050 051 075 076 Info Thread

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Of all people, I figured you'd know what I was referring to...

'Heat shield', no. Muffler guard(s) as found on the handle assembly page, yes. Sorry for not realizing what you meant.

There were actually two different guard versions; a 6006 and a 6007 to accommodate three different muffler covers. Later IPLs show the 6009 as superseding both.

Your spacers (bushings in the IPL) are #34 / 0000-963-1006 in an earlier 075AV IPL. (If it were me I'd just use a couple old trimmer wrist pins!) LOL

Hope this helps.

Bushing.jpg
 
Excellent! Turns out that the one I have is a 6007. I have a 6009 here as well, and it does indeed fit without spacers! However, it's NOS and it would look silly on this saw, which has a fair amount of patina.

I found spacers for sale on eBay at a reasonable price, so I'll get those ordered. The M5x20 screws are too short to use with the spacers so I got some M5x35 socket head screws ordered from McMaster-Carr.

Thanks!
 
Could you be just a little more vague? LOL

That's like walking up to a NAPA parts counter and asking if they have a gasket for a blue car..., with the typical response being, "Does it have whitewalls?"
Heh, we actually get questions like that. "It's a '95 or 2013, the year doesn't really matter though, does it?" "Why won't a six lug rotor work on my 5-lug truck and just have an extra hole?" "I'm not sure what the part is, but it's on the top of the motor." :dizzy:
 
Next issue - now that I have the 076 back together, it loses spark and dies after running for a few minutes. Once it's cooled off for a while, it will start again and run for 2 minutes or so and then die. Again.

No points, so I'm dealing with a coil and a module or something like that (Stihl calls it a switch box) behind the flywheel. My guess is that one or the other is going bad and will need to be replaced. I have an 076 Super that ended up being a parts saw that I could rob parts from, so I'm inclined to swap the coil & module from the Super and see if that does the trick.

Anyone have any experience with these symptoms on an 1111 series saw?
 
Thanks for the warning, but no way would that create a problem running a 3/8 setup if everything was correctly matched -- especially with .063. I run a 36" 3/8 .050 full comp setup on a very healthy 066 flat top with over 200psi that would run rings around that saw. Do I need to periodically adjust the bar, sure. Am I 'stretching' the chain? No. Do chains really 'stretch'? No. Does eventual wear between the rivets, tie straps and drive links make people think chains stretch? Yes. And that actually takes some time after initial break-in use has set (pre-stretched?) those stress points. It can be accelerated by using crap bar oil and running in dirty conditions which will obviously speed up the wear process, but nothing stretches. It just lengthens. Or..., the bar 'shortens'.

Check the adjuster and the mating between the bar and bar mount for problems or anomalies. Make 100% sure the studs are completely threaded into the case and the bolt shoulders aren't extended to the point of being up against the sprocket cover when everything is snugged up or are working loose just enough for the bar to slip.

What bar are you using? Does it have the correct sprocket cover?

I'm putting my money on a chain adjustment problem, not the chain -- certainly not the mods., But that said, it definitely sounds like you covered quite a bit of territory there to build a very cool saw. Pics and vids are always appreciated!
I ordered and shipped my friend a new chain adjuster, its little rubber shim and a new bar plate for it a few weeks after he picked up the saw. He claims while replacing the adjuster he found the old adjuster looked fine with nothing out of the ordinary found. After replacement the chain no longer droops off the bar after every cut so i'd say it was a real issue and thank you for the suggestion to check it.
2 of the 6 chains I included with the saw were damaged to the point they could be laid out on a table and pushed/pulled over 1/2 of a inch due to tie strap damage around the rivets. He still has to tighten up the chain after every tank of fuel so I instructed him to get a 404 setup once the remaining chains are used up. The deal I got for him on that 3/8 .063 bar and 6 chains was under 250 bucks making it hard to pass, In the south east 3/8 chain can be found everywhere loops are spun vs having to order 404 or searching all day for a shop that carries it.
 
First post here on this sticky.I have 3 Stihls now - MS310,MS250,& 017.I'm looking to possibly get a couple bigger ones,an 038 Magnum & an 050 AV.The 050 has some starter issues as I understand it & I'm wondering about the availability of starter parts for it? I've looked on feebay & saw they have the friction washers,but didn't find any starter cups.
 
