Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Done for tonight. Got to go sking tomorrow, so there will be a day or two of pause...
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064.. postmortum
- Thread starter Lakeside53
- Start date
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Andy, great shots of how to do it with the proper tools. Have a great time skiing. I'm jealous. I haven't skied in probably 10 years.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
I'm grumpy... and back already. Crawled up the mountain a blizzard...3 feet of new snow in two days, 18 inches more expected today... drove right to the front of the parking lot.. Hey... we're going to get FIRST TRACKS, and...
NO POWER
NO POWER
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Trigger-Time
Addicted to ArboristSite
More time for the 064 :monkey:
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
Andy...you got cashed out...
Sorry Lake, it was a setup from the AS folks.
"Noblesse oblige"
While you are at it, just have a look at my 041 ignition question ....
thanks
sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
can you post a pic of the clutch side tool that pulls the crank into the case? an how does the flywheel side tool work? great thread!!
KMB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Both the clutch side and flywheel side tool are very simple in execution, but become more complex in design because they cover all Stihl models.
The flywheel side is simply a big disk with (as you can see) a lot of holes drilled in it. These holes correspond to crank case bolts location - two disks cover all stihl models. The big threaded bolt is used to either PULL the crank though (a coupler - stihl calles these "screw sleeve" - threads onto the crank and then the bolt) or PUSH the crank out (insert bolts though the holes into the case. There is some simple trickyness - Stihl uses left hand threads on the big bolts so the coupler stays attaches to the crank when you turn it. Several couplers cover all Stihl cranks.
The clutch side tool bolts to the bar studs and either pushes the crank out of the case, or pulls with a coupler. Again, left threads on the main bolt.
Note the ball bearing inserted into the pusher bolt - stops galling of the bolt or crank.
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SawTroll
Information Collector
This is a cool tread, remember to give Andy some well deserved rep!!!!
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sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
ahh...pulling in the crank!!! hmmm....i wonder if i can get the couplers that screw onto the crank for the clutch side...wouldn't be hard to make really
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
I had to wait for my new piston to arrive, so time for some misc work.
Clutch...
Check everything very carefully. Springs that show wear on one side or signs of overheating should be replaced. Check the keepers for cracks, thinning, or, as you can see in the picture, parts of the keepers missing. The central spider wears on the arms and the threaded hubs can crack. Shoes also wear on the inside where they slide on the spider arms, and the springs eventually elongate the attachment holes. Some wear is acceptable, but if the clutch with new springs feel loose, time for new parts or and entire clutch.
In my case, all I needed was another keeper.
Wiring:
I peeled back the old heat broken shrink on the two wires going to the coil. Hmmm..
The black wire is the wire you short to gound to kill the spark. I bet this saw was acting up! Interesting that only the back wire was affected.
New wire and protective heat shrink reapplied. The terminals are metric - you cannot get them in the local hardware store so either buy them from Stihl or, as it did, solder the old crimp terminals onto the wires. Use plated copper wire (looks silver) - multistranded copper wire will quickley turn back and break.
Carb: The WY carb has TWO different pump diaphragms. See the difference? The one on the left was wrong. . Mount the wrong one and gas pours out of the bottom of the carb. Guess how I know that!
New piston mounted, buffers, oil pump, clutch, tensioner... ready for cylinder. So.. for the observant... What's wrong in this picture???
Clutch...
Check everything very carefully. Springs that show wear on one side or signs of overheating should be replaced. Check the keepers for cracks, thinning, or, as you can see in the picture, parts of the keepers missing. The central spider wears on the arms and the threaded hubs can crack. Shoes also wear on the inside where they slide on the spider arms, and the springs eventually elongate the attachment holes. Some wear is acceptable, but if the clutch with new springs feel loose, time for new parts or and entire clutch.
In my case, all I needed was another keeper.
Wiring:
I peeled back the old heat broken shrink on the two wires going to the coil. Hmmm..
The black wire is the wire you short to gound to kill the spark. I bet this saw was acting up! Interesting that only the back wire was affected.
New wire and protective heat shrink reapplied. The terminals are metric - you cannot get them in the local hardware store so either buy them from Stihl or, as it did, solder the old crimp terminals onto the wires. Use plated copper wire (looks silver) - multistranded copper wire will quickley turn back and break.
