Bar Quality:Best Low profile (LP) bars for Dolmar/Makita

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Stens distributor at one time dealt with these.

http://www.gbforestry.com.au/store/...gb-arbor-tech-guide-bar---3-8-lp-050-8-detail this is the right mount same as the Husqvarna 36. I have this very bar on my Makita 3601 at this time but it is too far away to take a picture. GB actually email responded to me at one point about cleaning features of their sprockets. Maybe they lack a distributor.

Looking at the picture in the link above note how much curve is in the top and bottom. Not real straight and hence less prone to the chain coming off, at least my theory.
 
I contacted the guy and he said his Speedcut had a 13 tooth nose sprocket.
I don't; believe this is accurate. The speedcut aluminum core bars are intended for the NK .325 chain, are about 20 thousands thinner than a "normal" .325 laminated bar and have a 10 tooth nose. 12 tooth seems to be the larger nose with Oregon, not all aluminum core bars are speed cut.
 
Good information, you apparently were burning through bars like I am
I get long service from my bars but I would call myself an occasional cutter. I cut about 6 full cords last year but that's unusual. I just think the Makita deserves a better bar and my main beef is the small nose which is harder on chains and causes a tight-loose condition every time a link rounds the nose. I was limbing an oak last year that had a bunch of small whiskers and one caused the chain to come off. I have been cutting since the 70's and that was my second derailment. The first was one of my little homeowner Poulans which runs the same bar as the Makita.
 
I don't; believe this is accurate. The speedcut aluminum core bars are intended for the NK .325 chain, are about 20 thousands thinner than a "normal" .325 laminated bar and have a 10 tooth nose. 12 tooth seems to be the larger nose with Oregon, not all aluminum core bars are speed cut.
You're right, I was going from memory.

The top bar is 10 tooth and the bottom is the discontinued 12 tooth.
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P1190054.JPG
 
I get long service from my bars but I would call myself an occasional cutter. I cut about 6 full cords last year but that's unusual. I just think the Makita deserves a better bar and my main beef is the small nose which is harder on chains and causes a tight-loose condition every time a link rounds the nose. I was limbing an oak last year that had a bunch of small whiskers and one caused the chain to come off. I have been cutting since the 70's and that was my second derailment. The first was one of my little homeowner Poulans which runs the same bar as the Makita.
You’re losing chains because twigs are getting between the chain and bar. Supposedly, LP chains have shallower drive links making it more likely to happen. I cut a lot of brush and have lost lots of chains, try cutting more deliberately, slowly, less slashing at the brush. It still happens with other saws and chains but less frequently.
 
You’re losing chains because twigs are getting between the chain and bar. Supposedly, LP chains have shallower drive links making it more likely to happen. I cut a lot of brush and have lost lots of chains, try cutting more deliberately, slowly, less slashing at the brush.
Stens distributor at one time dealt with these.

http://www.gbforestry.com.au/store/...gb-arbor-tech-guide-bar---3-8-lp-050-8-detail this is the right mount same as the Husqvarna 36. I have this very bar on my Makita 3601 at this time but it is too far away to take a picture. GB actually email responded to me at one point about cleaning features of their sprockets. Maybe they lack a distributor.

Looking at the picture in the link above note how much curve is in the top and bottom. Not real straight and hence less prone to the chain coming off, at least my theory.
The bar in the link isn’t for a Makita EA4300 or the Dolmar 421
 
You’re losing chains because twigs are getting between the chain and bar. Supposedly, LP chains have shallower drive links making it more likely to happen. I cut a lot of brush and have lost lots of chains, try cutting more deliberately, slowly, less slashing at the brush. It still happens with other saws and chains but less frequently.
I believe it has more to do with the small tip. Something else that may or may not cause jumped chains. I tension my chain on a tight spot with these narrow tipped bars, so half of the time the chain is hanging a bit low and could allow things to get in there.
 
It will happen regardless of the shape/radius of the bar tip. It doesn’t require a loose chain for twigs to get in between the bar and chain.
 
It will happen regardless of the shape/radius of the bar tip. It doesn’t require a loose chain for twigs to get in between the bar and chain. This topic has been covered on other posts, throwing chains is a common occurrence for people with small saws working on brush and the finer twigs and branches of tree tops. I see it all the time.
 
I ran a few saws with 3/8lp and the small tip bars. I couldnt keep the chain on a 16 inch one while limbing worth a dam but the 14 didnt have many issues.
I switched to chinese bars for 3/8lp from husky/oregon bars to get the larger tip. It's kinda sad the cheap chinese bars are better but they are.
You can tell which ones have the larger tip buy how many rivets are in it, 1 for small tip 4 for the larger one.
 
I haven’t done a study, but I throw them all the time with the woodland pro bars that have a larger radius nose than the makitas and oregons with the small radius.

. If I ever get away from LP chains I think it will happen less.
 
T
The bar in the link isn’t for a Makita EA4300 or the Dolmar 421
You just seem argumentative. I have stated the Husqvarna model 36 uses this bar and that is the same mount. I have stated I have such bar and have it currently on the Makita 3601. I have not stated until now I have had it on the Dolmar 351 which is the 38mm bore version of your saw. PO16-50wr I do have the bar packaging I could post a picture of. How about you post a picture of these ruined bars. Mine is made in China must have had it more than 5 years I see a fax number not an internet address. My local hardware store Mansfield supply has stens stuff like purge bulbs they probably could get me anything in the stens catalog. Not this particular replaceable nose bar though.
 
I am a professional and use my saw daily, sometimes all day, and when I do the woodland pros last about a month.

GB must not want to sell that bar to owners of Dolmars 421s or Makita 4300s because they're not on the list. I don't know what the code for my saw/bar is, I depend on manufacturers to have my saw listed as a match for a particular bar.

Please provide a link to a US based store that has this bar and states it’s for my saw. Cannon is also clear as mud as to what saws their bars fit.
 
The Makita 4300 is a very good saw, but it's technically in their mid tier Farm & Ranch line and not a Pro saw. Regardless, it's a keeper of a saw.

How much cutting of wood are you getting out of a Makita or WdlndPro bar? In what way are your bars failing?

People use chainsaws all the time to cut brush, but that is an act that is known to cause chain throws and other issues. Manufacturers often recommend against using chainsaws on brush.

Use a good brushcutter with circular blade to cut brush. Or a quality, sharpened machete.
 
The Makita 4300 is a good saw and I hope you find a quality bar. It's a shame the industry doesn't have more standardization on B & C specs.
 

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