I just added to my Stihl collection with an 051AV.It's missing the clutch cover,so if anyone has one laying around they'd like to sell,let me know.I also posted in the Trading Post section.
 
Anybody ever seen or used a tilly hs-138 carb on 051/076 saws? Thought I had the regular hs-60 on my 051, but when looking for the governor screw, there was none to be seen. Turned out it is a hs138a which shows as a 041 carb. Tillotson says it has the same venturi diameter and lists same repair and diaphragm kits, but no governor on 138. I cannot find any info on fuel feed rates for the two carbs, so not sure if hs138 would be putting out too little fuel for 051? Btw, saw runs on it and four strokes at wot, but that could also be due to AM ignition module, or too rich high setting on the carb.
 
If it's 4-stroking at wot in the neighborhood of 10,000K it's getting enough fuel unless the aftermarket ignition module has a limited ceiling and you're banging into that. Start ultra fat and lean it out a little at a time and see how it behaves. If you have a tach, even better.

I think 10,500 is about max no load.
 
If it's 4-stroking at wot in the neighborhood of 10,000K it's getting enough fuel unless the aftermarket ignition module has a limited ceiling and you're banging into that. Start ultra fat and lean it out a little at a time and see how it behaves. If you have a tach, even better.

I think 10,500 is about max no load.
Thanks for checking in, I got puzzled it would 4stroke as if it had the governor, forgetting that any carb will 4stroke if H is adjusted fat. What wuld be the RPM increase on HS60 carbs when governor is disabled and keeping reasonably rich H? If memory still serves me, governor should kick in at around 8500 and ungoverned carb should do what you wrote above, 10500 max?
Unfortunately, no tach here, so will have to do by ear when the wood stops being frozen, and try tuning it to not rev too much, but that it still cuts. I wonder how much the increased rpms stress the saw in the long run eg when milling?
 
You are talking a tractor here, not a performance machine. Adjust so it 4 stokes out of the wood, smooths out in.
There was a reason they were governed. Not an 066.
It was one of the logging saws in 81 when I started. Young guys wanted the speed. Older guys wanted the torque.
Maybe that is why 051s are still around.
 
I wonder how much the increased rpms stress the saw in the long run eg when milling?
Depends on the oil. LOL

Seriously though, run a 40:1 or so mix ratio with good synthetic oil and keep the chain oil flowing and it should be fine if it's still just at the edge of 4-stroking while in the cut.

BTW, it's my understanding that not all variations of the HS-60 had governors. May be why there's a 041 carb on your saw, though.

051 No Load RPMs.jpg
 
You are talking a tractor here, not a performance machine.
I love tractors. Even my motorcycle is a tractor. And that is how I'd like to keep it, I see some of these saws modded to make them screamers, but it is not what I need it to be. Hence the curiosity if the missing governor can be compensated by tuning a bit richer than usual.
 
BTW, it's my understanding that not all variations of the HS-60 had governors. May be why there's a 041 carb on your saw, though.
I better remmeber this if I want to pick up a used hs60 to have it governed!
anyway, this saw was beaten down and then killed by a locating pin getting out of the piston, doing couple of turns in the crankcase and finally blowing through the transfers and breaking P, C and rings. I picked it up non working as spares only. We'll see if it will want to have a second life on a mill..
 
Hello,
I have finally read this entire thread and all links that address the 051 to 075 conversion. I think it is my understanding that the early 051 cases are hard, maybe impossible, to convert due to the 2 openings in their cases that fall outside the footprint of the 075 cylinder base. I suppose that the tabs or flanges on the 051 cylinder bases cover these. I have not only found listings on eBay for 075 compatible cylinders that have these tabs, but the Cross Performance 075 cylinder kit on HL Supply appears to have them as well. Does this mean that earlier 051 cases are now viable candidates for the conversion with a simple 6mm tapping and all 075 parts listed before here in the thread, i.e. muffler, studs, etc? Here is the HL Supply product page and a random eBay listing. Is there something I am missing? Is the case difference really matter? I am new to this, but my grandfathers old saw from the early 70s is coming my way and I would like to get into milling. I appreciate the time to read this much.

Thanks again
Cw
 

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