Carb: The WY carb has TWO different pump diaphragms. See the difference? The one on the left was wrong. . Mount the wrong one and gas pours out of the bottom of the carb. Guess how I know that!
New piston mounted, buffers, oil pump, clutch, tensioner... ready for cylinder. So.. for the observant... What's wrong in this picture???
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Bowtie
Gearhead
Piston rings not centered?.....lol
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Decided to put a new OEM Piston and Cylidner on this saw. I'll never recoup that added value, but I can use the other great cylinder and piston on another 064 that needs a top end.
I checked the new Stihl rings in the new bore... 11 thou end gap... more than I previously thought. It indicates that my old rings weren't too badly won after all.
The coated steel gasket is placed "bump" up on the crankcase.
Lightly lubed cylinder going on. A slotted wooden black supports the piston in this process. Torque the cylinder screws to 9-10ft lb.
Attach the boot to the cylinder and tighten the clamp (oriented so you can still access the screw slot later!). The tab on the bottom of the boot lines up with the seam on the cylinder. Get it offset even a little and the boot will not sit correctly in the tank, and leak air.
Slide the tank partially into place. Thread the wires though the grommet, and attach the impulse line. Wrap some thin string around the boot and pass the ends though the intake hole in the tank. Pull the string and the boot will pop into the tank. Don't push it with a screwdriver!
CRAP! time to take off the the buffer with the two screws and mount it the correct way around (BOWTIE... not the rings...).
Put the buffer screws in, snap in the holders, and make sure the boot sits exactly in position with no distortion. Insert the carb retaining ring.
Mount carb, linkages and check the operation of the master control lever, throttle and choke.
I checked the new Stihl rings in the new bore... 11 thou end gap... more than I previously thought. It indicates that my old rings weren't too badly won after all.
The coated steel gasket is placed "bump" up on the crankcase.
Lightly lubed cylinder going on. A slotted wooden black supports the piston in this process. Torque the cylinder screws to 9-10ft lb.
Attach the boot to the cylinder and tighten the clamp (oriented so you can still access the screw slot later!). The tab on the bottom of the boot lines up with the seam on the cylinder. Get it offset even a little and the boot will not sit correctly in the tank, and leak air.
Slide the tank partially into place. Thread the wires though the grommet, and attach the impulse line. Wrap some thin string around the boot and pass the ends though the intake hole in the tank. Pull the string and the boot will pop into the tank. Don't push it with a screwdriver!
CRAP! time to take off the the buffer with the two screws and mount it the correct way around (BOWTIE... not the rings...).
Put the buffer screws in, snap in the holders, and make sure the boot sits exactly in position with no distortion. Insert the carb retaining ring.
Mount carb, linkages and check the operation of the master control lever, throttle and choke.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Brake handle and brake parts - using the factory tool to attach the spring.
Rope in the piston, Torque the clutch and flywheel. Then gap the coil to 0. 008-10. Use blue loctite on the coil screws. Note there are TWO flywheel key positions for the early 064. One is for the Prufex ignitions; the other is for the Bosch. Get it wrong and the saw with either not run or bite you bad. The tech notes talk about "P" and "B" lables -many flywheels have none, and for those refer back to the orginal service manual.
Mount the muffler, remaining covers, handle etc..
Ready for gas and oil...
Rope in the piston, Torque the clutch and flywheel. Then gap the coil to 0. 008-10. Use blue loctite on the coil screws. Note there are TWO flywheel key positions for the early 064. One is for the Prufex ignitions; the other is for the Bosch. Get it wrong and the saw with either not run or bite you bad. The tech notes talk about "P" and "B" lables -many flywheels have none, and for those refer back to the orginal service manual.
Mount the muffler, remaining covers, handle etc..
Ready for gas and oil...
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Bowtie
Gearhead
Very Nice!!! 
You know I want it...but can I afford it?
You know I want it...but can I afford it?
huskydave
Addicted to ArboristSite
I like the string around the intake boot thats the way to do it. I think your missing the circlip in the piston boss.
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joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice, very nice.
Thanks for taking the time to post all the photos and step by step instructions. It's too mucky to get into the woods for a few weeks, so maybe its time for a project saw for myself.
Dok
Dok
