Husqvarna 40-50cc saws

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What do you think my impression will be running a cs501p with a 16 or 18 bar after a Makita ea4300?
The Makita/Dolmar saws had really great fit and finish that are unmatched. I had a Maruyama branded 5100 for a while and they are very well finished.

The cs501p doesn’t feel like a good saw when you first pick it up, but it is. They are very light and have a small foot print. They have oddball aesthetics compared to the rest of the Echo lineup.

I’ve always been a huge fan of Echo but I’m having a hard time getting into the new black and orange ones.

The 501 has been a popular saw for a while.
 
Hi, i am looking for a professional saw to replace a Dolmar/Mikita 421/4300. I don’t want another one because the 3/8 LP chains are a nightmare (see my other threads. and because only consumer grade bars are available for them (see my other threads).

What I like about the saw is the power to weight. It can fell pretty fat trees if it needs to and is light enough to dice up the tops.

I am hoping someone can recommend the best husqvarna that meets my needs. Stihl no longer makes a 40cc pro saw, correct?

Thanks
The best for you would be husqvarna 455 Rancher, Thats with the 3/8 chain on it.
 
The best for you would be husqvarna 455 Rancher, Thats with the 3/8 chain on it.

Rancher may be a decent saw but I'd stay with the top end pro models, even if you have to get an older one to afford it.
I think there is drastic and noticeable difference between upper echelon saws and homeowner models.

Nate
 
I’m still a bit skeptical that the echo 501p is a professional saw. How does it compare to the equivalent Husqvarna?
rubber vs spring anti vibe
conventional vs stratified charge
inboard vs outboard clutch
stuffed crank on one not the other .... at least if you call the 550 the equivalent.
self tuning vs carb with screws lo and hi mixture

Are these things why you are skeptical?
 
Rubber bad? Strato good? Outboard bad? Adjustable carb good?

What is the equipment husky saw? They have a handful of similar saws that I haven’t figured out the differences between.
 
Rubber bad? Strato good? Outboard bad? Adjustable carb good?

What is the equipment husky saw? They have a handful of similar saws that I haven’t figured out the differences between.
Rubber is often not quite as nice as spring.

I prefer non strato. Strato is an EPA thing, not something designed for performance and longevity. The verdict isn’t quite in if you look at these threads but stratos usually turn more RPMs and when mine are even tuned a bit rich, run hotter than my traditional 2 strokes. I also have more trouble tuning my strato(ms261). It just doesn’t respond like I wish it would.

The 501p has an inboard clutch like most pro Husqys and all the Stihls. Most prefer that. I like my saws with outboard clutches. My Husqvarna 395 is as pro as it gets, and runs an outboard clutch.

Adjustable carb is great, but if you’re asking, might not be right for you. Some of us like adjusting carbs. Others don’t know they need adjusting. Not just any ole’ body needs to be messing with a carburetor.

The comparable Husqy would be the 550. I’ve had a couple. They will cost you much more, and offer you hardly anything over the 501p, except marginal performance and a better looking saw. Like I said before, the 501’s are ugly. Crank stuffers? Whatever. I would put my money on the 501p lasting longer just because I think Echo makes a darned durable engines. Husqvarnas are good too though and I’ve always liked them. The rancher series are good saws as well and I’ve enjoyed running them. They are heavy compared to the Echo, built more like homeowner saws (even though I don’t agree with that whole racket), and are still going to cost more.

Sounds like you will remain skeptical about the Echos regardless, so just get a Husqy first, and go from there. Owning one brand will teach you nothing, and reading people’s opinions on this forum about which brand is best might make you stupider. I started with Stihl, and now am mostly interested in Husqvarna and Echo.
 
Rubber bad? Strato good? Outboard bad? Adjustable carb good?

What is the equipment husky saw? They have a handful of similar saws that I haven’t figured out the differences between.
I was trying to get you to elaborate why you were skeptical of calling an Echo 501p pro grade. I got 4 questions back.

The current pro if you desire designs favor a cylinder angled to the rear somewhat and spring anti vibe. In this sense your Makita 4300 is more advanced than an Echo 501p.
 
The best things the 501 have going for it are power to weight, price, and lack of advancement.

