Best Chinese chainsaw, Farmertec Vs Neotec Vs ?

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I'm glad to see some people being satisfied with the smaller Farmertec saws. It's easy to find great reviews of the 70cc, 90cc, and 120cc stuff being used and abused in milling applications but there hasn't been much info available on how the 60cc under are holding up. I've also kicked around the idea of getting a top handle for limbing, but I'm not really sure I'll like it any more than a decent 50cc saw like the 026/260.

As far as firearms go, I actually use the same mental process that I do with chainsaws. What am I getting for what I'm spending? I currently run a lot of Athlon optics on my more accurate (1/2 moa or better) rifles, and I'm very satisfied with them for the money that I spent. That said, if I were going to spend big money on a guided hunt, I'd first put a Nightforce optic on that rifle, and I'd probably spend a few hundred on a new base and rings as well. Not worth it for plinking at the range, hunting whitetail locally, or shooting prairie dogs out west, but if I'm going to plan on spending $10K or more on a guided hunt, I'm going to also spend the money to upgrade the necessary equipment so that I have the confidence that it will perform when I need it to. I appreciate the fact that companies like Athlon and Vortex offer such great warranties, but when I've invested that much into a trip, the last thing I want to have to do is use somebodies warrantee. I use this approach for most things in life. I have hand tools and power tools that are cheap and disposable because there's a good chance they will get lost, or I'm going to abuse them in a way that even a top quality tool won't last. I have other tools that I spent good money on because I absolutely NEED them to work when I grab them. When the Chinese ZAMA carbs in my Stihl saws started giving me problems, I realized that I have enough saws on hand that I really don't NEED every one of the to work like it was brand new every time I reach for it which makes it worth the effort for me to research and try blue saws as the need arises.
I agree with the Nightforce scopes I use quite a few of them but have you ever looked through an Arken? They are great scopes at an affordable price! Some have the 34mm tube and some have a 30mm tube on their new light series. Quality scopes
should check them out.
 
10 grand for a guided hunt with lodging plus transportation, to and from is chump change today. I know as I do it. It ain't deer hunting on local land by a LONG shot.

Hell, I can shoot deer off my back deck, turkeys, yotes, whistle pigs and skunks for that matter, to me that isn't hunting at all. To me, hunting in a distant state or province or even in Africa is about the adventure and traveling to and from and the friendship and experience. Over the years I've been om many guided and paid for hunts and keep in mind you pay in full up front with no guarantee of a kill or even seeing the animal you purchased the tag for.

Many timers, I've never even fired a shot but it still cost me a lot of money, how hunts work.

Far as equipment goes, I only buy the best available and have my hunting rifles custom built, because I can afford it for one ands secondly, most likely you only get ONE shot, at most TWO but no more and often times you don't even get a shot, let alone a kill because the animal you have a tag for isn't a trophy take, anyway or you don't even see one and if you do take a tagged animal, then the real work and expense begins., quartering it (in the case of an Elk or mule deer) because you don't shoot them next to the Interstate, you usually soot them in remote country, accessed by mule or horse only and lot of walking up and down mountains and canyons too. Packing it out, then gutting and getting the meat to the local processor (another fee) and then getting it home if you want to, coolers loaded with dry ice, or a plane trip home in cooler and dry ice again in the cargo hold (air freight ain't cheap either).

Like my binoculars, I have a pair of Swarovski EL Range bino's Lifetime guarantee, lifetime free cleaning and alignment, Swarovski pays the air freight both ways to Cranston, RI btw in the Continental US, all for the mere average retail price of 3500 bucks. I have a pair and they make ordinary bino's bino's look like rocks. You get what you pay for, like anything in life.

I need to post some pictures of a few hunts out west I've been on so all of you will have some Idea of what transpires. It is an expensive hobby, not a hobby that if you cuddle up to a cheap Chinese chain saw, you will ever appreciate.....

How it plays...
 
My Farmertec ms260 has been good. Thought it was kind of a turd stock (I think most are that way) but once turned up I've been happy with it.
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I don't care for pleated oiled filters like K&N and I used to be a stocking dealer for them and sold them with my custom motorcycle parts. K&N' all leak, especially when clean and fresh oiled. Oiled foam is much, much better and that tid bit comes from first hand experience. In fact I have quite a few milling around here that I might sell but maybe won't. Of course you have it on a cheapo Chinese saw so I guess motor life really don't matter but you will never find one on my saws or my 7.2 diesel pickup or my Focus ST or my wife's Burb. I won't use them for everyday stuff, as I said, the pass fine dirt. K&N tried to break into the heavy truck business but had very limited success. Owner operators found out pretty quick that K&N's pass 'dirty air' and washing a diesel combustion chambers with dirty air can and will be very expensive to rectify. So did the fleet operators. Dry paper pleated HD truck filters work better and initial cost is much, less.
 
Finally, I try to refrain from buying anything Chinese. They are underhanded deceitful people (or at least their leaders are). Hard today buying non Chinese stuff but I use discretion.
 
