064.. postmortum
- Thread starter Lakeside53
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Peacock
Addicted to ArboristSite
bcorradi
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el cheapo washer over here is 120 euro or some 160$, probably because blue paint is more expensive :monkey:
I must have gotten a crossbreed of yours and andy's...mine is red and blue
.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
grandpatractor
Addicted to ArboristSite
The parts washer that we use at work uses a soapy water that is heated to 120 degrees and works suprisingly well. The water stays real clean since the oily stuff floats to the top of the barrel and the dirt sinks to the bottom. The pickup it in the middle. It's pretty safe too since it isn't flammable.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Bearings into case
Usual stuff.. So I'll concentrate on the more practical problems.
Heat both case sides for about 20 minutes at 250-300F in a convection oven. Be sure to first remove any rubber parts AND the oil tank vent.
Flywheel side - just drop it in the hot hole. Make sure it bottoms.
Clutch side. Stihl wants youi to mount the oil pump into a hot case first, then press the bearing in from the inside until it locates aganst the pump. Like this (bearing is already in for this pic.
I have better luck pressing the bearing in from the outside (better flush surface to bear on with the case), leaving it a little high, then just place the pump over the bearing and press it in with an arbor.
Replace the oil tank vent.
Ready to put the crank in.
Usual stuff.. So I'll concentrate on the more practical problems.
Heat both case sides for about 20 minutes at 250-300F in a convection oven. Be sure to first remove any rubber parts AND the oil tank vent.
Flywheel side - just drop it in the hot hole. Make sure it bottoms.
Clutch side. Stihl wants youi to mount the oil pump into a hot case first, then press the bearing in from the inside until it locates aganst the pump. Like this (bearing is already in for this pic.
I have better luck pressing the bearing in from the outside (better flush surface to bear on with the case), leaving it a little high, then just place the pump over the bearing and press it in with an arbor.
Replace the oil tank vent.
Ready to put the crank in.
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Bowtie
Gearhead
What you going to do with this saw when you get done with it...
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Insert the crank etc
Insert crank into the flywheel side of the case. Light oil on the bearing and crank stub.
Using Stihl's ZS tool, screw it on the crank and just pull the crank though the bearing. Real easy... you can easily make this tool in its simplest form - the puller.
Put the clutch side tool on the crank, secure to the bar studs and pull it onto the crank a little. Insert the gasket and put a few screw into the case to hold the gasket in place. Continue tightening until the case it almost closed, then insert the case pins. These pin are very important - they were used to register the case when machined, and are needed to keep it all perfectly aligned. Put in all the case screws and tighten in a cross pattern.
Trim the gasket.. It needs to be flush at the cylinder base and under the muffler. A foil shield will be placed over the case under the muffler.
Now.... the important part. The crank will not be centered and/or may not spin freely. It needs to be "adjusted" so it it centered in the case AND spins freely - i.e. the bearings are centered in their races. The bearings are radial deep groove types with C3 clearances (more than "normal") that result in several thou axial movement between the inner and outer races. Biasing the bearings hard to one side or the other will reduce their life considerably.
I use a combination of tapping on the end with a POLY hammer, and pulling of the crank with the Stihl tool. It takes a couple of minutes, but when done, you can be assured the bearings are free and the crank is correctly displaced. If you put the seals in BEFORE this step, it's real hard to tell if the drag is from the seals or the bearings.
Insert crank into the flywheel side of the case. Light oil on the bearing and crank stub.
Using Stihl's ZS tool, screw it on the crank and just pull the crank though the bearing. Real easy... you can easily make this tool in its simplest form - the puller.
Put the clutch side tool on the crank, secure to the bar studs and pull it onto the crank a little. Insert the gasket and put a few screw into the case to hold the gasket in place. Continue tightening until the case it almost closed, then insert the case pins. These pin are very important - they were used to register the case when machined, and are needed to keep it all perfectly aligned. Put in all the case screws and tighten in a cross pattern.
Trim the gasket.. It needs to be flush at the cylinder base and under the muffler. A foil shield will be placed over the case under the muffler.
Now.... the important part. The crank will not be centered and/or may not spin freely. It needs to be "adjusted" so it it centered in the case AND spins freely - i.e. the bearings are centered in their races. The bearings are radial deep groove types with C3 clearances (more than "normal") that result in several thou axial movement between the inner and outer races. Biasing the bearings hard to one side or the other will reduce their life considerably.
