the past.

 

[Real1shepherd]

First time I have read to not adjust/bend needle arm with needle in place, might account for some sketchy issues I have had in the past.

It's in all the the Tillotson Service Instructions. And I quote, "CAUTION: Do Not Exert Pressure On Resilient Needle Valve."

Translation....if you bend the lever in place, you can actually damage or groove the rubber tip of the needle valve. And there used to be kits where the needle valve was solid, no rubber. Still important there because you could damage the actual seat.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Hmmmmm.....I guess AS is one step ahead of me.....can't post the Tillotson Service Instructions.

If you want it, just PM me.

Kevin

 

[numnutz6383]

Here are my best attempts at what you were asking, at least I think you were asking, for in the video of the connecting rod slop. Here is my interpretation of what I felt, maybe a degree or two of wiggle at the distal end of the connecting rod at the drum bearing. I did not feel any up and down play.


View attachment VID20221119141811.mov
View attachment VID20221119141923.mov

Time for some, most likely, dumb questions.

All of these are in my shopping cart on chainsawr.com, help me not to spend money unnecessarily.

Is there a way to replace the crankshaft assembly without splitting the case? I can get my hands on one, but don't want to split the case whatsoever (lack of gaskets, lack of expertise, etc.).
Based on the videos above, do I even need to?
I've also acquired crank seals, so I'll remove those and check the bearings. What's the method for removing the seals? Brute force?
The service manual a user here provided me with states the bearings are pressed onto the shaft. How do I remove them?

Should I replace the drum bearings on the clutch and wrist pin?
How about the a wrist pin?

 

[Real1shepherd]

What I see with my eyes is that the plastic stop didn't entirely stop the movement of con rod on the crankshaft. So, what I also perceive is that there is little to no play if you allow the fact that you haven't completely stopped the con rod from moving. You're good to go there.

No crankcase of crankcase bearing replacement without splitting the case. But I'm not seeing the need for that at present.

Lots of ways to remove the seals to access cleaning out the crank bearings. Tools out there for small seal removal abound on eBay and the like. Many folks just carefully drill & screw in like a sheet metal screw and pry them out.

I was taught professionally, never to beat on a bearing if you want to install or reuse it. That includes beating on the inner race with wood, plastic or whatever. Ideally, you can heat them up to about 350F and drop them on the shaft or at most, press them into place. Hydraulic presses are cheap and small bearings can be pressed with a good vice. At this point a good aid would be a infrared temp gun you can aim at objects to see how hot they are. They're everywhere available now. Remove bearings with pullers(two halves) that support the entire bearing.

But let's not get ahead of ourselves.....you don't need to split the case unless the crank bearings feel rough or there's lateral play in the shaft. Rotate that crank 'round & 'round....should be smooth and absolutely no roughness anywhere in its rotation. With the flywheel and clutch off....test for lateral play in the shaft. But crank bearings filled with sawdust could be hiding roughness...so the seals have to come out and the bearings cleaned out....then retest.

Yes, always replace the drum bearing, the wrist pin bearing and the piston wrist pin if you're unsure of age. You can mic the wrist pin...it should be even all the way across. If not you can visually see the wear, where the bearing resided.

I let the wrist pin stay in my Husky 2100 rebuild only because I could not find one. The wear was minimal, but I hated doing that.

"Dumb" only comes from not asking questions and/or not listening to the answers.

Kevin

 

[mogulmasher]

All awesome points above. When spinning crank with flywheel on and coil in place don't be fooled when flywheel magnets line up with pick ups on coil. It'll be perceived as roughness in the bearings. Best to remove all that stuff as said above and spin crank assuring it's smooth.

 

[Cantdog]

Here are my best attempts at what you were asking, at least I think you were asking, for in the video of the connecting rod slop. Here is my interpretation of what I felt, maybe a degree or two of wiggle at the distal end of the connecting rod at the drum bearing. I did not feel any up and down play.


View attachment 1033459
View attachment 1033460

Time for some, most likely, dumb questions.

All of these are in my shopping cart on chainsawr.com, help me not to spend money unnecessarily.

Is there a way to replace the crankshaft assembly without splitting the case? I can get my hands on one, but don't want to split the case whatsoever (lack of gaskets, lack of expertise, etc.).
Based on the videos above, do I even need to?
I've also acquired crank seals, so I'll remove those and check the bearings. What's the method for removing the seals? Brute force?
The service manual a user here provided me with states the bearings are pressed onto the shaft. How do I remove them?

Should I replace the drum bearings on the clutch and wrist pin?
How about the a wrist pin?

That looks all good to me.......have you had any sucess with that OEM P&C from the UK??

On the topic of crankshaft seals.........according to my 451EV IPLs, one dated 5/01/83 concerning models below serial number #1101301 having seals #504 146 201....however the IPL dated 3/15/84 shows the seal # 503 260 202. Now I don't know if seal changed or just the numbering.......I would accurately measure the OD of the seal you remove (or ID of the hole in the case) and the OD of the crank where the seal rides and also the thickness of the metal part of the seal to make sure you have the right ones. As I said earlier the 451 went through more changes in it's production run than any other model Jonsereds that I know of.

