I have an ipl for a D44, S44, 1-70/1/2 all wrapped into one. It listed a 57732 as a seal for a 1-72. Although I may have read it wrong, or the ipl may be wrong. What part numbers do your ipl say?
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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O.K. I found it, Figure 9, Item 44, lists three options:
102940 which I don't have
104432 which is .669x1.378
57732 which is .781x1.375
Check your crankshaft to make sure which you actually have as the crankshaft and crankcase could be different depending on the serial number/build date.
Mark
102940 which I don't have
104432 which is .669x1.378
57732 which is .781x1.375
Check your crankshaft to make sure which you actually have as the crankshaft and crankcase could be different depending on the serial number/build date.
Mark
mikeike1977
ArboristSite Lurker
Target Quickie based on the 795L power head.
From the factory they were equipped with the flat back/primer carburetor but many were converted to a Tillotson HL as service guys were more comfortable with the Tillotson.
Mark
From the factory they were equipped with the flat back/primer carburetor but many were converted to a Tillotson HL as service guys were more comfortable with the Tillotson.
Mark
I have a Target and a Stow, I haven't seen a Koehring yet.
The Target is cleaned up and in the display, the Stow is still waiting...
Mark
The Target is cleaned up and in the display, the Stow is still waiting...
Mark
mikeike1977
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for the information, I was going to use it as a concrete saw. Doesn’t seem too practical now
I believe it's recommended to Loctite those screws in on the 600 series saws.Bob J.said the reason they backed out was because they were ground to a point & that prevented them from being tightened all the way.
I had a Timber Bear have 2 screws back out while running & shear off the other 2.It was not a pretty sight.I had to replace the oil tank as 2 screws were broke off in it & the coil to
ne of the screws had found it's way lodged between the flywheel & coil.This ticked me off as I'd just gotten the saw running again after replacing the FW crank seal.The local saw shop couldn't figure out what was wrong with it.When I told them it was the crank seal & asked them to rerplace it,they wanted nothing to do with it.That was before I knew how to do crank seals.The saw sat for over 2 yrs.till I learned how to replace seals.palebird71
ArboristSite Lurker
I have got a 1-52 which has seen some wear and tear. Just pulled it down and the crank and rod have got some bad wear areas. What interchanges with the 1-52? And are there any recommended sites for gaskets? The air filter had a big hole in it and the crankcase was filthy as a result. Never seen it that bad before.
Excised the SP80 today, nice to let it sing in some big pine.
Mactastic Lol
I have never had the privilege of cutting pine of any significant size. I bet it is fun cutting but not so much fun cleaning off the sap.
Are there many cotton mouths in the lake?
Ron
mikeike1977
ArboristSite Lurker
If anyone is interested in it let me know I’m open to getting rid of it
Hey Mark, looks like the seal on my 1-72 is in fact a 57732
N
No not this lake.
Rallyeguy
ArboristSite Member
I make tank gaskets for these, and if you have a flatback carb I also have those diaphragms and fuel control gaskets
Tank Gaskets for Front tank mcculloch's: https://www.oldsawshop.com/search?keyword="1-52"
Flatback Gasket and diaphragm: https://www.oldsawshop.com/McCulloch-Flatback-Carburetor-kit-Mac-9-p561950577
Reed block gasket : https://www.oldsawshop.com/Airbox-B...C-49C-Kart-797-795-740-1-71-&-1-72-p559093532
Working on getting a D-port gasket up as well will post that later when its finished.
Since Uncle passed I have spent some time turning wrenches on saws. It's been therapeutic. Two PM 10-10's completely refurbished. He never cared for working on the non A/V 10 series saws much. Said the 82cc A/V saws were easier. I am opposite. The last lot of saws I bought, he was with me, Seven saws in total. Two PM 10-10's. Two PM 10-10S's, and three PM 700's. I am gonna get them all going. So far its a crank seal vest lol. Took both the 10-10's all the way down. Anyway, Thats what I have been up to of late along with conducting regular business otherwise. Hope everyone is doing well.
lincolnscott7
ArboristSite Member
So I wanted to ask here as I'm sure someone has got to know but what causes all the bigger AV mccullochs (Super Pro 70, 80, 81, and even the pro mac 850 and others that share this frame and anti vibe) to have crooked stance or just plain look "off"??
I see it mostly on the bottom clamp piece that holds the bar to the body and then the gas tank will be crooked from the main body.
I have included a photo to try and explain what I mean. I think it has to do with the handlebar being bent and "pulling" the gas tank to one direction from the main body (engine section) of the saw.
You can see the gap on the bottom clamp is much larger on one side than the other.
Now I know this probably isn't a big deal at all in terms of usability but just can't stand the way they look like this and makes the saw just look "dopey" and hobbled together..
Thanks folks!!!
I see it mostly on the bottom clamp piece that holds the bar to the body and then the gas tank will be crooked from the main body.
I have included a photo to try and explain what I mean. I think it has to do with the handlebar being bent and "pulling" the gas tank to one direction from the main body (engine section) of the saw.
You can see the gap on the bottom clamp is much larger on one side than the other.
Now I know this probably isn't a big deal at all in terms of usability but just can't stand the way they look like this and makes the saw just look "dopey" and hobbled together..
Thanks folks!!!
lincolnscott7
ArboristSite Member
But to add, I believe it is the upper portion where the handle meets the gas tank but I could be wrong completely.
I have noticed that the bottom clamp can be crooked and the saw can still be straight. That's why I believe the handle bar / gas tank is the main issue. Thank you for your time.
Oh here's the photo without my markup on it so you can see it better (I notice now that this is not a very good photo to show what I am referring to.) I hope you understand.
I have noticed that the bottom clamp can be crooked and the saw can still be straight. That's why I believe the handle bar / gas tank is the main issue. Thank you for your time.
Oh here's the photo without my markup on it so you can see it better (I notice now that this is not a very good photo to show what I am referring to.) I hope you understand.
I know exactly what ya mean and bothers me also.
Pretty sure yup it's the handle as when ya take off it can sit where it wants to.
I just tinker with the handle till they sit straight again.
I feel sad for that butchered up wrap handle
The 81 I built is a little off like that too, but the AV is 50 years old and a little torqued? Soild but just a bit twisted. Idk if straightening the handle wouldn't compromise the AV?
The low hour 800 I built is almost perfectly straight.
The low hour 800 I built is almost perfectly straight.
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