036 Pro won't hold vacuum?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
A proper leak down test???
Yes lets pop some real pressure on a 2 stroke in a leak down test.
We did leak down tests on 4 stroke engines all the time but if you put that kind of pressure on a 2 stroke you will have the seals singing a song.

Try a pressure test, low pressure 7 1/2 to 10lbs.

Having worked on 2 and 4 stroke gas, diesel and a few alki engines when i hear leak down test i think high pressure.

Help the OP and your input may also benefit some of the more experienced with new insight.
 
I just used my compressor on the lowest possible setting, not sure of exact pressure? Couldn't find any obvious leaks.
If this is how you guys do a leakdown test, well.... More power to you all.

Yeah, this site used to have a decade off good pic and video knowledge that Is no longer, and all of the old great members wasted
all of that effort. It is a total shame really.......
 
So you all just throw the air to it while looking for bubbles underwater? It was taught at the Stihl schools is to pump the psi up to 10 or so, come back in 15 minutes or more, and see if it the same. Then do the same with a vacuum. That is how they justified selling all of those silly little blockoff tools and such.....
 
After finally getting my air compressor set at the lowest possible setting, 10psi is when I used soapy water from a spray bottle to find fly wheel side leak. I then called my local stihl guy and dropped off my saw for new seals. I was trying so hard to be careful with how much air I used to detect leak. I found that it takes constant pressure to find leak.
 
So you all just throw the air to it while looking for bubbles underwater? It was taught at the Stihl schools is to pump the psi up to 10 or so, come back in 15 minutes or more, and see if it the same. Then do the same with a vacuum. That is how they justified selling all of those silly little blockoff tools and such.....
That don't pinpoint the leak you miss the whole idea of the water the saw is still blocked off the same way .
 
The bubble test and leakdown test serve two different purposes. The leakdown determines if you actually have a leak and the bubble test aids in locating the leak.
 
I guess. How do you pinpoint where there is a vacuum leak?

That is the topic of this thread, more or less. Back to an earlier question. The original saw ran great until the circlip let loose, correct? What makes you so interested in doing a vacuum leak test? A vacuum leak didn't cause the circlip failure.... Or
did it? I am not trying to fight really, just wondering what made you think that you has an air leak.
 
I guess. How do you pinpoint where there is a vacuum leak?

That is the topic of this thread, more or less. Back to an earlier question. The original saw ran great until the circlip let loose, correct? What makes you so interested in doing a vacuum leak test? A vacuum leak didn't cause the circlip failure.... Or
did it? I am not trying to fight really, just wondering what made you think that you has an air leak.
I give up how do you pinpint a Vac leak?
 
I guess. How do you pinpoint where there is a vacuum leak?

That is the topic of this thread, more or less. Back to an earlier question. The original saw ran great until the circlip let loose, correct? What makes you so interested in doing a vacuum leak test? A vacuum leak didn't cause the circlip failure.... Or
did it? I am not trying to fight really, just wondering what made you think that you has an air leak.
Wasn't there a leak found?
 
....mmmm maybe then you should just work on Harley's .....:D
Nah, I just remember when he changed his name about7 or 8 years ago. It works, you get instant credibility, like Stihl Tech received. Simon had to be the hated new guy for a few months. Lakeside and Thall, well they earned it the old fashioned way.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top