But not to worry. If Echo continues on the path it’s on, it’ll be replaced by a clamshell strato with the new, awful color scheme for the same price.

I think Echo made some really good clamshells in the past but I’m getting less interested in them as the new models roll out. Other than the air filter design, the 60cc saws are great and I think they did well with the 7310(minus the colors), but everything else they are doing seems to be a downgrade.

They have a professional 43cc? saw on other markets. I’ll pick up when it comes to the US though.
 
I’ve used pro saws but I’m wasn’t sure of all the features they have. I’ve broken rubber and metal vibration dampeners, my 555 has a carb that can’t be adjusted and an outboard clutch. As I said earlier the biggest issue I have with my Makita is the LP chain and crappy bars.

What makes a bar professional quality and are any available for the 501p? I’d like a replaceable nose. The Woodland Pros I use on my Makita are disposable.

I’m less skeptical as I learn more about what the differences are.
 
Better poney up a few more dollars if you want a pro grade replacement bar, tsumura, sugihara, stihl es and es light are among the best, though idk how many replaceable tips your going to find for the size saw your looking at.
 
Better poney up a few more dollars if you want a pro grade replacement bar, tsumura, sugihara, stihl es and es light are among the best, though idk how many replaceable tips your going to find for the size saw your looking at.
Stihl will fit an Echo?

Looks like I’m about to go down the rabbit hole again looking for a decent bars.
 
Stihl will fit an Echo?

Looks like I’m about to go down the rabbit hole again looking for a decent bars.
No idea, you asked about high quality bars, I listed a few off for you. Having said that, I have a stihl bars on non stihl saws. Some required a few modifications. Sugihara and tsmura normally have bars to fit about anything, both very high quality bars.
 
I’ve used pro saws but I’m wasn’t sure of all the features they have. I’ve broken rubber and metal vibration dampeners, my 555 has a carb that can’t be adjusted and an outboard clutch. As I said earlier the biggest issue I have with my Makita is the LP chain and crappy bars.

What makes a bar professional quality and are any available for the 501p? I’d like a replaceable nose. The Woodland Pros I use on my Makita are disposable.

I’m less skeptical as I learn more about what the differences are.
Most “pro” saws have a vertically split crank case that also contains the oil tank and main chassis of the saw, making the top end easy to replace. I believe there are other things that can make a saw fit for a “professional” or real commercial use besides that.

The 501p, being a “pro” saw would usually come with a pro bar, most likely an Echo branded Oregon Power Cut or Power Match, whatever they are calling them. I’ve had decent luck with those but do prefer Husqvarna X-Tough(on a Husqy saw) and I run a Tsumura on my bigger Echo.

Pro bars are typically solid vs laminated, and you’ll pay for them. Bars and chains are consumables.

Clutch designs have little to do with them being professional. Neither do carbs. Usually higher end parts are used on higher end saws. I believe everything on the 501 is pretty top notch and won’t let you down.

The caveat is, with Echo saws, you’ll NEED to know how to tune them correctly because they most likely won’t come tuned well. The limiters on the carb are easy to defeat. Plenty of threads and instructions on that. And even though they aren’t stratified, they might come with a choked up muffler, maybe even one with a cat converter in it, which is silly. I’m not sure about the 501.

I say if you really want to save on a good saw, get the Echo 590. Nothing on the market touches that saw in its price range.
 
Rubber is often not quite as nice as spring.

I prefer non strato. Strato is an EPA thing, not something designed for performance and longevity. The verdict isn’t quite in if you look at these threads but stratos usually turn more RPMs and when mine are even tuned a bit rich, run hotter than my traditional 2 strokes. I also have more trouble tuning my strato(ms261). It just doesn’t respond like I wish it would.

The 501p has an inboard clutch like most pro Husqys and all the Stihls. Most prefer that. I like my saws with outboard clutches. My Husqvarna 395 is as pro as it gets, and runs an outboard clutch.

Adjustable carb is great, but if you’re asking, might not be right for you. Some of us like adjusting carbs. Others don’t know they need adjusting. Not just any ole’ body needs to be messing with a carburetor.