 

[Real1shepherd]

That looks all good to me.......have you had any sucess with that OEM P&C from the UK??

On the topic of crankshaft seals.........according to my 451EV IPLs, one dated 5/01/83 concerning models below serial number #1101301 having seals #504 146 201....however the IPL dated 3/15/84 shows the seal # 503 260 202. Now I don't know if seal changed or just the numbering.......I would accurately measure the OD of the seal you remove (or ID of the hole in the case) and the OD of the crank where the seal rides and also the thickness of the metal part of the seal to make sure you have the right ones. As I said earlier the 451 went through more changes in it's production run than any other model Jonsereds that I know of.

Well, that would be a sticky wicket if they changed crank seals in the production run. That would mean the crank and the cases themselves could be different....

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Well, that would be a sticky wicket if they changed crank seals in the production run. That would mean the crank and the cases themselves could be different....

Kevin

Yeah I don't know......just going by the numbers........I've worked on these a bit and nothing surprises me on these things......again may just a numbering change...you know things at Jonsereds were real sketchy in those years 82-84......

 

[Cantdog]

Studied this a bit further....comparing from one IPL to the other some parts are the same number...some are not and it looks like this is the time when they changed ign/coil types......flywheel is different, P&C is different and crank also carries a different #......case halves remain the same......I told ya this was tricky!!!!!

 

[Cantdog]

Yep....the '84 IPL has the ign the same as the 910E.......not the same number as the wires on the modules are different lenghts but essentially the same units. Same difference as the 52E and 70E igns.

The 83 and earlier have a totally different ign/flywhel etc.

Again the case halves are the same beteen the two I have IPLs for....but boy.....lotsa stuff is not the same!!!

Of course we don't yet know what number saw the OP has......

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yep....the '84 IPL has the ign the same as the 910E.......not the same number as the wires on the modules are different lenghts but essentially the same units. Same difference as the 52E and 70E igns.

The 83 and earlier have a totally different ign/flywhel etc.

Again the case halves are the same beteen the two I have IPLs for....but boy.....lotsa stuff is not the same!!!

Of course we don't yet know what number saw the OP has......

Well yeah, clear as mud now.

Those were sketchy yrs for Jonsered as Electrolux Group AB forged ahead and did whatever they wanted. Eventually with Husqvarna onboard they started hammering out decent chainsaws again, albeit the original Jonsereds 'flavor' was gone forever.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Well yeah, clear as mud now.

Those were sketchy yrs for Jonsered as Electrolux Group AB forged ahead and did whatever they wanted. Eventually with Husqvarna onboard they started hammering out decent chainsaws again, albeit the original Jonsereds 'flavor' was gone forever.

Kevin

Yep....the first death.......

 

[Cantdog]

I'd buy this....but I got one already


https://www.ebay.com/itm/3640543605...VN8c72YdMhSfOT6eY+5FKvdfE=|tkp:Bk9SR6qF86KSYQ

 

[numnutz6383]

That looks all good to me.......have you had any sucess with that OEM P&C from the UK??

On the topic of crankshaft seals.........according to my 451EV IPLs, one dated 5/01/83 concerning models below serial number #1101301 having seals #504 146 201....however the IPL dated 3/15/84 shows the seal # 503 260 202. Now I don't know if seal changed or just the numbering.......I would accurately measure the OD of the seal you remove (or ID of the hole in the case) and the OD of the crank where the seal rides and also the thickness of the metal part of the seal to make sure you have the right ones. As I said earlier the 451 went through more changes in it's production run than any other model Jonsereds that I know of.

So based on this post I got the 503260202 seals on eBay, OEM supposedly. The P+C was shipped from the UK, I'm sure it will take some time to get here. I'll report when it does.

I have some more question regarding removing and installing the seals, but it will have to wait till tomorrow.

 

[Cantdog]

So based on this post I got the 503260202 seals on eBay, OEM supposedly. The P+C was shipped from the UK, I'm sure it will take some time to get here. I'll report when it does.

I have some more question regarding removing and installing the seals, but it will have to wait till tomorrow.

So I take it you have a saw with a serial # above 1101301?? yes?

 

[numnutz6383]

Does not appear so.

So I take it you have a saw with a serial # above 1101301?? yes?

Negative. Unfortunately didn't think the part number change was significant. Guess I'll be returning them or flipping them if they don't have the right measurements.

 

[Cantdog]

Does not appear so.

Negative. Unfortunately didn't think the part number change was significant. Guess I'll be returning them or flipping them if they don't have the right measurements.

Hmmmm....I'm guessing that the crank diameter where the seal runs is different......the later saws have a different part number for the crankshaft......main bearings are all the same....