I don't care for pleated oiled filters like K&N and I used to be a stocking dealer for them and sold them with my custom motorcycle parts. K&N' all leak, especially when clean and fresh oiled. Oiled foam is much, much better and that tid bit comes from first hand experience. In fact I have quite a few milling around here that I might sell but maybe won't. Of course you have it on a cheapo Chinese saw so I guess motor life really don't matter but you will never find one on my saws or my 7.2 diesel pickup or my Focus ST or my wife's Burb. I won't use them for everyday stuff, as I said, the pass fine dirt. K&N tried to break into the heavy truck business but had very limited success. Owner operators found out pretty quick that K&N's pass 'dirty air' and washing a diesel combustion chambers with dirty air can and will be very expensive to rectify. So did the fleet operators. Dry paper pleated HD truck filters work better and initial cost is much, less.
Ya they do pass more dust/dirt no doubt the stock airfilter was just the bottleneck on this build so it had to be replaced. Unifilter would be a better filtration option but this has a 45 degree bend right after the velocity stack that just barely fits in there as is.
 
k&n works fine on na engines at stopping dust and dirt, do not use them on forced induction engines...the vac to pressure pulse on na engines open and close the cotton gauze membrane trapping particulates in oil...forced induction lacks the pulse allowing debris through the expanded openings in the gauze. Any dirty filter traps more particulates but also restricts flow. Best chinese saw is probably the stihl ms170-ms180 assembled in usa ;) Met a guy that ran a 4 guy tree service that had a small mountain of blue saw carcasses. He justified buying them in the multi packs direct from china and would run them until they broke...about 4-6 months then he threw them in the pile and opened another one from his pallet vs buying stihl at a cost of 4 of the blue version. He said they were under powered vs stihl but the end cost justified the method because every so often he would fix one using two others and often purchased new stihl carbs and clutch drum kits for them to keep on hand. I asked about bottom end longevity and he said some just come apart from crank or bearing failure but often it is the plastic tank/handle that fails from leakage at the seams, vents or they just crack. Most tree service groups around here run one 362 around large equipment or ms 17-180s for groundies...our local stihl dealers falsely condemn "low compression" on used out of warranty equipment in for repairs to sell more new units.
 
I have to disagree with you on one point and that is, don't matter if the engine is NA or TC, the air flow through a clean and oiled K&N will pass fine dirt no matter. TC don't pulse the air at all and I suggest to you that next time you clean the filter, use Bel-Ray filter oil. At least the Bel-Ray has some viscosity to it. K&N oil is very thin. I have at least 10 bottles of the K&N oil here and a few cleaning kits as well.
 
I have to disagree with you on one point and that is, don't matter if the engine is NA or TC, the air flow through a clean and oiled K&N will pass fine dirt no matter. TC don't pulse the air at all and I suggest to you that next time you clean the filter, use Bel-Ray filter oil. At least the Bel-Ray has some viscosity to it. K&N oil is very thin. I have at least 10 bottles of the K&N oil here and a few cleaning kits as well.
the aerosol k&n filter oil I use is much like multi viscosity spray grease...I often use it to coat freshly cleaned battery terminals to prevent future corrosion as it sticks and clings quite well. For aesthetics the red color is quite pleasing to customers :)
I find people over apply the oil, use the wrong version and rush the job causing a multitude of self made issues.
 
I will add that running an oiled pleated or oiled foam air cleaner element in front of a MAF sensor in a modern emissions controlled, fuel injected engine will cause the MAF sensor to fail prematurely because the air flow through the filter media will pull microscopic droplets of filter oil out and contaminate the MAF sensor's wires. You can clean them with MAF sensor cleaner but most times it don't work.
 
I ran a K&N oiled filter on my 99 Silverado without 1 lick of problems or a failed or dirty MAF for 14 yrs. Of course, I did fallow the cleaning and re-oiling directions to a T.... Gotta let that new oil wick itself fully into the media.... does take some time and nobody likes that.
 
I ran a K&N oiled filter on my 99 Silverado without 1 lick of problems or a failed or dirty MAF for 14 yrs. Of course, I did fallow the cleaning and re-oiling directions to a T.... Gotta let that new oil wick itself fully into the media.... does take some time and nobody likes that.
Some people are lucky, some aren't.
 
K&N filters are fine for most things.
I wont run them on a dirt bike or atv, foam filters are much better for those but my car and street bike both have K&N filters.
K&N filters are more than good enough for a chainsaw, most saws have a plastic fine mesh filter that doesnt stop any fine dust lol.
 
I'm sure you will really appreciate 'free market capitalism' when you start eating raw fish with chopsticks.... It's coming maybe sooner that you realize.
C’mon bro. That’s some conspiratorial ********. This idea of China ruling the world is tom foolery. You do not understand macro economics and geopolitics. Btw I eat land mammals.
 
I bought a Chinesium top-handle a while back. No mods, it has been 100% reliable and starts every time. Sure it uses a 25:1 mix, so I keep a separate fuel jug for it.
Some people tell me that it won't last 40 years like a "real" saw... so what? I won't even be above ground in 40 years let alone cutting wood. If I'm still cutting in 5 years, that'd be great. 10 years, that'd be greater. 15 years, well, that'd be a miracle. My kids have neither the property nor the profession to need a saw, so whatever is left will probably go in a dumpster because nobody is going to want to take any more time than necessary to clean up.
 
I bought a Chinesium top-handle a while back. No mods, it has been 100% reliable and starts every time.
In a weak moment, so did I actually, a Neo whatever and t was a turd so I gave it away. A weak moment to be sure. Like your sig line too about HF, I do as well but only the top end stuff like Icon. Some stuff is worth having while some stuff isn't, but that is life.
 
Bought in 2018 a clone of the 200T when first came out. Used last 3-4 days after storm. Cuts just like my oem 35cc 200T did too. Will it last who knows, but 5 years of my homeowner uses already. At 200 new PHO it dont owe me nothing already.

Also bought a 25cc zenoah clone one too in Joncutter 2500 6.5lbs PHO for around 100. Cut like a 25cc to me. Local liked it more then me so did some trading.

40:1 in everything from get go.


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