The comparable Husqy would be the 550. I’ve had a couple. They will cost you much more, and offer you hardly anything over the 501p, except marginal performance and a better looking saw. Like I said before, the 501’s are ugly. Crank stuffers? Whatever. I would put my money on the 501p lasting longer just because I think Echo makes a darned durable engines. Husqvarnas are good too though and I’ve always liked them. The rancher series are good saws as well and I’ve enjoyed running them. They are heavy compared to the Echo, built more like homeowner saws (even though I don’t agree with that whole racket), and are still going to cost more.

Sounds like you will remain skeptical about the Echos regardless, so just get a Husqy first, and go from there. Owning one brand will teach you nothing, and reading people’s opinions on this forum about which brand is best might make you stupider. I started with Stihl, and now am mostly interested in Husqvarna and Echo.
I am a firm believer that really need to take a step back 25 years or more to enjoy a chainsaw that is not smothered in EPA pieces that rob horsepower and create extreme heat issues for those who don't understand how a 2-stroke engine don't fare well when there is restrictive plates, Baffles, Spark arrestors, inside a chainsaws muffler to save the planet! Sorry, but I don't think chainsaws are the reason for that issue. I own a chainsaw collection of around 135 chainsaws, And if you take a peek at the exaust pipe or sometimes referred to as a stinger! On vintage chainsaws you will see that there are little if no restriction for the exaust gasses to escape, the design of a chainsaw in every way you study it is to dissipate heat! It's made out of magnesium, cooling fins on flywheel, but the problem is that somebody changed without doing their research, the exaust pipe and caused it to not only lose a ton of power! But created a serious problem for the rookie chainsaw owner who doesn't know how to tune for altitude and weather conditions, and does not understand that you cannot run your piece of equipment for an hour wide open throttle with one of these mufflers on it without causing heat issues! And have you seen how small the intake hole is getting these days? How could you ever satisfy your need for a chainsaw to perform the way it was designed to do when it's being dampened down to where it barely runs! And it's a nightmare for a saw owner to make it run right without being able to turn the jets in or out so it runs at peak performance! And I don't know any man who wants the worst running anything! I guess what I'm trying to say is, Saving the earth and making horsepower don't mix well together! It's like running a marathon with a pillow strapped over your nose and mouth! You're not going to win that race. For the price you are paying for some of these new plastic shiny pieces of crap! You could purchase a second hand saw that some old boy took good care of through the years, and put a top end on it and it will last a lifetime if maintenanced regularly. I own a Husqvarna 266xp that is 37 years old and every time I run it around other men I get asked, Where can I get one of those saws? Or, Would you be interested in selling that one? Believe me when I say, Go back in time if you want to find a good saw! 😉
 
@Tony Mayhew

I think along the same vein. A long time ago performance and quality seemed to matter more, it was more of the driving force in the saw market. Manufacturers now seem to focus on sales and profit, not saw quality and longevity. Saw longevity and quality probably hurt profit, in fact, because they don't get to sell another disposable saw if the saw keeps running.

I am old. I have a 266xp also....and a 288. Those saws are robust, a little heavy, and run nicely and smoothly. They are a pleasure to operate. Quality is there, and quality makes a difference.
 
Today I decided to run my Husqvarna 350 that has been lying dormant for over three years while I use my 353. Now and then you need to run the backup saw.

I added some fresh fuel to the 350 and did nothing else but pull it on choke. It fired and now runs perfectly, as it did three years ago. That will give me time to tune or replace the carb on the 353 that had run flawlessly for seven years but started to have some trouble at WOT. Maybe the 353 will suddenly become jealous of me using the 350 tomorrow instead.

We shall see.
 
How does the 50cc Stihl compare with the 501p?
The pro Stihl is the 261. As much as I like Echo over Stihl, I’d keep my 10 year old 261 before I’d trade in for a new 501. Mine is 2013 model, non- m-tronic, and while I’ve said it’s not my favorite at all, and don’t know what all the hype over the 261 is about, I feel like it’s a cut above the 501. But at probably more than double the price? It’s definitely not twice as good.

But I’d take an Echo 590 over a 261 all day, have a stronger saw, and still save hundreds.
 

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