Synthetic oil, more power?

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I'm glad to see that we have finally come around and admitted that I have been correct all along...Thank you.
Now that we have put this issue behind us... Which 2 cycle oil performs best? :smoking:

- Dino
- Synthetic
- Synergistic Blend
 
Hardly. Your conclusions are still very false.

Which conclusion? :smoking:

1. 220' C = 430' F
2. Combust = Ignite
3. Flash Point = Temp. that vapors will ignite
4. Synthetic has a higher Flash Point than dino
5. Synthetic burns cleaner than dino
6. Synthetic results in cleaner piston / combustion chamber
 
If husky claims it creates less wear,then it would take longer for the break-in period on a saw.Do we agree on that?


well maybe?

wear is something that happens over a long period.


break-in is a short term event that is seems impossible to determine if it is prolonged but one might speculate.


i would think it protects better at break-in from incorrect clearance preventing undue scoring.

no?



:givebeer:
 
You're trying to think of "break-in" as a type of severe wear on the engine. This is not the case. "Wear" is indicated by scored cylinder and poorly maintained engines. Break in period is totally different. If you consider on break in that an engine is supposed to lose a tiny amount of metal from the walls it's only to make it more round from the manufacturing process and NOT anything else. Synthetic Oil products simply allow it to reach that maximum metal loss in a much faster manor as it creates a smooth surface pretty quickly. If the type of oil created any type of noticeable wear difference between synthetic or dino on say 10 tanks of break in period your engine would have a serious problem. Synthetic has been around long enough that it's wear qualities have been raved over many times over.

Also understand that if you plan on running synthetic after your break in period of dino oil your thinking is flawed. Your break in period is not extended more then maybe 3 revolutions on the crank seriously, they're both oils created and backed by big names use whichever you prefer.
On a side note. I use synthetic in everything I own and on every car I sell at our car lot. Never had any problems with any vehicle I own relating to oil pump or severe engine wear. I also own two vehicles with over 200k miles on them and still no leaks and also run amazingly. Enjoy :cheers:

Josh
 
Also understand that if you plan on running synthetic after your break in period of dino oil your thinking is flawed. Your break in period is not extended more then maybe 3 revolutions on the crank seriously, they're both oils created and backed by big names use whichever you prefer.

the break in period is much longer than 3 revolutions. and its now regarded that a vehicle isn't fully broken in untill after the first 20,000km. this is based on how much metal is found in the oil. there is an absurd amount of metal comming off that engine for the first 10,000km and doesn't really quit untill 20,000km are up. after that the metal found in the oil is minimal.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html said:
Notice how each time we change the oil, there is still an initial spike of wear metals, but the spike is smaller at each phase. We are working on a hypothesis: that the true break-in of an engine is at least 20,000 miles, and that, perhaps, during the first year of an engine's use it would be wise to change more frequently, and only start moving toward extended oil changes once the engine is older. It'll be interesting to see what comes up in the Mobil 1 re-test phase.
 
kutty, ther is a big diff between a car and a saw.
 
Well I guess it's final then...although its not clear where you have corrected anyone, The attached msds states the Flash Point in degrees C, (220) and 220' C = 430' F. Although Flash Point may not be an absolute indicator it should be considered. Here is a test we can all try at home to determine if Flash Point is relevant... Drain your fuel tanks, refill them with 2 cycle oil and then go cut some wood. :smoking:


Well I do feel like a fool now,:dizzy: for I missed the whole C thing lol :givebeer:
 
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2T and Jack......Smooth.......






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the break in period is much longer than 3 revolutions. and its now regarded that a vehicle isn't fully broken in untill after the first 20,000km. this is based on how much metal is found in the oil. there is an absurd amount of metal comming off that engine for the first 10,000km and doesn't really quit untill 20,000km are up. after that the metal found in the oil is minimal.

I didn't say it was 3 revolutions I was saying the difference in break in time between synthetic and dino are that many different between them. And yes it does take some time to break in... hence why they tell you not to keep your car at high rev's for the first thousand or so miles. Drive it sensible and you'll be fine. On my Yamaha 700R raptor it says run a few tanks through and change the oil out... that's initial break in period on that particular engine. Basically don't be stupid with break in and you will typically have no worries.

Josh
 
Cylinder finish and ring design has greater influence on break in than oil type used.

Bingo!

Break in period is designed to smooth out the microscopic peaks produced in the machining process. That's it.

It's the same reason a cylinder is honed after it has been bored. It is very important to take the cylinder wall to a specific finish before put into use. Too rough and the rings will wear too quickly, to smooth and the oil can't properly lube the cylinder wall. The cylinder retains some grooves to retain oil for the rings to glide over.

Oil viscosity is also very important. Too thick and the parts will not touch enough, too thin and there is too much early contact, causing gaulding/scoring. Gear oil is a prime example.
 
wire

I like that one! :popcorn:

is anyone else getting dizzy with syn - no syn - dino - wait .. thank god we are not throwing tin cans over a CUMMINS inline 6 cyn and a FORD ...

:buttkick:
 
the break in period is much longer than 3 revolutions. and its now regarded that a vehicle isn't fully broken in untill after the first 20,000km. this is based on how much metal is found in the oil. there is an absurd amount of metal comming off that engine for the first 10,000km and doesn't really quit untill 20,000km are up. after that the metal found in the oil is minimal.

Break-in on a saw using synthetic oil takes twice as long as regular oil.It should never be used until the saw is fully broke in.The faster the break-in period.the better for the longivity of the saw.Think if it as useing 1000 grit sand paper instead of 220 when sanding something.the 220 get it there faster and more even.If done slower with 1000 grit,the end product would be wavyier and not as flat.That is what is happening to a cylinder wall when broke in slower.Not as flat and true.This is not an old wives tale as earlier stated by someone.It's common since.:buttkick:
 

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