I use a combination of tapping on the end with a POLY hammer, and pulling of the crank with the Stihl tool. It takes a couple of minutes, but when done, you can be assured the bearings are free and the crank is correctly displaced. If you put the seals in BEFORE this step, it's real hard to tell if the drag is from the seals or the bearings.
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joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Very nice work!
I have a soft spot in my heart for 064s. And a sore left hand and for arm from cranking them.
I have a soft spot in my heart for 064s. And a sore left hand and for arm from cranking them.
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Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Seals...
Dead easy....
Grease the lips. Insert over the flywheel side, and use the correct size deep socket to tap it in. MOST Stihl flywheel side seals are set just a little less than the rim of the mag, BUT, the EARLY 064 is an exception. The flywheel nose protrudes way down into the case and the seal is set much deeper than expected. Too deep, and it will rub on the bearing (bad); too shallow, and it will be rubbed by the flywheel (bad). There is a tech note telling you the "right" depth. I used the flywheel to press it in the final distance, then used the socket a little more...
And the clutch side.. Dead easy on the 064 - grease the lips and just tap it in flush with the bearing top. The crank step doesn't get in the way either so you don't need a cover sleeve to get the seal on. BTW.. that is not the correct stihl tool... a big socket upside down would work fine.
Rings, cylinder etc next... hmmm... might put a new piston and cylinder on.. Just becaue I have one..
Dead easy....
Grease the lips. Insert over the flywheel side, and use the correct size deep socket to tap it in. MOST Stihl flywheel side seals are set just a little less than the rim of the mag, BUT, the EARLY 064 is an exception. The flywheel nose protrudes way down into the case and the seal is set much deeper than expected. Too deep, and it will rub on the bearing (bad); too shallow, and it will be rubbed by the flywheel (bad). There is a tech note telling you the "right" depth. I used the flywheel to press it in the final distance, then used the socket a little more...
And the clutch side.. Dead easy on the 064 - grease the lips and just tap it in flush with the bearing top. The crank step doesn't get in the way either so you don't need a cover sleeve to get the seal on. BTW.. that is not the correct stihl tool... a big socket upside down would work fine.
Rings, cylinder etc next... hmmm... might put a new piston and cylinder on.. Just becaue I have one..
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joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Why are the piston, rod and crank black?
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
It's the camera operator. Choose either to over expose the white or underexpose the gray... Sure, a little carbon on top of the piston, and a smear on the side, but quite normal. I took the rings out to clean the grooves and to check their wear.
The wear is found by inserting the rings in the bottom of the cylinder and measuring the ring gap. The top ring has 17 thou, the bottom 14. New they would be 3-6 thou. What does that mean for compression? Probably down to 150 or so. Fine for a mid-life saw, but... I'm in rebuild mode so I'll probably replace them. The piston is excellent, but I might put a new one in anyhow and use the old in another saw. yep - the Snelling variation of the sickness is contagious.
The wear is found by inserting the rings in the bottom of the cylinder and measuring the ring gap. The top ring has 17 thou, the bottom 14. New they would be 3-6 thou. What does that mean for compression? Probably down to 150 or so. Fine for a mid-life saw, but... I'm in rebuild mode so I'll probably replace them. The piston is excellent, but I might put a new one in anyhow and use the old in another saw. yep - the Snelling variation of the sickness is contagious.
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Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Very nice work!
I have a soft spot in my heart for 064s. And a sore left hand and for arm from cranking them.
You crank with your left arm? :greenchainsaw:
yes, I know all about 064 recoil "kicks".
An Elastostart ,or the later 066 ignition help a lot (retards timing on starting).
spacemule
The Peanut Gallery
So, a retarded Stihl is the best?
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
only when starting
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah I drop start those old bastages. Grip the tail handle and work the throttle with right hand, pull start cord with left. When it spit back sometimes it would feel like it pulled the middle and ring finger out by the roots.
Of course I had to pull the base gasket and get the piston domed.
How about an Elastostart AND an 066 ignition.
spacemule
The Peanut Gallery
Has anyone else ever gripped the starter handles around the rope, with the T part of the handle resting by the pinky finger? Can also rap the cord around your hand. Seems to me to be a more secure grip.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
you'll only do that once on an 064
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sounds like a real pos.
An 064 hapens to be one of my favorite POS saws ever.
