pp 295

this little poulan pro is fine but does vapor lock occasionally..i use 93 octane mix in everything.. i was wondering iuf mabe his saw mite not vapor lock,, on reg gas.. if so im gonna sellit as i aint keeping 2 different mixes just for that saw. any help appreciated

Can anyone explain what vapor lock is? I think the symptoms are that a hot saw is hard to start, but that seems to be more of a carburetor issue and not so much a fuel issue. I don't think there's a big enough difference in the vapor pressure of regular (87 octane) fuel versus 93 octane that would cure/cause vapor lock.

to me vapor lock is when u working and getting real hot u self.. u go to finish your cutsafter cutting u saw off ,,an the the dang thig wont crank.. saw wont do me that way many times an stay in my arsenal..
another reason i guess to spend the exstra bucks on a 026 or some other
dependable saw..

I've heard that the poulan's need to be started with a few squeezes of the primer first, even hot. Seems odd, but I think i remember that off some other forum... There's lots of discussion on these saws atthe ????????? Toolshed.

Individual saws have there idiosyncracies. I 've had a couple that ran fine but had to be choked when restarting hot. I've got one now that I need to tinker with-you have to baby it to get it to run when starting cold-once warm it runs and idles great.

Poulan Pro

Tony, the next time you get it real hot and it doesn't crank right up try setting it on fast idle. Pull out the choke lever then push it back in and then give it a pull. This works for my Poulan Pro.

alrite thanks for he advice.. by the way i aint looking at it rite now ,,but i think this model is where they dropped the primer bulb..the 260 does but not the 295 ,,unless im mistaken.., which as yall know is neabout impossible..

Originally posted by rmihalek
Can anyone explain what vapor lock is? I think the symptoms are that a hot saw is hard to start, but that seems to be more of a carburetor issue and not so much a fuel issue. I don't think there's a big enough difference in the vapor pressure of regular (87 octane) fuel versus 93 octane that would cure/cause vapor lock.

Click to expand...

I havent refreshed this info in a few years but here goes; gasoline will start to boil at roughly 140 degrees F. which is reached in the carb after the heat transfers out of the cylinder after you shut down. The vapour bubbles interfere with the fuel pumping part of the carb, which is why pulling the choke will sometimes help pull in some fresh cooler gas and get things going. The rubber boots between cylinder and carb. on newer Husky and Stihl saws helps reduce heat transfer into the carbs, but if enough heat builds up that the fuel in the gas tank is starting to bubble, ther is not much you can do but let it totally cool off.

Frank

thanks frank .. not that ill remember it tommorrow.. but the pictures clear today..

Had an afterthought regarding vaporlock. The gas cap can have an effect on this too. pressurizing a liquid raises its vapor (boiling) point about 3 degrees for every pound pressure, so a 5 psi. would have quite an effect on reducing vapor lock. Now if the cap is holding a vacuum, it would have the reverse effect and lower the temperature where vapor bubbles occur. This just might be worth a try to change the cap if you have a saw that seems especially prone to vaporlock.

Frank

its a thot brother.. ill give it a try before i give up on the saw.. like ive said before ,this wouldnt be a biggee for lots o folks.. but when im hot an tired ,just aint the time for a machine to give me trouble..
mabe this new cap of my own desighn will work.. hope so cause its a good little performer otherwise.