066 bigbore

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fir

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Hey I would like to know what is the best bigbore for the 066. I have had the saw for abit and had a stoke ported then cheeeeep bigbore and then a ported bigbore that I had a learning curve with but that is what this saw is for. I am not going to be changing port timming unless somebody tells me the specs on that I do not have the time with all the work and kids ect.... I work for a tree service and love my saws. Just looking to keep my old hobby going of modding thins to make them faster and funner. I used to work in a auto machine shop. ahhh the good old days.Help from the pros would be sweet and when if wanted I will get lots of falling bucking pict of this old girl being put though her passes.I use a 30" and 36" bar mostly in fir ,cedar,maple,alder,cotton,willow,and some spruce hemlock arbutus. Thanks for any help I can't get this stuff done by any of you pros for I am a poor tree guy.:msp_biggrin:
 
In AM kits the Mako STD bore is the best I've seen. I'm yet to see a BB kit for the 066 that I like.
 
You are certainly in big wood country but why do you want to install a BB aftermarket kit on your saw? An OEM piston and cylinder with just a little port work will make as much and often more power that the BB kits do. There is word out there now that the kits Randy mentioned above is just as good as the OEM sets are. All of the BB kits for the 066 saws have turned out to be less desirable than the fore mentioned sets but will get the saw running again, just don`t expect large gains in power from them.
 
You are certainly in big wood country but why do you want to install a BB aftermarket kit on your saw? An OEM piston and cylinder with just a little port work will make as much and often more power that the BB kits do. There is word out there now that the kits Randy mentioned above is just as good as the OEM sets are. All of the BB kits for the 066 saws have turned out to be less desirable than the fore mentioned sets but will get the saw running again, just don`t expect large gains in power from them.

I wouldn't call them as good as OEM Jerry. They are just a nice AM kit. They have a chrome plated bore, but the timing numbers and port shapes are better than the others I've seen.

To make a really serious runner from the 066/660 we cut the squish quite a bit to lower the exhaust and gain intake timing. Then the transfers have to be raised a lot.
 
I wouldn't call them as good as OEM Jerry. They are just a nice AM kit. They have a chrome plated bore, but the timing numbers and port shapes are better than the others I've seen.

To make a really serious runner from the 066/660 we cut the squish quite a bit to lower the exhaust and gain intake timing. Then the transfers have to be raised a lot.

Do the BB kits that last make as much power as the OEM setup without the squish cut. I have only done 3 066`s and 4 of the 064`s , tried a BB kit on two of them but they didn`t run well but I could get a better running setup from the older 066 cylinders than the BB kits. The newer 660 cylinders exhaust ports are a little high so some compression and volume is being lost on them. That is where I see a squish band cut making a good bit of gain.
 
Do the BB kits that last make as much power as the OEM setup without the squish cut. I have only done 3 066`s and 4 of the 064`s , tried a BB kit on two of them but they didn`t run well but I could get a better running setup from the older 066 cylinders than the BB kits. The newer 660 cylinders exhaust ports are a little high so some compression and volume is being lost on them. That is where I see a squish band cut making a good bit of gain.

I've never ran but one BB kit.......it was really a disappointment power wise. I ended up using the jug on a pipe saw with a 395XP piston.

Since then I've looked over a few......but they either were crappy looking or the timing numbers were terrible.....a few even free ported with a base gasket. There is one I've yet to check over that I'm aware of......I'm hoping to get to give it a look after Sundance.
 
I also found the freeporting on one of the BB kits, I heard this was remedied on later kits. I still have a new unused kit that had the black coating on the cylinder and piston, came with the V grooved rings , I think they freeported as well. If the manufactures keep improving their QC and can get the ports better shaped and finish to look at least decent then they may be a better cheaper alternative to OEM, then there is the metallurgy that will remain questionable.
 
I also found the freeporting on one of the BB kits, I heard this was remedied on later kits. I still have a new unused kit that had the black coating on the cylinder and piston, came with the V grooved rings , I think they freeported as well. If the manufactures keep improving their QC and can get the ports better shaped and finish to look at least decent then they may be a better cheaper alternative to OEM, then there is the metallurgy that will remain questionable.

The piston and rings have always been my biggest concern......but only by trying, and providing feedback to the manufacturers, can we hope to see improvements in these parts. I can remember when AM motocross parts were looked down on.....but vast improvements in those have been made over the years. I'm hoping to see that here as well.
 
I dont know the aftermarket BB brands you guys are talking about but my kit is holding great even after 20 tanks... the compression is 175 (not kidding) woth the stock kit and it will out cut all of my other 066/660's i own that are completley stock. I have no quams about them.

