Chainsaw trencher attachment?

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I have an extra 455 Rancher and some old go to hell bars and chains, and have used it is a shallow trencher when I've needed one, but just for small amounts of work. Wouldn't try to use it for a whole irrigation project. Has saved me time on some of my wife's gardening projects though lol.
Not sure how far he's trenching. If it was a few feet, it wouldn't be a big deal.

Around the farm I just use a tractor and single tree subsoil implement, tie the water line behind the implement and lay the water line down as you cut the trench.

I have a single shank just for that purpose.

I like this idea, but where he needs to trench is too restricted for the tractor to access.
 
Not sure how far he's trenching. If it was a few feet, it wouldn't be a big deal.
I'm not sure beyond the bar and chain what damage it might do to the saw by doing a lot. Probably wouldn't do a rim sprocket any favors but shouldn't affect a spur sprocket too much. Might ruin the needle bearing but those are cheap. Maybe it would help to run the saw upside down so it's flinging sand and dirt off the tip instead of back into the drive sprocket. Will test that out next time I try it.
 
... When fall comes you blow them out with air.

True, but that is really a dirty trick pulled on the customers. A properly designed system doesn't need to be blown out.

Essential elements:
  • King drains! These are cheap little automatic drains that you install at any low places and at the ends of an irrigation line. With no low points holding water, there is nothing to freeze.
  • Use freeze-proof lines & fittings. They are pretty common now. Not so much in older systems that used PVC.
  • Careful design, so that the system is self draining. This involves putting the system deep enough that the heads will be drained and then the whole system should run downhill to end drains when the water is shut off.
  • End drains. While the king drains are ok, they are not as reliable as a well designed system that has gravel pits at the end of each zone, along with a manually opened drain that assures proper function. This is an uncommon feature, and not usually installed.
 
I use a single point 3 point hitch ripper for laying electrical cable but you need a tractor with balls, front wheel assist, R1 bar tread tires and substantial weight to do it. The one I own you can actually feed the cable or plastic water pipe through the ripper frame and into the bottom of the ripper shank point the install whatever you are installing. Up here however, water lines must be 48" or better to not freeze so when I do that (rarely), I use a rented ditch witch or for a short run, I borrow one of my friends, TLB's with a narrow ditching bucket on it.

Go rent one is my comment and the chainsaw one in the video, looks to me like a dirty, nasty setup. Much better to rent one and not have to deal with what I consider a heavy maintenance item. All dirt or whatever is highly abrasive to begin with.

If you have a tractor with sufficient balls (I own 3 in the 90-100 pto power range and all are FWA and all are pretty heavy (7-10K range), a single point cable plow (not vibrating which is what most phone and utility companies use) or a dedicated trencher, works and they are not expensive, less than 500 bucks but maybe more with inflation, but not much more I'd hope and any tractor dealer or farm box store like TSC can either have one or can get you one.

A vibrating single point does the job faster, can sever small tree roots and displace smaller buried rocks too but they aren't cheap and require hydraulic remotes and sufficient fluid flow to run the hydraulic powered vibrating power pack but they still require a tractor with sufficient balls and tractive weight.

Have fun and rent one because the onus of maintenance of one lies with the rental company, not you.
 
True, but that is really a dirty trick pulled on the customers. A properly designed system doesn't need to be blown out.

Essential elements:
  • King drains! These are cheap little automatic drains that you install at any low places and at the ends of an irrigation line. With no low points holding water, there is nothing to freeze.
  • Use freeze-proof lines & fittings. They are pretty common now. Not so much in older systems that used PVC.
  • Careful design, so that the system is self draining. This involves putting the system deep enough that the heads will be drained and then the whole system should run downhill to end drains when the water is shut off.
  • End drains. While the king drains are ok, they are not as reliable as a well designed system that has gravel pits at the end of each zone, along with a manually opened drain that assures proper function. This is an uncommon feature, and not usually installed.
I will let the US Army Corps of Engineers know that you do not improve of the way they installed their system in 1994. I am sure they will thank you for your input 😊
 
I use a single point 3 point hitch ripper for laying electrical cable but you need a tractor with balls, front wheel assist, R1 bar tread tires and substantial weight to do it. The one I own you can actually feed the cable or plastic water pipe through the ripper frame and into the bottom of the ripper shank point the install whatever you are installing. Up here however, water lines must be 48" or better to not freeze so when I do that (rarely), I use a rented ditch witch or for a short run, I borrow one of my friends, TLB's with a narrow ditching bucket on it.

Go rent one is my comment and the chainsaw one in the video, looks to me like a dirty, nasty setup. Much better to rent one and not have to deal with what I consider a heavy maintenance item. All dirt or whatever is highly abrasive to begin with.

If you have a tractor with sufficient balls (I own 3 in the 90-100 pto power range and all are FWA and all are pretty heavy (7-10K range), a single point cable plow (not vibrating which is what most phone and utility companies use) or a dedicated trencher, works and they are not expensive, less than 500 bucks but maybe more with inflation, but not much more I'd hope and any tractor dealer or farm box store like TSC can either have one or can get you one.

A vibrating single point does the job faster, can sever small tree roots and displace smaller buried rocks too but they aren't cheap and require hydraulic remotes and sufficient fluid flow to run the hydraulic powered vibrating power pack but they still require a tractor with sufficient balls and tractive weight.

Have fun and rent one because the onus of maintenance of one lies with the rental company, not you.

My buddy has a tractor, but there's no access for a tractor where he wants to run the pipe.
 
My buddy has a tractor, but there's no access for a tractor where he wants to run the pipe.
Tractor wouldnt have worked for me either. No room. Back when I rented ditchwich.

Some must think in middle of farm fields only.

Watching all that new drainage installed in the fields now days pretty slick though.
 
I will let the US Army Corps of Engineers know that you do not improve of the way they installed their system in 1994. I am sure they will thank you for your input 😊

I'm sure that they are at full attention, waiting for you to share internet gossip with them.

How 'bout you give them a call, and see if they are still using 30 year old materials in their new designs.
 
I'm sure that they are at full attention, waiting for you to share internet gossip with them.

How 'bout you give them a call, and see if they are still using 30 year old materials in their new designs.
Well the folks that were in charge when the system was put in are sadly passed on now. The system is still keeping the grass green each sumner though. 😊
 
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