066 hand break issues.

[tg_weaver]

So like 2 weeks ago I dropped a log on it like a dummy...
Guess its better than dropping it on myself. So heres the issue. When the log fell on it it jammed the hand break bar down upon the muffler. Now the hand break needs to go very far to engage. Almost to the same place it did when the log landed on it. So I feel that this needs to be fixed. Any ideas on where to start? Was thinking about replacing the plastic break handle itself as it now is broken on one of the sides. Is it possible that the spring was streached to far? Or maybe the handle cut into the hand break area and now it wont engage until it gets past a certain point? Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks

1st and 2nd picture is the hand break you can see where the heat kinda melted the hand break and it needs to go way far down.

3rd is the whole side. Im wondering if the spring got streched or if the plastic where the lever that hooks to the spring may have been opened up more or something broken some how. Idk if a new hand break would fix that or not?

4th picture that linkage where it hits the black hand break could that maybe stressed or expainded some how?

Has any kne every had this kinda of issue that might be able to hell me out on this?

Thanks

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[Stihldoc]

Its certainly going to need a handguard. I've replaced more than a few over the years! The handguard's achilles heel is the area where it connects to the chainbrake linkage near the clutch. You have to fully remove the handguard to properly inspect it. If it over-travels, its probably damaged at this area. All the other components are very robust- I've never seen a weak spring. The occasional brake band will wear and fail, but the springs never seem to be an issue. Chances are that all it needs is a new handguard.

 

[tg_weaver]

Thats great news.....think I can go aftermarket on a hand gaurd or do I need to go oem?

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[Stihldoc]

I would use only an OEM part for something as critical as a safety device. I'm not willing to entrust my safety to the low bidder to build a part in China. Parts may look the same, but material differences WILL cause performance differences.

 

[tg_weaver]

I would use only an OEM part for something as critical as a safety device. I'm not willing to entrust my safety to the low bidder to build a part in China. Parts may look the same, but material differences WILL cause performance differences.

[emoji28] thanks thats what i was thinking myself.

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[pioneerguy600]

Fit, finish and reliability are very low on AM parts that are moving mechanical or safety related parts on a chainsaw, for those OEM is the only choice for me. That said Meteor pistons and Caber rings are highly touted on here as being close to OEM parts.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Spring looks OK. It appears the end of the brake handle is toast. Replace the handle first. You need a special tool like this one to make sure that you do not lose your sanity while trying to re-attach that spring:


I made this one in my shop. The end holds onto the pin as the spring slides around the back side and drops over the pin. Stihl sells one very similar. Last time I walked into a Stihl repair shop, broken chain brake handles were scattered everywhere.

 

[tg_weaver]

Ordered the new parts today from the big guy dealer. I hate ordering from them cause I want to support the small local shop but they take forever to get the parts in. One such place lost a chainsaw. The other one i had brought my saw in to replace the case gasket and they had it for 6 months. Oh well. New hand break guard is gonna be 50 bucks.....heres hoping the stupid tax im paying will help.me remember to never drop a log on my saw again.

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[Wood Doctor]

Ordered the new parts today from the big guy dealer. I hate ordering from them cause I want to support the small local shop but they take forever to get the parts in. One such place lost a chainsaw. The other one i had brought my saw in to replace the case gasket and they had it for 6 months. Oh well. New hand break guard is gonna be 50 bucks.....here's hoping the stupid tax I'm paying will help me remember to never drop a log on my saw again.

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Dropping a log on one is nothing. You should have seen the MS 661C I just repaired after the owner ran over it with a 12-ton skid loader. Hard to believe, but after $500 in OEM parts and my extensive work, it starts and runs today.

 

[tg_weaver]

Omg. Thats wild. Cant imagine. I know i was sick to my stomach when they told me how much everything was gonna be. Told my wife it was all about 23 bucks for each part....e clip 23 bucks hahaha.....oh well. Next week she will be put back togther and running. I have a 290 or something like that. It was my only saw but I found it was to slow. Bought the 066 red light was so much faster cutting. Went back to the 290 after....it was so slow and it such a cute little saw....think ill let my 12 year old learn on it.

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