Sent from me to you using my fingers
 
I dont know the aftermarket BB brands you guys are talking about but my kit is holding great even after 20 tanks... the compression is 175 (not kidding) woth the stock kit and it will out cut all of my other 066/660's i own that are completley stock. I have no quams about them.

Sent from me to you using my fingers

What brand is it?
 
Im thinking a NWP? It was the ones Bailey's carried for a while.

Sent from me to you using my fingers

I've had what I think was the latest generation of those kits. I didn't like it at all......but I've heard of several guys that report excellent results. I'll be the first to admit that I ain't seen everything. :msp_wink:
 
I have had that kit for 2 years so probably not the latest generation, and it might break tomorrow but even for a $100 bucks its paid its dues.

Sent from me to you using my fingers
 
Hey I would like to know what is the best bigbore for the 066. I have had the saw for abit and had a stoke ported then cheeeeep bigbore and then a ported bigbore that I had a learning curve with but that is what this saw is for. I am not going to be changing port timming unless somebody tells me the specs on that I do not have the time with all the work and kids ect.... I work for a tree service and love my saws. Just looking to keep my old hobby going of modding thins to make them faster and funner. I used to work in a auto machine shop. ahhh the good old days.Help from the pros would be sweet and when if wanted I will get lots of falling bucking pict of this old girl being put though her passes.I use a 30" and 36" bar mostly in fir ,cedar,maple,alder,cotton,willow,and some spruce hemlock arbutus. Thanks for any help I can't get this stuff done by any of you pros for I am a poor tree guy.:msp_biggrin:

If you want to use it commercially then use OEM parts. If you want an inexpensive P/C for a low use saw or hobby then go with the AM kits. I have one, an older NWP 066BB, it works and has held up fine with the very little use that it has seen compared to my other OEM 066. In terms of power, it is similar to the more recent stock 660s. The kit I used was installed as an entire kit straight out of the box, I cleaned it but that was it.

Most of the BB kits that I have seen that were destroyed hung a ring or lost a ring locator pin. The circle clip does not seem to be as much an issue as it was. Some of the tree service folks started using them a while back simply to resurrect some of the older parts saws, they see the value in them because the P/C will last almost as long as the OEM because the P/C failure is caused by operator error instead of parts wear. If operator error is not an issue then the OEM will be a better value. There is a group that was using them to the point of part failure and the AM to OEM replacement rate was at least three to one, almost always a hung ring or lost locator pin. These AM kits were for Husqvarnas, not the 066 BB.
 
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What brand is it?

That`s the thing, we need to know about the good ones that last. I have seen 4 NWP 066 kits that failed and one good one that is still running cause it got OEM circlips at install. The 4 failed ones were all related to circlip failure, maybe bad circlip metals or could also be poor install technique. I have heard of more than one having issues with ring locator pins coming out allowing rings ends to rotate into ports causing piston and rings to break. Wish we heard about all the good ones out there still running fine but seems all we hear about are the ones that fail.
All of the NWP kits I did get to see had bad port shapes, timing numbers all over the place, off centered molds, too much ragged flash left in ports and uneven squish bands. However they did run and only failed due to mechanical failure. Unless I am the one installing the kits the only ones I get to see or hear about are the ones that failed. Lets hear more about the ones that do last.
 
I have a few AM kits on saws, mostly NWP but only the one NWP BB kit. I have had zero failures but other than the 066BB kit most just do not receive much run time. The BB kit has probably between 20-25 gallons of fuel through it, not much but enough to get the feel of the kit. The weird thing is that the moly coating is not gone, most time that stuff disappears fast, not this time. The break in on that saw was being mounted to a mill and making Red Oak slabs and then flush cutting some stumps, thirsty saw.

Personally I think the biggest weakness is the rings, they never seem to wear remotely evenly and in my opinion they need to be replaced before they wear a smooth spot where the groove used to be. I think they are less stabile in the ring land as well. All 3 of the 460BB kits I saw last year, lost a pin/snagged a ring, ring always had a thin spot.

If there was not such a risk of additional expensive damage to a saw then I might be willing to use inexpensive AM kits more than I am currently but crankcases and cranks get expensive fast.

One more thing that I notice about the BB kit that I have, it consumes a good bit more fuel than the flat top 066 cylinder for the same amount of linier board feet cut. The length of time spent cutting is similar but the amount of fuel consumed is not. Might not be a big deal for some but at $5.00 a gallon for mix it was one more reason why I was not interested in working with more BB kits.
 
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i have one from watsonr sitting on the shelf. Waiting for a reason to change my stock OEM 660 but so far runs well. These tales of disaster have me a little hesitant for now...

waiting for some feedback on these newer kits
 

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