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Jeff J Greilich

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 24, 2016
Messages
132
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Location
Mukwonago, WI
I have an 026 that won't fire up, not even popping. I rebuilt the carb, changed the impulse line and fuel line. It is getting a spark when I lay the plug across the cylinder. I am wondering if the on/off assembly is grounding this out or something. I've enclosed a pic...can someone tell me if this looks okay? Or is there something else I can look into? Thank you!20180310_233154.jpg
 
if its getting a spark then its not the kill switch, if its not the choke as the above suggests? then its more than likely an air leak somewhere effecting the impulse/pumping fuel to the carb/engine? is it getting fuel to the engine? can you see a vapour coming through the sparkplug hole etc. when pulling it over? is there a kink in the fuel line? did you rebuild the carb correctly? if all these are o.k ? then your looking at oil seals and or intake boot as prime suspects for an air leak, but they could be other causes for air-leaks such as cylinder base gasket, crankcase gasket, cracked crankcase, cracked cylinder etc. the oil seal on the clutch side is relatively easy to change. CD
 
Thanks Captain Dangers, and Trains. I got it running!

I bought an aftermarket Fuel Line, which is too long, and it seems to run fine when the air filter is off, but when I put on the air filter, it kinks the line.

I appreciate your input!

On another note, I received an intake manifold with the AM kit I bought for this saw. What do I need to take off of this saw to get at the Intake Manifold? Seems pretty difficult to replace.
Thanks, Jeff
 
Thanks Captain Dangers, and Trains. I got it running!

I bought an aftermarket Fuel Line, which is too long, and it seems to run fine when the air filter is off, but when I put on the air filter, it kinks the line.

I appreciate your input!

On another note, I received an intake manifold with the AM kit I bought for this saw. What do I need to take off of this saw to get at the Intake Manifold? Seems pretty difficult to replace.
Thanks, Jeff
the good news is you got it running and its running well, so don't bother with the intake boot swap until you need to. when you do decide to change the boot?the carb has to come off , the carry handle has to come off and the anti-vibe mounts to make it easier. alternatively you could remove the carb and cylinder and do it that way? they are not that bad to do once you have done one, they just appear difficult at first and a pain in the jit. I like to apply a little grease to mine where it slips over the cylinder flange, this aids fitting as well as maintains a good seal. be sure to remember to fit the little metal collar inside the carb end of the boot before fitting the carb. CD
 
the good news is you got it running and its running well, so don't bother with the intake boot swap until you need to. when you do decide to change the boot?the carb has to come off , the carry handle has to come off and the anti-vibe mounts to make it easier. alternatively you could remove the carb and cylinder and do it that way? they are not that bad to do once you have done one, they just appear difficult at first and a pain in the jit. I like to apply a little grease to mine where it slips over the cylinder flange, this aids fitting as well as maintains a good seal. be sure to remember to fit the little metal collar inside the carb end of the boot before fitting the carb. CD

Thank you, my good man. I appreciate this.
 
if its getting a spark then its not the kill switch, if its not the choke as the above suggests? then its more than likely an air leak somewhere effecting the impulse/pumping fuel to the carb/engine? is it getting fuel to the engine? can you see a vapour coming through the sparkplug hole etc. when pulling it over? is there a kink in the fuel line? did you rebuild the carb correctly? if all these are o.k ? then your looking at oil seals and or intake boot as prime suspects for an air leak, but they could be other causes for air-leaks such as cylinder base gasket, crankcase gasket, cracked crankcase, cracked cylinder etc. the oil seal on the clutch side is relatively easy to change. CD
good summary I,d say!
 
One more thing, if I may. The switch shaft on this 026 is malfunctioning. In order to "choke" it, I have to push the lever all the way to the bottom, as I pull the starter cord, as it isn't quote going all the way down on its own. When I try to shut down the saw, and push the lever all the way to the top, it won't kill the saw. Is there an adjustment, or should I bite the bullet and buy a new assembly. And, I'm not sure what I'd need to buy to make this fix.

Thank you for the help, gents.
Jeff
 
I bought an aftermarket Fuel Line, which is too long, and it seems to run fine when the air filter is off, but when I put on the air filter, it kinks the line.

Thanks, Jeff
Be sure that longer fuel line is below the throttle rod and not sandwiched between the air filter and the throttle rod. It should work OK then.
 
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