064 repair project

[MattG]

Hi Guys

While you were all asleep I took off the jug. Yup I cleaned it really good first. I'm a little bit pedantic like that!

I've put it back now with the new gasket.... (crimped face up) it's all torqued down and stuff. The highlights being putting the snap ring back in the piston, and of course dropping on the barrel.

I didn't have new rings - but then again the piston jug and rings look really nice. I dunno what the history is with saw....

Still get cant it to pressurise, but it aint the new base... yes it's my stupid intake block! Yes I'm gonna revisit this bigtime!

Matt

 

[MattG]

Here's my home made seal puller. It's super high tech and took me all day to make...lolView attachment 467341View attachment 467342
It's super easy to use. Just jam it between the crank and the seal till it touches the inner bearing race, give it a bit of a turn so the hook is under the metal flange of the seal and simply pry back. For real stubborn seals sometime I have to do this in a couple different places around the seal. So far it's worked on every seal I've had to replace.

I gotta to say I like that!

Tell me CFB How wide in mm is the flat end?

i.e. the bit you filed - before you filed it - I prob make myself one!!!!

 

[MattG]

i have the double ended puller but it wont take off the new ones like the 361 362 and so on i usually use a center punch and hammer on those doesnt do any damage or ruin the threads

I have to say that when my flywheel did come off (it was really nasty) you could tell why it was so bad....

there's like light corrosion on the crank taper - so of course that's why it had got really stuck... almost chemically bonded, you know...

that's why I think this kinda job can be very awkward on an old saw.

 

[dall]

on the older models the puller works great screw it onto the flywheel and tighten the bolt with a wrench and pops right off

 

[bigbadbob]

Here's my home made seal puller. It's super high tech and took me all day to make...lo
It's super easy to use. Just jam it between the crank and the seal till it touches the inner bearing race, give it a bit of a turn so the hook is under the metal flange of the seal and simply pry back. For real stubborn seals sometime I have to do this in a couple different places around the seal. So far it's worked on every seal I've had to replace.

You might have a hard time getting that into the flywheel side seal,,,and doing any crank damage,,
BBB

 

[Canadian farm boy]

I gotta to say I like that!

Tell me CFB How wide in mm is the flat end?

i.e. the bit you filed - before you filed it - I prob make myself one!!!!

The blade measures 5mm across or 3/16".

 

[Canadian farm boy]

You might have a hard time getting that into the flywheel side seal,,,and doing any crank damage,,
BBB

So far I haven't seen any sort of damage done to the crank. I think because the rubber lip of the seal is softer then the crank it distorts the rubber before scratching the crank. I've used it on both pto and flywheel side seals. The flywheel side is a tight fit but it does seem to work at least on the ones I've done. Maybe on a saw with a real small crank I would have to make a smaller puller to work on the flywheel side. So far I've used this seal puller on both sides of my 066 and my ms260.

 

[MattG]

So far I haven't seen any sort of damage done to the crank. I think because the rubber lip of the seal is softer then the crank it distorts the rubber before scratching the crank. I've used it on both pto and flywheel side seals. The flywheel side is a tight fit but it does seem to work at least on the ones I've done. Maybe on a saw with a real small crank I would have to make a smaller puller to work on the flywheel side. So far I've used this seal puller on both sides of my 066 and my ms260.

Yeah, you'd need a smaller one for the flywheel side of a 064. There's a very scary 3.25 mm of outer seal between crank and case-bore according to my maths!!

Still, it's really nice trick there, CFB...

 

[MattG]

Well I've had enough of playing with that saw for today. Hoping that my base gasket work was all good - should be.

I'm gonna try a method for intake block which Lone Wolf from AS uses - take an old intake boot and block it with silicone sealant. If I still have no joy I'll do what Mad Professor suggests and try it with the carb as block with rubber between. I originally took the handle and stuff off cos I wasn't sure if I wasn't leaking around the boot and impulse hose, and at the time I could not see a thing what with all that stuff there....

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Yeah, you'd need a smaller one for the flywheel side of a 064. There's a very scary 3.25 mm of outer seal between crank and case-bore according to my maths!!

Still, it's really nice trick there, CFB...

When you put the puller in put the flat edge of the blade against the crank. You may need to start the pointed corner of the hook first. Bring the handle of the puller up to a vertical/parallel position with the crank. Now twist the puller till the hook is just under the metal flange of the seal and pull back on the puller handle so as to force the puller hook to come up under the metal flag of the seal. Keep pulling and the seal should pop right out. For real stubborn seals you might have to do this in a couple different places around the seal. I hope this helps. It's kinda hard to describe

 

[MattG]

....It's kinda hard to describe

Don't worry I get it!

Thanks again for the tip

 

[Whiskers]

Duct tape under the intake boot works just fine for pressure testing.

 

[Mad Professor]

Why not some new Caber rings? I'd even spring for OEM if I was keeping the saw.

BTW, have Stihl rings come down in price like their piston assy?

I will be doing my early 064 (hard to find coil) soon. Have NOS OEM piston/cyl but not sure if it will just need rings. Ex side of piston still has machine marks and no scores. Will invest in a seal puller. I am lucky as prior owner upgraded to the HD air filter. Might put a refurbised 28" Es bar on it. Will only be used on larger hardwoods as my 038Ms take care of my 25" bars.

Sorry left coasters. We have some big hardwoods but can't match your softwoods.

 

[MattG]

Duct tape under the intake boot works just fine for pressure testing.

Might try that with the new boot if in desperation. But the old boot has already had it's mouth filled with silicone!

 

[Whiskers]

Yep, they'll do the same thing. I just gravitate toward the simplest method.

 

[MattG]

Well fellas,

Some good news. I got the saw properly blocked off, this time using an old boot filled with silicone on the intake and a steel plate + rubber blocking the exhaust and yippee! she passed the pressure+vac tests. I made sure to wobble and rotate the crank around and all was good so it seems that in this saw's case the seals stood the test of time, but it was the base gasket that blew out.

So, hopefully, it's just a case of slowly putting it back together.

later
Matt

 

[bigbadbob]

Nice to see you getting ahead of that saw!!!
BBB

 

[MattG]

Nice to see you getting ahead of that saw!!!
BBB

Yup, it's good to start putting bits back on it... it's certainly harder to lose parts when they are back on the saw!

 

[KG441c]

Well I've had enough of playing with that saw for today. Hoping that my base gasket work was all good - should be.

I'm gonna try a method for intake block which Lone Wolf from AS uses - take an old intake boot and block it with silicone sealant. If I still have no joy I'll do what Mad Professor suggests and try it with the carb as block with rubber between. I originally took the handle and stuff off cos I wasn't sure if I wasn't leaking around the boot and impulse hose, and at the time I could not see a thing what with all that stuff there....

The rubber gasket between the intake and boot works as well as on the muffler

 

[MattG]

The rubber gasket between the intake and boot works as well as on the muffler

Thanks Keith, Yup there's certainly a few ways... I've got it sealed up nice now... the only leak it had was the base joint. Anyway I'm throwing her back together now