.325 replacement tip for a Stihl ES bar

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

unknwn

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2021
Messages
87
Reaction score
27
Location
Canton, Ohio 44721,
I've found two different Stihl Super E -ES- replaceable tip bars from different sources, each has a pile of chains accompanying.
The sprocket tip on each example has visibly seen better days, and I haven't been able to find any joy for .325 pitch sprocket tips through Stihl (or otherwise).
Is there any future in trying to fit Windsor Speed Tip bar ends, even if the factory holes (either the Windsor -or- Stihl ) wouldn't line up? I don't -KNOW- that they aren't compatible, but the Windsor SRA222 J12 part -IS- definitely available, where I can't even get the bar number on the Stihl bar to show up in a search, or questioning dealers.
I wouldn't mind reviving the .325 bars, especially since the nearly dozen chain loop to work with, but I won't even entertain buying the stuff if I can't find bar tips to fix at least on of them.
 
I followed up the suggestion of the Forester brand parts, and the .325 that's available is the same as that Windsor/(Carlton) Speed tip which is outfitted with 5 holes and -maybe- a quite different profile. There is a 3-hole version more suited to the Stihl ES bar, but it's only is available in 3/8 pitch.
I can buy the STA325 (Windsor/(Carlton) Speed tip profile) REAL cheap ($4.00 ea,), and the Forester Stihl(?) profile 3-hole is -always- $15.
Both versions have a similar 5-rivet sprocket retention. How hard would it be to swap the different pitch sprockets when there are 5-rivets.
My other option would be reconfigure the Windsor/(Carlton) Speed tip profile to match the Stihl 3-hole ES to get that .325 pitch ?
 
I took the plunge yesterday and bought those ES bars and .325 chain. I also got a pair of the .325 roller tips (Speed tip .325) so that I have fresh sprockets and bearings (minimum). If the tip assembly prove a satisfactory starting point I might attempt modifying one for use in the ES bar.
The seller I found these through sold me a -pair- for about $8, and the parts depicted are genuine Windsor Speed Tip replacements, (for whatever that might be worth), so (hopefully) I -might- not be struggling with chinee hogwash base material s for this experimental repair. We'll see though.
I've also found supply of the Forester tip/nose (only in 3/8 pitch though), and once I've received the other packages from several sources, and inspected what I've accumulated I will decide what to do about getting example s of that part to add to this scheme.
If either of the Stihl ES bar is grooved @ .050" I may just as well rejuvenate one of the bars as 3/8 pitch for use with my existing .375 chain loop s .
If anyone knows of a discount/promo code for the Forester Shop I would appreciate being able to save(?) how ever much on purchasing those final bits of this equation. Speaking of which, could anyone steer me toward source for rivets like what are used in assembling bar sprocket nose bearing inside a bar tip?
 
I've found if you press them out carefully chances of getting re-useable rivets is about 50/50... So if you have a couple of tips to dismantle you will hopefully have enough to put 1 back together. Be sure to support the material around the rivet as well as possible when you press it or it will deform. I've not heard of the sprocket retaining rivets being available like they are for the complete tip replacement, but if you find you need to drill them out you can probably source the right size generic countersunk steel rivets & grind the head down a bit so they sit flush... Or cut sections off some mild steel rod & hammer it on both sides.
Be sure to completely clear your work area, those little rollers can go for miles if they decide to make a brake for it. I found laying the assembly out on a piece of paper/baking paper helps with sliding it back into the tip.
Good luck, keep us posted
 
I haven't been to a Stihl dealer looking for rivets yet. I have seen sprocket/bearing kits advertised, and more than a few were genuine(?) Stihl, so it would seem that rivets for OE Stihl -might-(have been) be available?
Seems as if I've read (here, very likely) that chain bar application rivets can even be (??) aluminum (again-?)
-EVERYTHING- I've come across, so far as wisdom regarding fooling with bar tip sprocket and the fiddly bearings has originated on these hallowed pages!
 
For retaining the whole nose I would think aluminum to be fine, but for the sprocket itself where they have to support some of the chain load & could get extremely hot in the event of the sprocket failing I would be rather hesitant to use aluminum
 
That's the thread that convinced me that sprocket tipped bars are in need of scrutiny, and how to deal with the fiddly bearing circumstance.
Thanks for bringing it to the fore though. I will be studying it all again now that I've invested myself in several "hands on" bar resurrection escapades in the near future !
 
I'm looking for a way to get a 325 tip on my 42" stihl ES bar. How did this experiment work out? Were the forrester tips close or did you have to press the sprocket out of the tip?
 
I'm looking for a way to get a 325 tip on my 42" stihl ES bar. How did this experiment work out? Were the forrester tips close or did you have to press the sprocket out of the tip?
What is your motivation for putting 325 chain on a 42" bar if you don't mind me asking?
 
Your going backwards by adding cutters and using weaker links. These chains also have smaller link pins. I have new 325 ES bar tips and they are not easy to find. You are better off buying a GB lp setup.
Are you saying 3/8 .050 LP has stronger links than .325 .063? Let’s specifically compare 63PMX vs 26RM3. In reality I would probably get the skiptooth .325 archer chain so less cutters but can’t speak to their chain durability vs stihl.

What is the part number for the ES .325 tip? I’m guessing this would work on bars up to 36” but the 41” and 59” use a larger tip and different rivet pattern. I’ve already got a 3/8 tip coming for the bar to run skiptooth 3/8 on. I was just wanting a lower profile option in case this didn’t work out
 
Your going backwards by adding cutters and using weaker links. These chains also have smaller link pins. I have new 325 ES bar tips and they are not easy to find. You are better off buying a GB lp setup.

GB made a whole bunch of different length 3/8 Lp/picco bars with 3003 Stihl mounts, I forget the longest, 40"?. Before Left Coast went out of business they had a sale on them, I wish I had bought a bunch.

I got a 25" bar and 2 loops of Stihl PMX chain for $65 + shipping
 
Are you saying 3/8 .050 LP has stronger links than .325 .063? Let’s specifically compare 63PMX vs 26RM3. In reality I would probably get the skiptooth .325 archer chain so less cutters but can’t speak to their chain durability vs stihl.

What is the part number for the ES .325 tip? I’m guessing this would work on bars up to 36” but the 41” and 59” use a larger tip and different rivet pattern. I’ve already got a 3/8 tip coming for the bar to run skiptooth 3/8 on. I was just wanting a lower profile option in case this didn’t work out
I did some experimentation with .325 milling & found there to be very little difference in kerf width standard .325 vs standard 3/8... maybe 1mm. This may be different if using narrow kerf chain but then your chain becomes lighter & less durable & you have to find a bar to suit
 
Are you saying 3/8 .050 LP has stronger links than .325 .063? Let’s specifically compare 63PMX vs 26RM3. In reality I would probably get the skiptooth .325 archer chain so less cutters but can’t speak to their chain durability vs stihl.

What is the part number for the ES .325 tip? I’m guessing this would work on bars up to 36” but the 41” and 59” use a larger tip and different rivet pattern. I’ve already got a 3/8 tip coming for the bar to run skiptooth 3/8 on. I was just wanting a lower profile option in case this didn’t work out
Im hunting a big nose .404 ,for my 41" bar if your swapping out good ones?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top